Tubliss questions

I have read enough that I am pretty much convinced that i want the Tubliss system. However their FAQ doesn't really answer all my questions so:

1. Will this work with the 2010 WRR stock tires/rims?

2. Are there certain tires that work better than others?

3. Anyone install Tubliss and then go back to conventional tubes? If so why?

Flat repair?
I bought a used trials bike with a tubeless tire. The previous owned had a flat and attempted to repairt it. It failed. I proceeded to try and take the tire off. No way was it moving. I did some research online and found you need special equipment. So after talking with my neighbour I used a c clamp, 2X4 and L shaped piece of metal to force the tire of the bead.
I will stick with tubes for a dual sport.

I too am considering tubliss, even considering the cost.
because:
1 - I think a low pressure tire is the most ideal for trail riding...whatever that tire ends up being. So tubliss's rim locking feature sounds appealing, especially higher speed riding.
2 -I think tires are a big factor in performance per buck ...So I should always consider a tire upgrade.
3 -Bling-bling...lower weight, lower pressure...and a perceived lower maintenance...I hope it's true.

Money aside...I'ld try them today.

Had em on my XRR an putting them on my WRR.

ejfranz1 wrote:

Flat repair?
I bought a used trials bike with a tubeless tire. The previous owned had a flat and attempted to repairt it. It failed. I proceeded to try and take the tire off. No way was it moving. I did some research online and found you need special equipment. So after talking with my neighbour I used a c clamp, 2X4 and L shaped piece of metal to force the tire of the bead.
I will stick with tubes for a dual sport.

I've run these on my TE610 for several thousand miles and 3 tires, I didn't use any special tools to break down the tire. Just go the the Tublis website and watch the video on how to replace a tire. If you put a sealant in the tire like Tyreshield you shouldn't get a flat tire, and if you do get a flat you can easily ride on the flat since the Tublis is essentially a rim lock that goes the entire circumference of the tire. I rode over a hundred miles on a flat when I blew out the sidewall in Eastern Oregon.

Anyone having trouble keeping the intertube at or above 100 pounds on the tubliss system? Berwyn

Berwyn Henderson wrote:

Anyone having trouble keeping the intertube at or above 100 pounds on the tubliss system? Berwyn

I had one that had a slow leak, I replaced the valve core and the problem went away.

Berwyn Henderson wrote:

Anyone having trouble keeping the intertube at or above 100 pounds on the tubliss system? Berwyn

I have only been riding on the weekends lately so I only check it once a week at most. It always seems to be about 90 psi regardless of how long it has been sitting. May be a little bit of a pain this spring when I start riding it daily to work, but not much of a bother now. Of course, my guess is that 90 psi is probably just about as good as 100-110 psi.

RattTongue wrote:

Berwyn Henderson wrote:

Anyone having trouble keeping the intertube at or above 100 pounds on the tubliss system? Berwyn

I have only been riding on the weekends lately so I only check it once a week at most. It always seems to be about 90 psi regardless of how long it has been sitting. May be a little bit of a pain this spring when I start riding it daily to work, but not much of a bother now. Of course, my guess is that 90 psi is probably just about as good as 100-110 psi.

The sad fact of the matter is that most tire pressure gauges are off by 10-15 psi when you get up that high anyways... I have two gauges that read 11 psi high and 1 that reads 13psi low at 100 psi on my bicycle. This is when compared to the fancy calibrated, liquid filled, gauge at the office. I'm sure the manufacturer took that into account when they said 100 psi instead of 75-80 :)

ejfranz1 wrote:

Flat repair?
I bought a used trials bike with a tubeless tire. The previous owned had a flat and attempted to repairt it. It failed. I proceeded to try and take the tire off. No way was it moving. I did some research online and found you need special equipment. So after talking with my neighbour I used a c clamp, 2X4 and L shaped piece of metal to force the tire of the bead.
I will stick with tubes for a dual sport.

Sounds like you might be confusing the generic term "tubless" with the product specific term "Tubliss." The Tubliss system uses the same tires and rims as the tube type setup, so there's no reason for the tire to fit any tighter on the rim.

I got the Tubliss on the front and rear. I have to say - I think I really like it. I have to get it on a trail and see how it handles.

Advantages that I have noticed:
1) With running at 15PSI and 110PSI - it feels like everything is softer on the bike Suspension wise. Very comfy.
2) Some people claim that it feels lighter - I can't tell (I bet it does if you ride with a higher pressure in the tires)
3) Running at the lower 15 PSI will allow me to have ultimate traction in any terrian without worrying about pinch flats.
4) Flats on the trails won't be an issue -- just get a cheap walmart plug kit and you can fix the tire in minutes without having to remove the rim/tire.
5) At $100 a piece - it is worth the peace of mind knowing that you won't have to worry about a flat in some God forsaken place.

