Chains and Sprockets

List your chain and sprocket mods in this thread.  

Meanwhile, some tombstone data:

STOCK:
13/43 = 3.31

CHAIN/SPROCKET OPTIONS
110 Link:
12/43 = 3.58
12/46 = 3.83

13/45 = 3.46
13/46 = 3.54
13/47 = 3.62

14/46 = 3.29
14/47 = 3.36

112 Link:
12/47 = 3.92
12/48 = 4.0

13/46 = 3.54
13/47 = 3.62
13/48 = 3.7
13/49 = 3.77
13/50 = 3.85

14/46 = 3.29
14/47 = 3.36
14/48 = 3.42
14/49 = 3.50
14/50 = 3.57

According to Dennis Kirk, here are the REAR sprockets that should fit the WRR/X:

1984 Honda XR250R
1985 Honda XR250R
1986 Honda XR250R
1987 Honda XR250R
1988 Honda XR250R
1989 Honda XR250R

2001 Yamaha WR250F
2002 Yamaha WR250F
2003 Yamaha WR250F
2004 Yamaha WR250F
2005 Yamaha WR250F
2006 Yamaha WR250F
2007 Yamaha WR250F
2008 Yamaha WR250F
2009 Yamaha WR250F

1999 Yamaha WR400F
2000 Yamaha WR400F
2003 Yamaha WR450F
2004 Yamaha WR450F
2005 Yamaha WR450F
2006 Yamaha WR450F

1999 Yamaha YZ125
2000 Yamaha YZ125
2001 Yamaha YZ125
2002 Yamaha YZ125
2003 Yamaha YZ125
2004 Yamaha YZ125
2005 Yamaha YZ125
2006 Yamaha YZ125
2007 Yamaha YZ125

1999 Yamaha YZ250
2000 Yamaha YZ250
2001 Yamaha YZ250
2002 Yamaha YZ250
2003 Yamaha YZ250
2004 Yamaha YZ250
2005 Yamaha YZ250
2006 Yamaha YZ250
2007 Yamaha YZ250
2008 Yamaha YZ250
2009 Yamaha YZ250

2001 Yamaha YZ250F
2002 Yamaha YZ250F
2003 Yamaha YZ250F
2004 Yamaha YZ250F
2005 Yamaha YZ250F
2006 Yamaha YZ250F
2007 Yamaha YZ250F
1999 Yamaha YZ400F
2000 Yamaha YZ426F
2001 Yamaha YZ426F
2002 Yamaha YZ426F
2003 Yamaha YZ450F
2004 Yamaha YZ450F
2005 Yamaha YZ450F
2006 Yamaha YZ450F

Here is a cross-reference (via Dennis Kirk again), of FRONT sprockets that should work on a WRR/X:

1991 KTM 125 EXC
1992 KTM 125 EXC
1993 KTM 125 EXC
1994 KTM 125 EXC
1995 KTM 125 EXC
1996 KTM 125 EXC
1997 KTM 125 EXC
1998 KTM 125 EXC
1999 KTM 125 EXC
2000 KTM 125 EXC
2001 KTM 125 EXC
2002 KTM 125 EXC
2003 KTM 125 EXC
2004 KTM 125 EXC
2005 KTM 125 EXC

1991 KTM 125 MX
1992 KTM 125 MX

1991 KTM 125 SX
1992 KTM 125 SX
1993 KTM 125 SX
1994 KTM 125 SX
1995 KTM 125 SX
1996 KTM 125 SX
1997 KTM 125 SX
1998 KTM 125 SX
1999 KTM 125 SX
2000 KTM 125 SX
2001 KTM 125 SX
2002 KTM 125 SX
2003 KTM 125 SX
2004 KTM 125 SX
2005 KTM 125 SX
2006 KTM 125 SX
2007 KTM 125 SX
2008 KTM 125 SX
2009 KTM 125 SX

2001 Yamaha WR250F
2002 Yamaha WR250F
2003 Yamaha WR250F
2004 Yamaha WR250F
2005 Yamaha WR250F
2006 Yamaha WR250F
2007 Yamaha WR250F
2008 Yamaha WR250F
2009 Yamaha WR250F

