HID conversion

i just ordered a HID conversion kit for my R from http://www.xenonlink.com/ . I have a kit from these guys in my 07 f150 and they are amazing. i will post up later to let you all know how it goes.

That looks interesting! Did you go with the 6000? How hot does it get in your other bike?

i have 6000k on my truck but i think i want more blue so im goin with 8000. you can always just swap bulbs.

going to install now..........

wow lit on the first try!!!!!!! heres some pics and info
below are the 3 main connections. the bottom left is to the stock headlight plug, middle is the waterproof connection to the ballast, then right is the separate high beam....more on that later.

below is a pic of the bulb in our housing. it is a hid with a halogen high beam. you can get something bi-xenon hid but it has a motor in the back of the bulb. these work fine but they require too much room behind the bulb, more then we have to spare. i have bi-xenon on my F150 and they are awesome. plus i really dislike the high beam pattern on our bike. i always feel more comfy using the reg beam. its also a few bucks cheaper.

below is a pic of the water proof gasket that comes with the kit and out stock gasket. this is my only worry about this system. i need to figure out a way to make this part sealed.

below is how i mounted my balast. to be honest it has adhesive on the back side but its really in there due to pressure. this is the best place i could come up with, with the length of the wires and protecting it.


daves tips:
Buy your xenon hid and halogen kit from http://www.xenonlink.com/ . these are great people to deal with and they stand behind their product. i have this companies kit on my 07 F150 and i love them. i expect no different on my wrr.

Do not buy a bi-xenon kit. i firmly believe it will not fit on our bikes.
Make the switch!

...Night shots to come as soon as its dark here in NY.

night shot in complete dark. the pic does it no justice. i am going to aim it down just a tad. the high beam is good for passing inspection, the hid blows it out of the water. not to mention when you have reg ole halogen yellow compared to 8000k hid, wow, what a diff.

Dude, even still that looks great! What kind of heat does it throw?

SheWolf wrote:

:thumb:Dude, even still that looks great! What kind of heat does it throw?

------after about a 1.5 hour ride, i could easily hold my bare hand to the glass. it was warm but not bad.

update, def aimed it down a bit. my italian heritage was pointing the light a lil high. i went out tonight after re-aiming and didnt get flashed. also two radar traps and nuthin. i love this light set up more and more.

Cool setup, also props to you for being in the CNY! I'm in Syracuse.

tblumer wrote:

Cool setup, also props to you for being in the CNY! I'm in Syracuse.

------thanks man! im busy for the next week but id love to tear up syracuse some night. i got no prob truckin my bike out there for a cuse session.

Can you replace the bulb set if it burns out or how does that work say if your high beam fries or vice-versa?

SheWolf wrote:

Can you replace the bulb set if it burns out or how does that work say if your high beam fries or vice-versa?

----yep, you can just buy the bulb. i think they are $20? they are on the website.

haha, after you have it installed, you wont ever use the high beam. its useless honestly. the only reason i got it cause in NY we need a separate high beam to pass inspection.

eastcoastzigzag wrote:

i have 6000k on my truck but i think i want more blue so im goin with 8000. you can always just swap bulbs.

Has anyone done any subjective testing of the different bulbs or know of any objective testing?

I have a fair amount of academic and practical experience with Kelvin temperatures, Rayleigh and Mei scattering, etc with remote sensing and photography to a much lesser extent. From an academic point of view, moving further to the blue spectrum is going to result in a greater percentage of the light being scattered rather than continuing on its path uninterrupted i.e. more attenuation of the light your headlight is throwing. Which is why the sky is blue and the original lasers were red... and perhaps why the bluer headlights are, the more blinding they are to you when you're meeting a vehicle equipped with them. But I digress.

Anyways with midday light considered to be the brightest and most fully saturated having a Kelvin temperature of something like 5500 if I remember correctly, in the real world are you in fact able to resolve objects further out with a bulb radiating in the 8000 K range rather than around 5500 - 6000?

And if you are... why in the hell did somebody make a fortune selling "blue blocker" sunglasses for several years?

