How many of you use full synthetic oil?

pbnut wrote:

Ever had oil analysed? I have. 7000 miles on an oil change is realistic. I do it in my truck.

The bike uses so little that it's no big deal to me to change it out before a day at the track, or every 3000 miles, whichever comes first.

Yup, religiously with the oil from my Evo IX track car. I use Blackstone Labs. I'm not saying oil isn't good for 7k miles in certain applications. But debris in your oil is the most common reason for bearing wear and failure, far before the oil ever "breaks down". I'm pointing out that modern motor oil is very similar from one brand to the next aside from a few additives. (This is where Rotella shines, high ZDDP content). It's not like Amsoil or Mobil 1, for example, has some special oil blend that can go twice as long before it "breaks down" compared to a Kragen or Walmart house brand. Yes they offer warranties, but read the fine print, the don't intend to pay out a dime.


I change mine frequently as well. Since it's only ~1.3q. and I do all my own work, it's a no brainier for me.


I didn't mean to start a "my oil is better than your oil" debate. I was just trying to save some of you all some monies

i run full synthetic Royal Purple 10w-30. never had any problems, best stuff out there imo.

I've been using Yamalube 20w50 since I bought the bike and it runs like a champ! Currently just over 5000 miles and I run it hard.

Usually change the oil and filter every oil change too. Definitely nice to have piece of mind

Can you guys running the Rotella please post a picture of the container it comes in?

Thanks.

That's oil that has been engineered specifically for motorcycles?

Same oil for clutch and valve train?

motokid wrote:

That's oil that has been engineered specifically for motorcycles?

Same oil for clutch and valve train?

No, it's designed for diesel engines, but can be used in any engine.

Jaso-MA rating makes it fine for wet clutches. (no friction modifiers)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2647970

It has a high ZDDP content. Which is good for bearing and cylinder wear.

From Shell on T-6:
http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/products_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

I read about Rotella oils on calsci.com, and have used it ever since, in 10 bikes or so counting Wifey's, no issues. I have used the less expensive Rotella T-3 (15-40 dino) on a couple occasions, works fine too. http://www.shell.com/home/content/rotella/products/tpl_pro/

T-3 is even more of a bargain than T-6, but I use T-6 because I prefer full synthetic and the cost difference isn't big.

JASO-MA is all that really counts re: whether an oil is suitable or not; the rest is marketing. Rotella is marketed to heavy trucks and machines, not motorcycles, so must be sold cheaper due to the huge volumes HD trucks require.

The bikes shift well using it, and it's inexpensive, so I'm satisfied.

where is the JASO MA rating on the syn rottela t6 i just bought some and don't see the rating.

Rotella T6 for all the reasons above!

thanks must of had an ADD moment.

Sorry to dig up an old topic here, but I just read the not-so-fine print in my Tenere manual and my new WR-R manual, and it clearly states that oils rated CD or higher (ie diesel oils) must not be used.

I figure this might have something to do with bore glazing issues with plated barrels (as distinct from iron liners).
It's likely that this issue may not raise its ugly face until some time down the track.

Just curious about this, because I have been using an MA, fully synthetic oil in my Tenere since 1000km, and it's just started to use a bit of oil. And yes, the airfilter is clean and the oil + filter changed every 2-3000 km. On the other hand, using the same oil in my 70,000 km TTR250 seems ok, with that bike just starting to use significant amounts of oil, depending on the work it's done.

I won't be risking a diesel-rated oil in the WR, as it will be doing a lot of slow running, which on its own is glazing potential. Which leaves motorcycle-specific oils as the only option that I can see. Not too tragic, then.

Just an aside comment: my dealer told me that Yamaha Australia will not cover any excessive oil consumption (?) in the WR if full synthetic oil is used under 10,000km.

66T wrote:

Sorry to dig up an old topic here, but I just read the not-so-fine print in my Tenere manual and my new WR-R manual, and it clearly states that oils rated CD or higher (ie diesel oils) must not be used.

I figure this might have something to do with bore glazing issues with plated barrels (as distinct from iron liners).
It's likely that this issue may not raise its ugly face until some time down the track.