2009 Yamaha WR250R
2008 Yamaha WR250X
2009 Yamaha WR250X

2005 Yamaha YZ125
2006 Yamaha YZ125
2007 Yamaha YZ125
2008 Yamaha YZ125
2009 Yamaha YZ125

2001 Yamaha YZ250F
2002 Yamaha YZ250F
2003 Yamaha YZ250F
2004 Yamaha YZ250F
2005 Yamaha YZ250F
2006 Yamaha YZ250F
2007 Yamaha YZ250F
2008 Yamaha YZ250F

I'm running 12-45 and it would just fit with the standard chain but I did add links so I could also still quickly fit back the 13 for longer road rides.

Similar question. I know HF and others went with a 46 t rear and decided against going down in fron. HF sited too many vibes at speed with the 12t front. I also feel that a smaller front causes unneeded stress and adds heat to the chain.

Who has installed a 48 t rear with stock 13 t front? How long of a chain do I need...114 links?
How many links with a 46 rear and stock front? Trying to decided whether to buy a new chain or just add links to stock chain?

I went 13t front and 48t rear and love it. I used a 110 link but I would use a 112 link if I did it again. It is on the tighter side with a 110 but may stretch a tiny bit.

It is the Yamaha WR250F 48t sprocket GYTR. You must buy the tapered bolt set to use with the WRR.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/products/modelscitemdetail/5/66/55/2301/2008/1/7772/0/1/detail.aspx

I can do 70MPH easy with power to pass. I don't know my top speed. This just makes the bike way more fun and easier to drive.
I used to just about slip clutch to start or kill it. It makes you feel like an idiot. But now it just puts me in the power range.

Check out the chain chart on post 1483 on ADVRIDER.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8568611&postcount=1483

I went with a 12/45. I didn't like it. I found myself always hitting the rev limiter in 2nd and 3rd. So I went back to the 13. I like the 48T. How is it on the street?

I'm thinking about doing a 14/48 for daily use, then swap out for a 13 in the rough stuff. Does anybody know of any issues with running a 14 up front? Will the case saver still fit with a 14?

JT Sprocket

Part # 1590.12

Machtig wrote:

I am about to pull the trigger on a front/rear Titanium II sprocket combo from Sidewinder, as well as their 12,000lb tensile strength smart chain. I've read a lot about them, some good, some bad (mostly customer service related). They do appear to be overpriced, but I'll suck it up if the quality is the best.

Does anyone have any experience with these products? I still haven't made a decision on what size sprockets I'm going to go with, but I'll post up when I do, get them installed, and have flogged them appropriately

Well, since no one commented negatively (or at all ) I have offiially pulled the trigger and bought the goods. Goods being defined as a 13 tooth Titanium II front sprocket, 46 tooth Titanium II rear sprocket, 520 series 12k lb tensile strength smart chain, chromolly tapered bolts, and a few spare master links. I'll post pics once the goods arrive. They will recieve their first real test on 05 April when I get my rear end handed to me in my first Hare Scramble.

Well as posted above, I drank the Sidewinder kool-aid and bought the best they offer, 13 tooth front and 46 tooth real Ti II sprockets, Ti moly bolts, 12k lb (stock WRR is 6k lb) Smart chain, their alignment tool, and chain grunge brush.



I will have the verified weights of the stock and Sidewinder parts posted shortly, to see what kind of weight loss these products offer. Standby.

oh yeah! now we are talking

went for it, got the 48 renthal rear and the 13 front with a knew 520 did x-ring chain 112 links, took one out.

the bike is alive and it seems that i am about 8-11 mhr faster on my speedo? using 6th gear a lot more now.




nice blue!

OK, so I finally got the weights of all my new stuff:

• stock '08 rear sprocket------------------------------------------ 30.9 0oz
  
• Sidewinder Ti II rear sprocket, 46 tooth----------------------- 22.6 oz
  
• stock '08 front sprocket----------------------------------------- 4.1 oz
  
• Sidewinder Ti II front sprocket, 13 tooth---------------------- 3.4 oz
  
• stock DID chain, 108 links-------------------------------------- 57.2 oz
  
• Sidewinder Smart chain, 110 links, 12k lb tensile strength-- 61.6 oz
  
• both stock and sidewinder bolts weighed in at--------------- 4.6 oz

Grand total, I lost about 5 oz of unsprung weight with significantly stronger and longer lasting components.

gas_pig70 wrote:

13/46 or 13/48, that is the question. I hope I don't regret going with 13/46 (46 sprocket to be delivered any day).

