How To - Adjust Valves

Could swear I saw a step by step with photos on "how to" check and re-shim the valves a few years ago. Been doin some searches but coming up empty. Anyone know where to find this?? I remember there were a few tricks in dealing with the chain tensioner. Also not needed to remove the throttle body. But would like to see the details. I have the service manual. But would like some practical guidance before I dive in.

Thanks!

I just went through mine.

Getting the valve cover off is a royal pain in the , and I would just go ahead and remove all that fun stuff to make the job easier from the get go. You can re-use the coolant if you are able to catch it (it has a habit of running along the bottom side of the motor unless you have the bike tilted toward that side, which is opposite the kickstand).

I had to remove ... something with two phillips screws from the top of the throttle body so I could remove my cover without removing the throttle body. Had to move a coolant hose, remove the clutch and throttle cables, move the radiator out of the way. Maybe I was doing it wrong, but holy crap, that was the worst part.

As far as the trick for replacing the tensioner, its suggested that you hold the cam chain down tightly against the sprockets while replacing it (cushion your hand with a rag), because it ratchets out with a lot of force causing the chain to jump a tooth.

Otherwise, everything else was uneventful.
- Remove things to remove valve cover
- remove valve cover and gasket
- check clearances at TDC (the TDC mark is a line, and not the "H" looking mark that is near it. That one took me a while to figure out)
- remove cam cover, then cams (and don't strip a bolt by applying too much torque!)
- measure and replace shims
- install in reverse
- nurse bruised hands from fitting them into places they shouldn't be

Good luck!

Thanks for the response!

brokeagain wrote:

I just went through mine.

Getting the valve cover off is a royal pain in the , and I would just go ahead and remove all that fun stuff to make the job easier from the get go. You can re-use the coolant if you are able to catch it (it has a habit of running along the bottom side of the motor unless you have the bike tilted toward that side, which is opposite the kickstand).

I had to remove ... something with two phillips screws from the top of the throttle body so I could remove my cover without removing the throttle body. Had to move a coolant hose, remove the clutch and throttle cables, move the radiator out of the way. Maybe I was doing it wrong, but holy crap, that was the worst part.

As far as the trick for replacing the tensioner, its suggested that you hold the cam chain down tightly against the sprockets while replacing it (cushion your hand with a rag), because it ratchets out with a lot of force causing the chain to jump a tooth.

Otherwise, everything else was uneventful.
- Remove things to remove valve cover
- remove valve cover and gasket
- check clearances at TDC (the TDC mark is a line, and not the "H" looking mark that is near it. That one took me a while to figure out)
- remove cam cover, then cams (and don't strip a bolt by applying too much torque!)
- measure and replace shims
- install in reverse
- nurse bruised hands from fitting them into places they shouldn't be

Good luck!

Thought i'd join this forum to share my valve clearance experiences.

My Bike

Odometer:


It was (over)due for a valve clearance check if you were to go by the magic numbers in the Yamaha book.
I pulled off lots more than i probably needed to, the space is nice:


A quick note that I removed the cover up through the frame, but upon reassembly could not get it back through. It happens to fit via the radiator side very easily!
Also - don't leave those two loose bolts holding down the rocker cover loose on the top. One could hypothesize they may fall down the timing chain hole.

Clutch and accelerator cables did require replacement:



With the bike at TDC I checked the valve clearances. A bit of a go-no go method with some experience.


Both intake valves had the same clearance at 6 thou, both exhaust valves had the same clearance at 11 thou. Well within factory tolerances.

Overall i'm overly impressed with this bike and its performance so far, may it continue for many years. I had to replace the fuel pump last year around 50,000. I used a CaCycleworks pump, I'm surprised the original one lasted so long.