I've never heard of anyone ever having issues with bore glazing.
I know a lot of people that run syn 5-40 rotella in a bunch of diferent bikes with plated barrels that have hundreds of hours on their motors and have no issues at all.
I run 5-40 syn rotella in my wrr now that it has over a 1000kms on it, its cheaper and easier to get than yamalube, I buy a bunch of filters at the dealer at a time and buy a few jugs of oil when its on sale at canadian tire.

Fair enough. I figure bikes use so little oil that you can overthink the cheap issue. My 250s will be/are work bikes, so they get the best - ie the best according to me at the time.

I run the Yamalube FS 15w50 as i really need the "heavier" 50 grade in the hot tropical weather here in NT. I'd proberly consider the Yamalube semi-synthetic but here in AU it's only available in the 10w40 grade, so possibly a bit light for my conditions.

I started with the factory fill oil, then changed both oil & filter at 500 klm's, then changed again oil & filter at 1000 klm's. Then at approx 1500 klm's i changed oil and filter again but switched to Y/L Semi Syn 10w40. Then from 2000 klm's onwards i changed to the Y/L FS 15W50, again with new genuine filter.

So for my usage i will just change both oil & filter every 6 months, which at present is about 2000 klm intervals. Obviously with the Yamaha service schedule & with the FS oil i could easily double, even tripple the klm's, but for me as a Mechanic, the oil and filter change is a "cheap & easy" frame of mind propersition. ( It's less than $40 cost for oil & genuine filter every 6 months, so all good ).

So 66T, i'd say that after your "bed in / run in" period, your main consideration in regards to correct spec oil will be your range of ambient operating temps. Depending on what your range of temps are, which being in Far north SA could be quite a wide range from freezing to very hot & dry..... Check in the Yamaha service manual as there is a oil spec guide to match to your ambient operating temps, so this may help as a guide to the most suitable oil for your bike. ( Your ideal guide is proberly going to put you in a viscosity range of 5w50, which may rule out the Yamalube Full Synthetic for the very cold start mornings ).

Also i believe a good addition to monitor for any signs of "undue wear" at oil change is a magnetic drain plug, something like as per below link from the Yamaha Aust site.

http://yshop.yamaha-motor.com.au/products/gytr-magnetic-drain-bolt-12mm


Cheers.

I'm with you all the way GT250. I'll end up using fs oil, and probably the Yamalube 15W/50 (which I'm told is made by Motul).

Currently I'm using Shell semi 15W50 in my Tenere, but the reality is that after reading lots of posts on the XT660 forum, bikes with the highest mileages have been run on anything from supermarket 10W/40 dino to fairly ordinary semis. We're talking >150,000km.

But even though the WR-Rs and Xs are different bikes, I have a sneaky feeling that ordinary oil changed often will see these little machines reach 100,000 km easily. Some people at work run fleet oil (ie mineral diesel) in their TTR250s, and almost all the bikes have no problem reaching 70,000km after doing a combination of mustering, droving and water runs.

It's just that I can't bring myself to do it!! Sad, sad oil addict.

If the Yamaha Motor Corp., USA rep can be trusted, I was told a few years ago that a company by the name of Spectrum (not Spectro) does the Yamalube oils (in the USA, at least).

My feelings on oil for these bikes:

Full synthetic, or even a synthetic blend?
Not required.
It's an option if you feel a need for it and/or can afford the price.

I do feel it is much more important to use an oil intended for the engine (not a car oil with funny additives the clutch won't like) and change it regularly, and especially regularly when riding off-road (meaning sooner than if you stay on the street).

Further to the above regarding the Yamalube engine oils....when i spent a few years swinging spanners on marine outboards, i was informed from a very good source that the "Marine" version of Yamaube was blended specifically to suit the Australian conditions. Not sure if this may be the same for the "motorcycle" version, but my FS Y/L oil bottles have the country of Netherlands written on them.

In any case the Yamaha branded oils definately seem to be of a high standard / quality, and i've never had any issues what-so-ever in use for both my own personal Yamaha outboard or motor bikes over the years.

Cheers guys.

I've been running Motul full synthetic. It's $18 / litre and I probably change it too often, but will start stretching it out a little. I ride tight trails mostly, so oil changes are cheap insurance in my opinion.

I think I'm with both the previous replies. I think fs is the go for me.

At what distance did you start using fs, LordEndo? (good name, hope it's not true!).

Rotella T6 in just about all my bikes.