Stator fried

Hello 4 Play,

What kind of battery do you run?

I am thinking about getting a Lithium.

I'm running a Shorai from a previous bike because it was essentially free. Honestly the OEM lead acid battery has demonstrated much better reliability & when I replace the Lithium I will most likely buy a stock replacement.

4play wrote:

No, the three phase AC inputs from the stator are the three white leads. The DC output from the regulator/rectifier ties into the red & black battery leads just like the stock regulator does. Same 5 wires, just a different type of regulator.

Of course you're quite right. Had a severe geriatric moment, which is easily eradicated from the memory...

Sorry

4play wrote:

There is no plug n play harness that I'm aware of. I ordered the harness in the link for the connectors & soldered/spliced the new connectors

It's not completely P&P, but some of the stuff over at Eastern Beaver will get you started.  I've read somewhere that the FH012/010 Connectors with Leads will work on the SH775.  If you're not familiar with EB, Jim does quality work - highly recommend his stuff.

I've been considering this upgrade for both my WRR and VStrom.

66T wrote:

Hmmm. Annoyed. At 8000km the WR-R's stator has fried, really fried. Don't know why.
I was working - droving sheep - when the bike start cutting out. No engine management light at this point. Eventually the battery drained and the EM light came on.

Problem 1: No stators in the whole of Australia
Problem 2: If there were, they cost $377.00AUD

I ordered one from US. Even with shipping by priority mail, I bought a spare stator, regulator and gasket for about $70.00AUD less than a stator alone would cost me here.

Each day the bike is out of order, it costs me money. I knew I should've taken my old TTR250 along j.i.c. Won't make that mistake again!!!  

Bugga


high revs,low speed and lots of heat?

good to know i should just get one from the USA when i kill mine

Mainly the slow speeds (lack of airflow) and hot weather.

But I think that the stator was faulty from new. The bike has displayed symptoms that I failed to read as charge-related from almost day one. The miracle is that there was enough charge happening to get 400hours out of it before complete failure.

The lessons for me are 1. that stators can still work for some time at a reduced output
2. stators can still pass the static multimeter test when they are rooted
3. the only way to test for a sound stator is to check its actual output with the engine running at the regulator plug.

4play wrote:

Read this:

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8458717

I ordered the CH775 by the Polaris part # the rating is 35A which is plenty for a 350 watt stator. I talked to Roadster cycles & they list a 605 unit that has even higher capacity & an good reliability record. It's bigger & heavier .

IMHO if you don't burn a lot of power with accessories, it's silly to have a stator running wfo all the time making heat at the stator & the stock regulator. A series type actually effectively puts the stator in neutral so you don't waste fuel & make heat when the demand is low.

If you have any doubts about the heat created, remove the splash panel in front of the regulator. Start the bike & let it idle a for a minute or two, long enough to replenish the battery from starting the bike with your hand on the regulator. The less power you burn with lights etc, the more power the stock regulator sends to ground converting that power to heat. Conversely a series type regulator will run the stator & reg cooler cooler at low usage & out out more heat as the usage goes up.

In BARF thread, it states that the 775 R/R has trouble above 10,000rpm. Since the WR goes to 12k, what issues does that present to the R/R? Is it working out, because we don't sit at 12k rpm for long?

This has not been an issue for me. The Only issue I have is the idiot light I installed (from roadster cycles) I specified for a shorai battery & it is set to show over voltage at 15 volts.
I get an occasional alternating orange/green that seems to be totally random as far as RPM. Since I can not adjust the voltage of the regulator, I recommend the standard idiot light. If I ever tach over 10k, I'm probably pretty focused on riding instead of checking out the light

66T wrote:

Mainly the slow speeds (lack of airflow) and hot weather.

But I think that the stator was faulty from new. The bike has displayed symptoms that I failed to read as charge-related from almost day one. The miracle is that there was enough charge happening to get 400hours out of it before complete failure.

The lessons for me are 1. that stators can still work for some time at a reduced output
                                2. stators can still pass the static multimeter test when they are rooted
                                3. the only way to test for a sound stator is to check its actual output with the engine running at the regulator plug.

What should be the voltage output when checking at the regulator plug?