I went wit the 13/46 and its been great. I do alot of highway and alot off road. I noticed highway riding really takes it out on the chain/ sprockets. after 1 season everything is worn out

Re: removing the front sprocket - how are y'all prying up those *@#! little tabs on the lock nut? I poked around at 'em for a bit with a punch and hammer, and was worried about messing up the threads if I drove the punch in too far.

Thing is, even with a sharp/pointed punch, it just wants to slide across the top of the locking tabs - can't get a bite underneath 'em to pry up properly.. Basically, I just moved the tabs back a little and generally made 'em look crappy . I'm tempted to just leave it as is and unscrew the nut anyway.

Gotta be a better way to lock that nut on there...

BPG wrote:

Re: removing the front sprocket - how are y'all prying up those *@#! little tabs on the lock nut? I poked around at 'em for a bit with a punch and hammer, and was worried about messing up the threads if I drove the punch in too far.

Thing is, even with a sharp/pointed punch, it just wants to slide across the top of the locking tabs - can't get a bite underneath 'em to pry up properly.. Basically, I just moved the tabs back a little and generally made 'em look crappy . I'm tempted to just leave it as is and unscrew the nut anyway.

Gotta be a better way to lock that nut on there...

you have described it exactly as it was for me.i ended up using a small screwdriver and tapped it under the tabs. i also used my 1/2" air impact to remove it.

I'm running the 12/43 and it's been damned good both on and offroad. Can't say I'm getting the hard wear on the chain with this setup. Tibby's Beemer was making sure everything looked good from behind.

dirtytrixx400 wrote:

you have described it exactly as it was for me.i ended up using a small screwdriver and tapped it under the tabs. i also used my 1/2" air impact to remove it.

Well, after probing around with the punch some more, I was able to get the tip of my smallest Craftsman screwdriver in there and pry one tab up a bit.. Then I pried just a weeee bit more and broke the tip off - in the damn slot.



Then I did what I probably should have done in the first place - put an iron pipe through the rear wheel spokes and over the swingarm, grabbed a 1/2" drive breaker bar about 2 feet long and put a 27mm socket on it, and gave 'er hell. Popped right off...

REALLY liked the 12/43 combo - both on the highway and on trail. Kinda cool to do a mod to a D/S bike that makes BOTH those areas better, instead of one better at the expense of another.

Based on that experience, I think I'll go with a 47 or 48 rear and usually run a 13 front for commuting, general trails, etc. When I know I'll be in some exceptionally steep/rocky/tight terrain, I'll drop to a 12 front.

STOCK:
43/13 = 3.31

43/12 = 3.58 <-- this feels great in most conditions, still a little steep for aggressively rocky/rooted hills.

110 LINK:
46/12 = 3.83
46/13 = 3.53
46/14 = 3.28

112 LINK:
47/12 = 3.92 <-- ought to be able to walk up a wall w/ that ratio!
47/13 = 3.62
47/14 = 3.36

48/12 = 4
48/13 = 3.7
48/14 = 3.42

BPG wrote:

dirtytrixx400 wrote:

you have described it exactly as it was for me.i ended up using a small screwdriver and tapped it under the tabs. i also used my 1/2" air impact to remove it.

Well, after probing around with the punch some more, I was able to get the tip of my smallest Craftsman screwdriver in there and pry one tab up a bit.. Then I pried just a weeee bit more and broke the tip off - in the damn slot.



Then I did what I probably should have done in the first place - put an iron pipe through the rear wheel spokes and over the swingarm, grabbed a 1/2" drive breaker bar about 2 feet long and put a 27mm socket on it, and gave 'er hell. Popped right off...

too funny...broke mine on the second tab doing the same as you...s o b snapped like a #2 pencil..lol

i saved my broken end and gave it and the screwdriver to my wife for her to stop by sears and swap it out for me on her day off....

i totally agree on the 12/43......i think this should have been the ratio from the factory. i think i'm going 13/48 instead of 47,in the slick or tight stuff the lower gears are still just a little too tall.