Disadvantages:
1) Tire pressure -- You have to keep an eye on it before you ride (but then again, you should always be looking at your tire pressure before you ride).
2) Initial Cost -- but I think the cost is worth the peace of mind.
3) Lower Tire Pressure might eat more gas -- It is better to eat more gas than to have face plant time on the trails.

Agree with all your points with a few notes:

Flats on trails are probably *less* of an issue and *most* can probably be plugged. I think some people still run with a spare front tube just in case you get a flat that can't be fixed. Of course I have also read where people have been able to run on a flat tire with the Tubliss system.

One other small disadvantage. I found that it REALLY unbalanced the wheel. In stock form (no rim locks mind you) my wheels didn't need to be balanced. After installing Tubliss I had to put a ton of wheel weights on to get it balanced. BTW, it become clear early on that I would not have enough room on my rim for enough of the adhesive type weights to get my wheel balanced. However, the local Harley dealership here stocks some pretty heavy spoke weights. I was able to put on 3 or 4 of those along with just a few of the adhesive weights for fine tuning.

I totally agree - I will be taking Tubes on my rides too. Biggest fear is with the low pressure the ability to bend a rim on a hard rock impact. I don't know how my mechanic did it but there isn't a balancing issue with the tire (he did add weights). He did highly recommend that I use this system only on Off-Road conditions and I will never be doing over 60 mph with the Tubliss. If I ever went back to road riding with this bike -- I will take it out and put the tubes back in.

What would the concern be with speed on asphault?? I am thinking of converting but I do use the bike for to and from work as well and have a stretch of highway where the speed limit is 100kph, but only for a few minutes. Would that be an issue???

I don't see why street would be a problem. Just make sure you use a road motorcycle puncture stuff instead of slime. Slime says not to exceed 50 mph or something like that. Apparently it get's to hot and starts to solidify.

I'll find out if that's accurate or not when I change tires next time around. My front tube has had a bottle of ATV slime in it for about 6K miles

Yeah, I don't know about highway speeds with this set-up. Then again, I hated taking my WRR on the Highway (hated it) - it is too light - I use my R1 for street riding. Commuting around town on WRR is no problem. I just hear everyone say that the Tubliss should be used off-road (except for trail connects). I mean getting the Tire PSI down to 15psi is awesome for Off-road stuff. let's say you still want to ride on the road -- take it out and throw in a Tube & pressure up and go. If you know you are hitting the trails on the weekend - change it out and put the Tubliss back in. I don't think you can go wrong. I am just going for the 90 dirt/10 street ratio for my WRR. that is what is so great about this bike -- It is probably the most versatile/work horse on the market. Make it the way you want Now if they only made a WR450R... I think it would kill the competition completely. Hell, I would still keep the wr250r for my friends to ride.

I use my bike to commute as well (sometimes I even remember to up my tire pressures from my weekend off road rides). Most are surface streets so my speed is usually under 55mph but I do have a stretch of highway where I am up around 70mph. I don't really worry too much about the Tubliss system on asphalt (I worry a lot more about my 90/10 tires). From what I understand Tubliss can only be officially recommended for off-road use because it is not DOT approved. The only reason it is not DOT approved is because it has not been DOT tested, not necessarily because it can't handle on-road riding. Kinda the difference between a DOT tire and most non DOT tires, one is tested the other is not. I figure if it can handle an off-road trail at 40mph+ it can handle my daily commute, but what do I know. I am not an expert so this is not any kind of recommendation on my part, just sayin'.

I agree -- just keep the air pressure up when on the roads!!! -- anything is better than the standard issued "DEATHWINGS" that came new on the bike. What was Yamaha thinking??? , i guess they knew we would all farkle the crap out these bikes anyway.

There is a good video on the YouTube by a guy that runs a bike shop out West. He's done about 20 videos on products - name starts with S - just look up Tublis On YT. He said he smashed up a couple of RIMS a year before he went with Tubliss - last year rim was fine. I run about 9 LBs. (rear MX51 Dunlop) crazy to run 15 unless you are a Baha type racer. The tire better protects the rim even at low pressure because it keeps the sidewall RIGID and VERTICLE at all times not letting it roll to the side exposing the rim. There is no tube to pinch, one of the main reasons to run high tire pressure. Not rim protection tube protection. On the road? Think about it, do your car tires have tubes? This is better than that, with a flat the tire is still clamped to the rim at every point and like a car tire some punctures don't even let the air out. If the wheels totally come off - the tire AND the bladder go flat you are still right where you would be at 60 mph if you got a small nail in your TUBE alone. Slime solidifying? I did see the speed limitation on their site but I have a 10 year old set Michelins on my Bronco II bike hauler that have 75% of the tread left and are totally cracked on the face. WALMART won't touch them to rotate. I was plagued by slow leaks. I Slimed the heck out of them and the car runs smoothly (well as smooth as an'89 Bronco II can run) at 65.