Making my FMF order, do I have it all?

I want to do the Megabomb/Quietcore setup.

I have the Megabomb, the Quietcore muffler, and the programmer in my "cart" ready to go.

What else do I need? I think I need an EXUP thing? Anything else?


Also, does this in any way require a "tuner" or is the FMF programmer plug and play enough so that I can be assured of a good running bike when I get plugged it and the codes entered from here on the site?

Thanks!

The FMF programmer works pretty well. If you do not want to bother with a dyno tune, you can use some of the numbers posted on this site in the FI mapping thread. I used HighFive's numbers but they were still not right for me. I had some hesitation right above idle and had to adjust for that. I also could smell fuel on me after a ride so I leaned out the mixture a bit to fix that.

The EXUP servo can be left in there with the cables removed. I have not bothered to remove and do the bypass yet.

Without the catalytic converter in the stock pipe, you will not need the AIS anymore. An AIS blockoff plate will cover the hole once it is removed.

That is about it. Maybe I am forgetting something.

<"The EXUP servo can be left in there with the cables removed. "

If you remove the servo motor, be sure to get (or make) the full bypass module.
The 10K resistor will let the bike run, but (IMHO) not properly. I tried it both ways and
the full servo feedback makes a difference.

Where do I get those items (servo bypass and AIS block?)

No other parts required guys? I am ready to pull the trigger.

TwilightZone wrote:

<"The EXUP servo can be left in there with the cables removed. "

If you remove the servo motor, be sure to get (or make) the full bypass module.
The 10K resistor will let the bike run, but (IMHO) not properly. I tried it both ways and
the full servo feedback makes a difference.

Could you elaborate on the difference in performance? I'm running the resistor mod and haven't had any complaints.

TwilightZone wrote:

If you remove the servo motor, be sure to get (or make) the full bypass module.
The 10K resistor will let the bike run, but (IMHO) not properly. I tried it both ways and
the full servo feedback makes a difference.

I believe you'll receive quite a bit of negative feedback on that.
Plenty of people here are running a 5 cent resistor without any issues at all.

Spending $60 on something over five cents does not make it better in every case.

Also - you can just leave the servo motor attached without any issues at all. That equals no money spent. Free.

>"Plenty of people here are running a 5 cent resistor without any issues at all."

Well, I tried it both ways (twice in fact so I would be sure).
Frankly I was surprised by the difference.

The bike certainly runs ok with the resistor attached,
but the power comes on a lot differently with the servo motor/or plug attached.
You could feel the difference especially in the bottom end/mid range.

With the resistor in place the power comes on pretty much 'all at once',
I reckon it probably makes the same peak horsepower.

So yeah, I finally spent the $50 on the servo replacement module, figured it would cost me
$20 to buy the little circuit board/plug and fart around with waterproofing it.

If you're on a tight budget, a pack of 10 resistors is like a dollar at radio shack.
Double the ends on the resistor, put it place and seal with silicone.
Or just leave the servo motor in place. For me I wanted to lose a pound from the bike.

Odd, I ran with the servo motor for a week because I was too lazy to hit the store and I didn't have the right resistor in my electrical stash at the house.

I didn't really notice any difference when I swapped the servo out.

As far as I've read the output is purely a diagnostic feedback and isn't used by the ECU. The way your description makes it sound the ECU is using the feedback to control the timing.

I agree with Motokid, why not leave the motor where it is no worries that way, it will work as factory intended if there is actually a power difference in the availiable mods. My .02 is when you have a bike that's just sub 300 pounds, will one pound actually be noticeable? I think not. But, I am not chasing ounces. I am doing mods that will make the bike better, not lighter.

IAmABug wrote:

I agree with Motokid, why not leave the motor where it is no worries that way, it will work as factory intended if there is actually a power difference in the availiable mods. My .02 is when you have a bike that's just sub 300 pounds, will one pound actually be noticeable? I think not. But, I am not chasing ounces. I am doing mods that will make the bike better, not lighter.

I wanted to delete mine to clean up the clutter more than the weight. I'll worry about weight when I get these 6 ton shinkos off and get pilot powers mounted.

sr1 wrote:

Where do I get those items (servo bypass and AIS block?)

No other parts required guys? I am ready to pull the trigger.

For the AIS removal go here to read the walkthrough and at the bottom of the page there is a place where you can order Krabill's AIS removal kit...

