damned Clutch on this bike. . . (yet another clutch post)

FACTS ABOUT MY ISSUE, AND A LOT OF VENTING ABOUT YAMAHA'S CLUTCH DESIGN:
I love the bike, and I hate the "easy pull" clutch.  Its crap.  That's why people are spending $ on an aftermarket lever to "fix" Yamaha's design screw up.  Guess I'm going to be one of those schmucks to spend extra to fix the Yama-tard's design. 

So, I just bought the bike used earlier this year, 3,000 miles, (and being used to a CORRECTLY DESIGNED clutch) I thought the clutch on my 2008 WRR needed to be replaced.  No biggie, I've replaced clutches on several other bikes. 

So I dropped $100 on an EBC kit and thought I'd be cute with the oil.  Put Rotella T 15w-40 ("JASO MA" rated on the bottle so save the posts about the type of oil).  200 miles later, now its squealing when I engage the clutch.  Its faint, but its there.  I presume its from slipping.  I noticed the clutch feel got a lot better when I first installed the kit, now its back to the very last 1/4 inch for engagement (as apparently designed).  Unreal.

Yes my free play is adjusted per the manual.  I still have adjustment in the cable, so its not completely warn.

I suspect its the oil.  I found posts on the web talking about clutch squeal after synthetic install.  Funny, this was never an issue using Rotella T on my 2001 KLX 300.

To fix, I'm thinking of changing the oil to Motorcycle-specific oil.  If that doesn't cure, has anyone ever roughed up the plates and re-installed them (yes, I know I'm being cheap, but thought I'd ask).

Since I'll likely drop $100 to get an "easy pull" lever to fix the crap feel of this clutch, I'm hoping not to have to drop another $100+ on a kit, or twice that on Yamaha parts to stop the faint squeal. 

Guess I won't be using Rotella T again.

QUESTION:
Anyone use Rotella T and have a squeal? Will just changing oil fix it?  How'd you fix it? 
Did you use aftermarket or stock clutch parts?

Thanks in advance for the input.

Rob in Denver.
2008 WR250R

I've used Rotella T 15w40 in all of my bikes with no issues.  Something else maybe? 

Its not your oil.

EBC clutch kits are not as good as OEM, sometimes the clutch disk are a tiny bit too thin and cause slipping and squealing.

I'd run it untill it slipped noticable then put the OEM clutch plates back in the bike.

If you dont want to buy a 100 dollar clutch lever to fix the tiny fricton zone, pull the actuator arm off the motor and make it 1/2 an inch longer, it will do the exact same thing.
 
You can make the friction zone a little bit bigger and the pull a little easier by redrilling the hole the cable goes into in the stock clutch lever closer to the bars too, I've done this to my bike, it helped a little but not alot.

I've used Rotella T for years on several bikes including the R2 with out problem.  The R2 clutch has a narrow band of engagement which could be improved possibly by a longer lever or positioning so that the fingers grip the very end of the lever.

As for the faint squeal, I don't have it on mine but it may be there just out of my hearing range.  The engine is notoriously noisy which is especially noticeable after fitting a proper bash plate.  Might I suggest using ear plugs so you don't end up like me with poor hearing.

I've turned over 11,000 miles on my 250x with the stock clutch still in her. No signs of any issues to date.
Other than a snapped clutch cable that had to be replaced. 

Why would you think at 3000 miles the clutch plates needed replacement?

I felt the stock clutch lever, clutch lever perch, and the clutch, itself, worked and felt just fine on both my 2008 WR-250R and 2008 WR-250X.
So, I can't say I agree with any of this.

Sometime, when a rider spends time on another bike with a different clutch lever feel and a different engagement point up at the clutch lever, this is the result.

If it is the stock clutch lever and clutch lever perch you don't like, change it.
The ironic thing here is that these parts have been used on many Yamaha models since 1982.

As a side note, it has always been my impression that the No. 1 reason most of the riders who went with an aftermarket clutch lever/perch was the desire to add bling, and the secondary reason (if it was even desired to begin with) was to change the leverage ratio up at the clutch lever.

If you suspect the EBC clutch kit is sub par (and this is something I would automatically do, myself), change it to all stock plates and springs.

Here's something most riders will not do:
Lube your clutch cable from time to time with a thin oil from a spray can like Bel-Ray 6-in-1, and top it off with a drop of lube at the clutch lever pivot and a dab of grease on the barrel-shaped end of the clutch cable.
This is done with one of those cable lube tools available from just about any place that sells motorcycle parts.
You may be amazed at how it improves clutch lever feel and ease of use.

I've been spoiled by hydraulic clutches on other bikes, I rode a gasgas with one for a few years.

The pull is lighter than the wrrs and the friction zone is close to an inch long, making it super easy to slip and controll the bike, untill you ride a bike with a good working clutch you dont know what you are missing.

The wrrs clutch is just like the clutch on my klr... the pulls stiffer than it needs to be and the friction zone is tiny and all the way out on the lever, it works but theres alot of room for improvment. If you have only rode bikes with clutches like this you'd think it was normal, once you get used to it, its not that hard to use its just different. Since I havent been riding any other bikes lately other than the klr which has a very smilar clutch feel, I've kinda forgotten about longer friction zones and got used to clutch levers that are like light switches lol.

43,000 miles on the original clutch, never had an issue when I needed to slip it either.  And I've never felt a need to 'fix' anything on the clutch side of the bike as so far it's been durable, reliable, and predictable.  I went to a shorter lever so it fits inside my hand guards but thats it.  At least 20k of that has been using Rotella 5w40, and for at least 5k I had regular castrol gtx (not MA rated) in the sump.  

I'm thinking you're doing what so many people who are used to older motorcycle do: look at a new motorcycle, see a pile of perceived problems based on what they remember from old bikes, and set out to fix a bunch of stuff that's not really wrong.  This is why we have people installing fuel tuners to 'rejet' the bike before they even get out of break-in, or ripping in to their clutch system without learning to ride the bike yet. You can't simply imagine that after 50 years of producing motorcycles that they finally have gotten everything mostly right and there really isn't much work to do to the machines fresh off the showroom floor other than get the suspension set up for you.

Good to know others have used Rotella.  I used it too on other bikes, no issue.  My clutch now is not slipping noticeably, but has that faint squeal (that makes me think its caused by a bit of slip) when engaged.  I'll pull it apart and look at it.  If it doesn't look burned / damaged, I'll throw it back in and wait till it noticeably slips.  I still have the stock plates with 3800 mi on them, could throw them back in as well.

Skierd, I pulled it apart at 3800 miles b/c it acted like it needed to be replaced.  I've replaced a few clutches and never had a dislike for the feel of a clutch until this bike.  Yamaha should have explained that "easy pull" clutch means it'll throw in a 1/4 inch, and that is normal.

I guess I like and am looking for the longer friction zone.

I'll start messing with the stock lever or lengthen the arm.  Helpful suggestion, thank you.  If I can't get it to feel right, I'll spend the money on the new lever just change the throw. 

I'll likely change the oil anyway and see if the squeal decreases or stops before anything else.  I appreciate the input and will report back.

Rob.