Burnt my barnett clutch within a month!?!?!?

I've ruined my previous original clutch 2 months ago bike was at (22k - 2009 WRX)
Today, after what I believe was some deterioration felt for the past week, I finally accepted that it happened again. (25k- I know have the bike for a year, bought it with 19k)

No speed or power in high rev even though the engine is screaming.

I ride hard, but not too much and I know what im doing, not a total beginner... sun-friday all I do is 25km-30km a day! work and back that's it!

During the past 2 weeks I've been going to the "track" (it's a parking lot with tires that's what we have here in Israel for now)

If I wheelie it's not often and I know how to work the clutch very well for a wheelie (use to have a sport ATV and wheelie all the time at every gear, not single mechanical issue for 2 years

So how is it possible that during 2 months I was able to destroy 2 clutches ? I'm going crazy here... tomorrow morning first thing, i'm going to the shop. Expecting another huge hole in my pocket which is already leaking :(

In addition to all the crap, it took me 1.5 month to get the barnett due to shipping and customs , now i'll just buy some different brand they got here, it's also an aftermarket of some kind I think it's good (can't remember the name) but still...

Any advice ? How could this happened ? I feel like

How much free play do you have with your clutch lever?

When you replaced your clutch did you change the springs as well?

When you replaced your clutch did you inspect the clutch basket for wear/damage?

How often do you lube your clutch cable?

aaronhall555 wrote:

How much free play do you have with your clutch lever?

When you replaced your clutch did you change the springs as well?

When you replaced your clutch did you inspect the clutch basket for wear/damage?

How often do you lube your clutch cable?

Thanks for replying.

I do have the lever touching the hand guards just a bit, although it has about .5 inch of free play i think, everyone that has looked thought about it, but checked and said the free play is fine.

Yes, I replaced the springs.

The shop replaced it and they didn't say anything about it.

I have never lubed it, was this a big mistake ?

Spark wrote:

aaronhall555 wrote:

How much free play do you have with your clutch lever?

When you replaced your clutch did you change the springs as well?

When you replaced your clutch did you inspect the clutch basket for wear/damage?

How often do you lube your clutch cable?

Thanks for replying.

I do have the lever touching the hand guards just a bit, although it has about .5 inch of free play i think, everyone that has looked thought about it, but checked and said the free play is fine.

Yes, I replaced the springs.

The shop replaced it and they didn't say anything about it.

I have never lubed it, was this a big mistake ?

Double check your clutch lever free play. Here is a little video on how to check/adjust your clutch lever free play(not a WRR/X but same concept).



You should definitely lube your clutch cable. I try to do mine every engine oil change, or at a minimum every other engine oil change. I also do the throttle cables and tube. Here's a video on how to lube your cables(again not a WRR/X but same concept). And instead of using a fancy cable lubing tool, I just us a latex glove with the tip of a finger cut off, put the end of the cable in the tip of the glove and use some electrical tape to seal the tip of the glove to the clutch cable housing, then use a can of lithium grease with a spray straw, stick the spray straw as close to the opening of the clutch cable that's in the glove, try to wrap the glove around the straw as best as you can and hold it there while you spray the lithium grease until you get clean lithium grease coming out of the other end of the cable. Works great for me...



Unfortunately, the damage may have already been done to your new clutch, but you might get lucky if you over looked your free play and have a dry cable.

Another thing to watch out for, since the WRR has a wet clutch, is using motor oil that is not wet clutch friendly like car motor oil or oil that contains Moly. Make sure you are using motorcycle engine oil that is wet clutch friendly.

Sorry if I sound like I'm speaking to a total beginner, but just want to make sure all bases are covered. Hope you get this problem figured out!

So the guy from the shop took a ride and said the clutch is ok and maybe im just "over" the bike, meaning im tearing it apart and it's time to grow with the CC.

Also he said that since the bike did 25k it may be time for an overall: timing, valves etc...

I rode the bike back to work, but it still doesn't feel right.

What should I do? a friend told me to go to another shop, I think I'll do that.


Any thoughts? I love my bike and wouldn't wanna replace it anytime soon :(

Did you replace the steels as well as the fibers with the new clutch ? IMO, you have to replace steels and fibers as a set and it never hurts to replace the springs as well at the same time. My guess is your steels were glazed and/or warped and the new fibers never had a chance to mate properly. As Aaron said, also check your clutch basket for notching.

I never found an aftermarket clutch I liked. Whenever I rebuild a clutch, I only use OEM parts (steels and fibers). However, I will use aftermarket (Barnett) clutch springs if I need something heavier than OEM.

Spark wrote:

Also he said that since the bike did 25k it may be time for an overall: timing, valves etc... (

I would have them check the valve clearances and put in a new OEM clutch (no need to check timing). If it doesn't feel right after that, have them do a quick compression check.

Chrispy1200 wrote:

Did you replace the steels as well as the fibers with the new clutch ? IMO, you have to replace steels and fibers as a set and it never hurts to replace the springs as well at the same time. My guess is your steels were glazed and/or warped and the new fibers never had a chance to mate properly. As Aaron said, also check your clutch basket for notching.

I never found an aftermarket clutch I liked. Whenever I rebuild a clutch, I only use OEM parts (steels and fibers). However, I will use aftermarket (Barnett) clutch springs if I need something heavier than OEM.

I got a full set from Barnett, springs,plates and fibers.

About the OEM, the importer for Yamaha here is so greedy, he changes x3-x4 the amount of OEM parts in the USA, that's why I ordered Barnett from the US.

An OEM clutch kit (springs + plates + fibers) would cost me $1,000 here, an aftermarket would be about $350 (here). So buying OEM here is out of the question, so is waiting for shipment, specially since it's the holidays but mostly cause I want to practice on the track.

I'll have someone else check the bike and the valve clearances as you said. This shop is too pricey and I've had it, I asked how much to install 2 brake lines + fat handle bar (installation only!!) $150 .

NOT easy riding bikes in this shitty country :(

Have you tested the clutch? I've never tried it on a bike but the way I've always done it in cars is to to make sure the brakes can overpower the engine without the clutch breaking loose.

Spark wrote:

I'll have someone else check the bike and the valve clearances as you said. This shop is too pricey and I've had it, I asked how much to install 2 brake lines + fat handle bar (installation only!!) $150 .

NOT easy riding bikes in this shitty country :(

Download the shop manual and spend the money you would on the shop on tools to do it yourself. It's not hard to learn.

I once spent a summer working in northern Israel. It's not that bad a country. Just have to keep the neighbors in check.

Chrispy1200 wrote:

Spark wrote:

I'll have someone else check the bike and the valve clearances as you said. This shop is too pricey and I've had it, I asked how much to install 2 brake lines + fat handle bar (installation only!!) $150 .

NOT easy riding bikes in this shitty country :(

Download the shop manual and spend the money you would on the shop on tools to do it yourself. It's not hard to learn.

I once spent a summer working in northern Israel. It's not that bad a country. Just have to keep the neighbors in check.

I use to be able to do it all by myself, long story short, I now live in the city, small apartment and no time.

So the shop is the only option right now.

Regards to Israel, sure it's a great place for a vacation if you can afford it, but living is tough.

oic0 wrote:

Have you tested the clutch? I've never tried it on a bike but the way I've always done it in cars is to to make sure the brakes can overpower the engine without the clutch breaking loose.

you mean go fast and hit the rear brake hard ?