For the Servo Bypass you have a few options depending on your budget. You can either make your own by following this guide here. Or you can go for the $20 pre-built unit off ebay found here. Or you could spend the cash and buy the "official" version here.

TwilightZone wrote:

If you remove the servo motor, be sure to get (or make) the full bypass module.
The 10K resistor will let the bike run, but (IMHO) not properly. I tried it both ways and
the full servo feedback makes a difference.

How does a "full bypass" vs "resister" effect performance?

"How does a "full bypass" vs "resister" effect performance?"

Allgedly: The ECU sees several voltages back from the servo valve, corresponding to
the exhaust openings in the pipe. The servo package simply duplicates the servo performance.

For my part, I can well imagine that the ECU might want to know if the exhaust throttling in the pipe was responsive.
Others simply say the ECU doesn't really care about the pipe, and simply providing a resistor in the wire lets the ECU work without an error code.

What I did was swap the servo and the resistor bypass twice.
I rode it for a couple weeks in between swaps. I (my butt) could feel a difference
in the engine performance. I was actually quite surprised... I had hoped that the resistor swap was fine.

All that said... swap them out and see for yourself. Ride for a week or so, then swap back, then try the swaps again.
Post back here and we can see what happens.

What would be neat is for somebody to do dyno runs with the FMF pipe - and resistor, servo unit and servo bypass.
Unfortunately, there is no motocycle dyno within a couple hundred miles of where I live.

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t129-exup-motor-removal#2205


Read the posts by Steveakus.

Look at the pic mtb made.

These are proper servo subs not just ramming a resister in there.

TwilightZone wrote:

"How does a "full bypass" vs "resister" effect performance?"

Allgedly: The ECU sees several voltages back from the servo valve, corresponding to
the exhaust openings in the pipe. The servo package simply duplicates the servo performance.

Can't follow Stevakus - way over my head.

My understanding was the ECU simply needs to believe there is a functioning Servo or it will throw a CEL. Trick it any way you can to avoid the CEL because the Servo is dead anyway. You're saying the ECU does more than that and therefor a "full bypass" results in better engine performance?

I think this was suggested before and there were no takers.

Quote :

I think this was suggested before and there were no takers.

It shouldn't take 5 connections to let the ECU know there is a functioning servo. I think there is some other signal going back to the ECU on those extra wires (position feedback as suggested). I have no idea if that's the case, nor do I know if it would affect performance as suggested, but I don't discount the speculation. I'll bet Steveakus didn't design his circuit without checking some of this out.

I have one of the expensive plugs and wouldn't want to use just a single resistor. (Don't remember which one I bought.) I have also had the butterfly removed from the exhaust pipe and the opening covered over and welded air-tight. And I also have an O2 sensor and a DynoJet PCV/AT setup, so I can't speak to the EXUP-only-removed performance.

I was happy to get all that extra weight off, and yes, my WRR is very responsive when I twist my wrist

Thanks guys!

Arkmage wrote:

Odd, I ran with the servo motor for a week because I was too lazy to hit the store and I didn't have the right resistor in my electrical stash at the house.

I didn't really notice any difference when I swapped the servo out.

As far as I've read the output is purely a diagnostic feedback and isn't used by the ECU. The way your description makes it sound the ECU is using the feedback to control the timing.

+1
When i got my pipe, i also took off all the exup stuff. It caused an error code, but ran fine. A few weeks later, i picked up a resistor, & removed the error light. AFAIK, that is the only function of the resistor. It keeps the light off. Are some people saying the exup has any positive function once the stock pipe is gone? Or is anyone saying that the code thrown by the exup affects other parts of the fuel map?

I don't think it is that complicated. It is just a code thrown to light up the check engine light. I don't see it having any effect on the fuel map or ignition. The exup itself does, if connected to the stock pipe (or the gytr one, iirc), but once you put in a new pipe, the exup is bypassed & is unnecessary. The resistor or module only keeps the cel off.

If there is any evidence or logic to convince otherwise, i'd like to hear it. but butt dynos are notoriously inaccurate.

It also seems that the range of resistance is pretty broad. Shewolf ended up with a 7.5 ohm resistor, not a 7.5k like she thought she had. I've got a 10k in mine, & no cel since putting it in cpl years back.

I sprung for the Graves exup sub. when I did my exhaust... It's a little piece that snaps in like lego and I moved on. Didn't have the extra time or the brains to meddle with Radio Shack resistors. It was the easy, dumb and expensive way. It's kind of liberating to do it that way sometimes.