I've just recently acquired an X, and ordered some dirt wheels for it from Wheeling Cycle, so I'm looking to get a sprocket for the new rear. I was thinking of putting a 43 on it and then a 12 tooth in the front to use with both wheel sets. Problem is I'm having trouble finding a 43. Anybody got a good source?

Jeremy

quick ebay search showed a gytr 43 tooth....

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/Parts-Accessories__wr250r_W0QQ_sacatZ6028?_trksid=p4506.m94.l1196

I finally put on my new chain and sprockets. I'm now running 13/48. The rear sprocket is a Vortex. I used stainless steel M8x1.25x35 bolts from a local bolt supply house.

I've only had one short boot on it as yet but can report that first gear no long requires gentle clutching to start out. I've usually run into the rev limiter in the first three gears. That hasn't changed. The speedometer is now way out to lunch. I think I may actually use 6th gear.

[rant]
The only hard part of job was the F*&%ing lock tabs on the sprocket nut. What screwed up moron devised that piece of sh!t!!!!!! What's wrong with a normal lock-tab washer???? I think I'm going to have to start stocking these stupid weird locking nuts because I can't seem to get them unlocked without mangling them.
[/rant]

I'll post further info after I take it out on the motard track on Monday.

Well I was handed a freebie today... A 49 tooth rear sprocket that will fit a Wrf so it should fit the Wrr. I will run it with a 14th front and keep a 13th in my kit for single track. This will give me a ratio of 3.5 and 3.77 respectively instead of a ratio with a 46/13 combo of 3.54. So I will get ever so slightly better on road and awesome off road just by swapping from 14 to 13 when I need it.

BPG wrote:

Well, after probing around with the punch some more, I was able to get the tip of my smallest Craftsman screwdriver in there and pry one tab up a bit.. Then I pried just a weeee bit more and broke the tip off - in the damn slot.



Then I did what I probably should have done in the first place - put an iron pipe through the rear wheel spokes and over the swingarm, grabbed a 1/2" drive breaker bar about 2 feet long and put a 27mm socket on it, and gave 'er hell. Popped right off...

I really wonder if you have to bend out the indents before loosening the sprocket nut - maybe they're just there to resist accidental loosening during use. Anyways, my riding buddy had the perfect little screwdriver to pry those bad boys up - a small punch just makes a mess. Put the new sprocket on, re-torqued the nut and happily a different part of the "crush collar" lined up with the shaft slots. A couple of whacks with a punch bent it into the slots.

I installed a 12 tooth (43 standard rear), and am quite delighted with the results. Fwiw - I haven't noticed any increase in vibration - maybe it's only noticeable droning along on blacktop.... (when I used to surf, I only noticed my wetsuit chaffing, arms aching, feet and hands freezing when the surf was small - on a big day I was quite comfortable - scared sh*tless, but comfortable nonetheless *grin*)

SteveRed wrote:

...
So I will get ever so slightly better on road and awesome off road just by swapping from 14 to 13 when I need it.

Yup. That's my basic plan with the 48. One day I might get around to getting the 14t.

InTheSticks wrote:

I really wonder if you have to bend out the indents before loosening the sprocket nut - maybe they're just there to resist accidental loosening during use. Anyways, my riding buddy had the perfect little screwdriver to pry those bad boys up
...

I wondered that also, as I bent one of my small screw drivers. I was afraid of damaging the threads on the output shaft though, and those are a real *PAIN* to change.

I've been giving some thought to the idea of a double nut arrangement, but I still have to go out and size up some wrenches to see how that might work.


One thing I have noticed since changing the sprocket and chain is that the 'snatchy' throttle that many (including me) complain of is completely gone. My suspicion is that the throttle issue is a combination of the worn chain and the pseudo cush drive. I don't think it's actually the lower gearing, but actually having a real rear sprocket. I also think that that ring of crap on both sprockets also contributes to premature chain stretch as the chain is not fully seating much of the time.