HID conversion

Well, maybe I spoke too soon. I think my ballast took a dump. It warms up for about 10 seconds and then cuts off before it can achieve full power? not sure if its the relay or the ballast? Anyway, hope their service is good.

Jäger wrote:

eastcoastzigzag wrote:

i have 6000k on my truck but i think i want more blue so im goin with 8000. you can always just swap bulbs.

Has anyone done any subjective testing of the different bulbs or know of any objective testing?

I have a fair amount of academic and practical experience with Kelvin temperatures, Rayleigh and Mei scattering, etc with remote sensing and photography to a much lesser extent. From an academic point of view, moving further to the blue spectrum is going to result in a greater percentage of the light being scattered rather than continuing on its path uninterrupted i.e. more attenuation of the light your headlight is throwing. Which is why the sky is blue and the original lasers were red... and perhaps why the bluer headlights are, the more blinding they are to you when you're meeting a vehicle equipped with them. But I digress.

Anyways with midday light considered to be the brightest and most fully saturated having a Kelvin temperature of something like 5500 if I remember correctly, in the real world are you in fact able to resolve objects further out with a bulb radiating in the 8000 K range rather than around 5500 - 6000?

And if you are... why in the hell did somebody make a fortune selling "blue blocker" sunglasses for several years?

BTW, is this the lighting kit you bought?
http://www.xenonlink.com/H9+HID+Kit/H9-8000K/H9+8000K+Motorcycle+HID+Kit.html

Fight the good fight my man. But, unfortunately, seems most people who want a really blue light aren't interested in the science.

beefquaker wrote:

Hey guys, I have to chime in here.
I just did my HID conversion and im a light finatic so here me out.
The best HID kits, which are the smallest HID kits you can buy right now that fit ANYWHERE are from DDMTUNING.com.
I just put a HI/LO 55watt, (not your standard 35 watt kits that everyone sells) in my WR250x, and the ballast (the box part)is 1.7 cm tall! THE 55watt ballast kit is produces 40% more lumens that the 35watt system. The ballast just pumps more power through the bulb to emit a brighter light.
Here is the complete size specs from their site: http://www.ddmtuning.com/content/techtips/ddm3555wballastspecs.pdf
Between my brother and i, we have tried all kinds of HID kits and am going with ddm tuning all the way now.

As far as the kelvin temperature. 8k is too blue. You are sacrificing blue color for brightness and you lose alot of visiblilty you would get with a 6000kelvin or lower bulb. If you want the brightest whitest light, the closest thing to daylight is 4500k I personally went with the 55watt 5k kelvin temp bulbs and they are screaming bright =) I want the best and brightest so i am seen at night and so i can see at night myself and this is thee best system you can get, period.

Hope this helps all. I just joined this forum about 10 minutes ago just so i could give my 2 cents on this topic because i am seeing some kits that are for sure inferior to the DDM kits and i love lights. I mounted my ballast right above the headlight on the inside of the headlight housing just like eastcoastzigzag did above but the ballast is way way smaller.

Best thing of all. These kits have lifetime warranties!!!! very very rare in an HID kit.
I paid under 100 bones for my kit. It will be even cheaper if you go with the 35 watt system.

The ballast looks about 1/3rd the size of that first ballast on this thread.

Hope this helps anyone doing HID's in there wr's.

website for HID kit:
ddmtuning.com

-beefquaker

BQ,

Thanks for the tip!

I went with the DDM Tuning kit for low bucks. Went with the 55 watt in 5000k color. It worked first time and is the perfect neutral white color for me.

SheWolf,

Thanks for the idea on where to stack 2 of the boxes at the front of the lower triple clamp. It worked well! I epoxied a small oak shelf there for the purpose and that keeps it anchored right where I want it and outta sight.

The 3rd box I stuffed back where the AIS solenoid used to be. It's tight, but it fits. Threw in a fillet of RTV to keep the vibes out and keep it anchored down there.

Great system, low bucks!

Artoo
"am not"

Just wanted to update my post and say DDM is the bomb. I've ordered to date 3 kits from them and they all work solidly. Basically, I've ordered only the single lo beam setup as the bi-xenon just adds more weight and complication. The single is all the light I'll ever need. If I need to pass inspection, I slap on my backup enduro headlight for high and low, but to date, never had anyone not pass me because of the single low. They basically never check the high.