BTW, is this the lighting kit you bought?
http://www.xenonlink.com/H9+HID+Kit/H9-8000K/H9+8000K+Motorcycle+HID+Kit.html

that is the kit i bought.

put it this way, any real life science you know toss it out. anything but 6000k and 8000k hid are worthless. well, unless you want yellow fogs. if you want pure bright, go with the 6000k (this is what i have on my truck) if you want some blue cool factor, 8000k( this is what i have on my wr.)

the worst part is you can take pics all you want but it never reflects the true color. i was into salt fish tanks for a while and i loved 20,000k halide bulbs. the tank looked kinda blue but my pics were all too blue.

either way, 6 or 8000, it blows the stock bulb out of the water about a million feet into the sky. after having HID in my truck and now my bike i dont think i could have a car or bike with out it.

I just scored a sweet deal on a full HID system for my Monster from the bike shop. The parts rep supplier wanted it out of his inventory, they had it at the shop marked down and I couldn't resist. Has both hi and lo beam in full HID. Can't wait to see what it's like in the dark.



The ballast and modulator fit like a gem right on the lower triple.


Has a green light indicating lo beam, and a red indicating hi.


This is just on lo beam!!

Looks amazing! So bright.... Put's Torch's low watt eye to shame...

Yeah... so you bought it in Bern'in.

What's the maker and model on that thing should anyone else decide they want to go that route?

Kimpex supplier. Made by Vacar, H4-3M8000K was what was on the UPC part #. That's all I've got.

Rick, I found this: HID H4

This is what I have, if that helps.

Hey guys, I have to chime in here.
I just did my HID conversion and im a light finatic so here me out.
The best HID kits, which are the smallest HID kits you can buy right now that fit ANYWHERE are from DDMTUNING.com.
I just put a HI/LO 55watt, (not your standard 35 watt kits that everyone sells) in my WR250x, and the ballast (the box part)is 1.7 cm tall! THE 55watt ballast kit is produces 40% more lumens that the 35watt system. The ballast just pumps more power through the bulb to emit a brighter light.
Here is the complete size specs from their site: http://www.ddmtuning.com/content/techtips/ddm3555wballastspecs.pdf
Between my brother and i, we have tried all kinds of HID kits and am going with ddm tuning all the way now.

As far as the kelvin temperature. 8k is too blue. You are sacrificing blue color for brightness and you lose alot of visiblilty you would get with a 6000kelvin or lower bulb. If you want the brightest whitest light, the closest thing to daylight is 4500k I personally went with the 55watt 5k kelvin temp bulbs and they are screaming bright =) I want the best and brightest so i am seen at night and so i can see at night myself and this is thee best system you can get, period.

Hope this helps all. I just joined this forum about 10 minutes ago just so i could give my 2 cents on this topic because i am seeing some kits that are for sure inferior to the DDM kits and i love lights. I mounted my ballast right above the headlight on the inside of the headlight housing just like eastcoastzigzag did above but the ballast is way way smaller.

Best thing of all. These kits have lifetime warranties!!!! very very rare in an HID kit.
I paid under 100 bones for my kit. It will be even cheaper if you go with the 35 watt system.

The ballast looks about 1/3rd the size of that first ballast on this thread.

Hope this helps anyone doing HID's in there wr's.

website for HID kit:
ddmtuning.com

-beefquaker

looks like a sweet kit! still madly in love with mine

Bought the DDM Kit. Got it for $50 shipped. Blows my mind the difference in pricing between all these kits. Some are $200 -$250 and this is by the far the cheapest I've seen. From appearances its seems like a high quality kit as well. The ballast is super small.

I got the HI/LO Bixenon 35W and it came with metal casper shield that covers the front and bottom of the bulb. The top is exposed. I like this
setup since it reduces glare. I can look in the headlight and not get blinded, yet it puts out more light than before.

As a note, this kit differs from others as it wires up to the battery and through a relay with a 20amp fuse on the positive terminal—so there is an extra "box"— but that can be tucked underneath the seat. The relay watches over the voltage coming from the battery, especially needed if your charging system is weaker and for smaller bikes.

The kit looks like it was designed for a car, since the h4 plug is really short and I had to splice in longer wires to reach the headlight, no biggie, but you do need some electrical tools - wire cutters, butt splicers, and heat shrink tubing - to make it clean and strong. Theres a additional plug that you dont use at all. Also, it didn't come with instructions, so I had to scour the internet and triangulate to understand it all.

Theres also an socket for another headlight (which you can discard, or cut and tape up).

The kit takes a little modification, but for $50 shipped, its more than worth it.

+1 to DDM tuning. The cheapest kits I've seen so far.
Most of my friends who has bikes, cars, etc. have used DDM tuning. They have a very good rep.
I'll be getting some shortly.