to new for mods?

so just got my 2013 wrr and i haven't even put a 100 miles on it yet and already want to change the gearing. would this affect the break in period? or am i good to go and just start swapping out parts. im about to sell my crf450r to have money to spend on her so throw some mod ideas at me too

I am pretty sure the warranty is pretty fussy.
They warranty the stock bike for intended use...nothing extreme or out of design character.
I'm no lawyer...but know when I need one.

Good luck with patience...'cause a year could bring out a flaw.
Otherwise...it's only money.

Somebody else recently posted on here that if you change your own oil you may void the warranty.

I'd be somewhat shocked if that was the case, but then again, I haven't bought a new motorcycle since about 1990, so things may be that strict.

I would not suspect a sprocket change would be an issue either, but once you do that your speedometer, and to a lesser extent your odometer will be effected and that may be viewed as an issue.

I would surely wait, if I was you, until I'd at least a gone through a couple-a oil changes before I'd start messing with things.

What are you using it for? That'll dictate your choices.

Coming from a CRF450R the WRR is gutless, but its got enough power to make it fun. The power is just up there in the 7-9K rpm range. Trailriding, a 12/47 sprocket will make it alot more fun. Highway will suffer some due to higher revs, but the bike has alot of top end, also you'll be shifting alot more.

12/47 gets you a better trail bike. Keep all the other stuff stock as once you go down that path, it'll add up to be a $8K bike total which I believe is not really a good value proposition. After the first $1-2k of upgrades, you should be good.

Stage I: Most bang for the buck
• Gearing change: 12/47 (trail/city) or 13/47 (highway)
• Righteous Stunt Metal Clutch: For that smooth clutch pull
• Trailtech Endurance II computer: Cause the stock one is so off after the gearing change
• Dunlop D606 tires
• New 7/8 Handlebars (to match your frame, stock steel ones are low and too swept back for my liking)
• DRC tailight: Cause the stock sucks
• AIS Removal
• Exup Motor Removal + Servo Sub
• Drill a hole in the stock exhaust baffle
• Sandman Casesaver
• HID Headlights

Stage II: Pimping it out for Trailriding
• GYTR Radiator Gaurd
• Go Race Suspension Revalve + Springs
• GPR Steering Damper
• Renthal Fatbars (cause steering dampers require Fatbars)
• Zeta Barkbusters
• Zeta Front and Rear Brake Rotor Protection
• Go Race Suspension Revalve

Stage III: Mo Performace, Mo $$$ Problems
• Athena / Thumper Racing Big Bore 290/310
• Yoshimura RS2 exhaust /
• Fuel Programmer
• Blue Anodized Aluminum Bits allover

When its all said and done, your bike will cost about 9K-10K total with Farkles. You'll have to decide if its worth it for you. If you understand the limitations and will spend the money to squeeze all the performance you can go for it. Most people will spend the money and realize they shoulda bought a KTM 350 for that performance.

I ride track and trails and sometimes highway to get there but I can tell with a few small mods it could be a lot more fun.

I love this bike, its a keeper for me. You'll have a lotta fun on it.

kpla51 wrote:

I ride track and trails and sometimes highway to get there but I can tell with a few small mods it could be a lot more fun.

How far off would a 48 tooth throw my speedo off

I think that's going to be my first mod

kpla51 wrote:

How far off would a 48 tooth throw my speedo off

Probably almost 20% in total....assuming stock tire size.

http://www.12oclocklabs.com/page.php?page=sdrd_calc.htm
or this http://www.gearingcommander.com/

kpla51 wrote:

How far off would a 48 tooth throw my speedo off

My 47 tooth made mine 19% off. Easy to fix with a 12 oClock labs speedo corrector. 5 minute install and program. No affiliation on my part. Just a happy customer.

My vote is to leave it alone until the 1,000mi break in is done. The miles will go fast and you will not chance over revving the engine with a 48 tooth.

If anything happens in that time, the bike is totally stock and Yamaha can't say anything.

I had a new Tenere and had a complaint on the rear drive. My service tech called and the first thing the other person said was, "what brand of oil is in the final drive". I had Mobil l and it was GL4, so no problems, but it could have been, if the oil was not spec. My service manager is a cool dude. When the guy asked why I did not use Yamaha brand oil, he said, "because it cost more".

+1. It'll also give you a chance to get to know it before you drop some moneys on it.

japako wrote:

My vote is to leave it alone until the 1,000mi break in is done. The miles will go fast and you will not chance over revving the engine with a 48 tooth.

If anything happens in that time, the bike is totally stock and Yamaha can't say anything.

I had a new Tenere and had a complaint on the rear drive. My service tech called and the first thing the other person said was, "what brand of oil is in the final drive". I had Mobil l and it was GL4, so no problems, but it could have been, if the oil was not spec. My service manager is a cool dude. When the guy asked why I did not use Yamaha brand oil, he said, "because it cost more".

Meh - I've bounced off rev limiter about a million times.
(would not recommend doing during break in period for sure.....just sayin...)

13/48 gearing.

You can't over-rev bike.

Too new for mods? I say never.

Ride hard and prosper.