Oil, oil and more oil

I decided to change the oil ahead of schedule at 60 miles. Why not the factory recommended 600? It's because of these reasons:

a). The dealer or factory overfilled the crankcase so I might as well change the whole thing instead of simply draining part of it, and
b). belief that for the low, low price of under 2 quarts of oil, I will be able to flush out factory machined metallic particles and bits that might be found in a brand new engine.

First off, the color of the oil is somewhat dark golden greenish! For the experts, is this Yamalube or bulk oil from the dealer? Understand that this bike arrived at my dealership in a crate so I really don't know whether the engine was filled at the dealership or at the factory. I used Shell Rotella 15w-40 which is JASO MA certified- as recommended in the user's manual.

I'm now thinking, and should have thought of this beforehand, does anyone know if oil in a brand new engine is actually a "break-in" oil or just regular oil?

I did not replace the filter but purchased a Yamaha oil filter from dealer. Cost me $10. I felt it is such a ripoff because it is so tiny and poorly made! Golly, it is twice as expensive as a Lexus filter!

I will attach photos.

[img][/img]

Why the big pictures of oil filter box?

Personally, I don't believe in changing oil but not filter. Seems insane to me. Change both, or leave both alone. Never one without the other. That's just me though.

Can't answer about what the factory puts in motorcycle.

Last time I bought a brand new motorcycle was 1990. I bought it from a small privately owned Yamaha dealership with an ex-racer as the owner. It was the kind of place where you could walk in, sit down on a bar stool at the counter and talk racing all day while drinking coffee and hearing great stories about how racing was back in the 50's and 60's.

yeah...the Yamaha filter is expensive for it's size. Still lots cheaper than replacing engine parts though.

I was told the engines come with a break-in oil, and should be left in there until the recommended change time.

I waited until 500 miles and there was significantly more metal particles in my oil filter. I think you did it too soon. I would not wait more than 500 or 600 miles to do it again.

BlueAngel wrote:

You know this picture is before installation right?

njbill wrote:

I waited until 500 miles and there was significantly more metal particles in my oil filter. I think you did it too soon. I would not wait more than 500 or 600 miles to do it again.

BlueAngel wrote:

Very interesting, I was just reading about filters. There's a guy on the TT site asking about oil filter differences between model years, he can't figure out which Hiflo to buy. The filter pictured above is for the '09. The '08 lists 5TA instead of 5D3.

Sarah

Edit: Here's a link to Rick's site listing part # changes:

http://www.rickramsey.net/WR250Rmods.htm

Here in the USA, if you try to order a 5TA- oil filter from a Yamaha dealer, you automatically get the newer 5D3- part number (superceedes).
This has been the case since before the WR-250R came out in 2008.
I get a bit of a kick out of those lists showing the different part numbers from 2008 to 2009 to 2010 WR-250Rs because I wouldn't be surprised if half of them superceed back to the 2008 part numbers, too. :)

That glue on the filter has been used on oil filters for yeeeeeeeeeeeeeears.

Yamaha motorcycles come with oil in the engine out of the shipping crate.
I've been told it's just the Japanese equivalent of the Yamalube 10/40 oil sold here and not some kind of "breakin" oil.
If it was way overfilled, I think somebody added more oil when they didn't have to.
If it was just a tiny bit over the full mark, that seems normal enough.

Suggested retail prices of motorcycle parts are typically eye-poppingly high, especially if you are not accustomed to them and/or are more used to dealing with car parts. :)

I thought it looked too clean but the milky liquid had me fooled. I wonder why it is wet.

inspector wrote:

You know this picture is before installation right?

njbill wrote:

I waited until 500 miles and there was significantly more metal particles in my oil filter. I think you did it too soon. I would not wait more than 500 or 600 miles to do it again.

BlueAngel wrote:

Not wet. That's glue. I assume.

motokid wrote:

Not wet. That's glue. I assume.

Yes, that's the glue on a fresh unused oem filter.

I called the dealer today and they said the motor is filled at the factory in Japan. They really don't know if it is a break-in oil or regular oil but "suspects" it is just regular oil.

When I worked at a Honda & Suzuki shop its was regular oil. I put it in myself during machine setup.

Ok, So I am ready to do my first oil change on my WRR (about 500 miles on it). Ok for $5 I can get the standard Yamalube, for $10 I can get the Yamalube semi-synth and for $15 I can get the Yamalube full synthetic. And of course with our bikes taking a little over a quart, you gotta buy 2 quarts. My question is; should I really go with the full synthetic? Of course the guy at the dealership tells me that it will shift smoother and will pass right through neutral easily while shifting with the full synth. I'll probably get the full synth but is there REALLY a difference, especially when I will be changing oil frequently?

I think it's a matter of preference, myself. I used YammiLube to begin with and now use WolfsHead 15/40. The bike seems to like this stuff so far.

On all my past 10 or so bikes i have ran regular oil for the first 6,ooo miles then switched to Semi-synthetic.

Midnite171 wrote:

Ok, So I am ready to do my first oil change on my WRR (about 500 miles on it). Ok for $5 I can get the standard Yamalube, for $10 I can get the Yamalube semi-synth and for $15 I can get the Yamalube full synthetic. And of course with our bikes taking a little over a quart, you gotta buy 2 quarts. My question is; should I really go with the full synthetic? Of course the guy at the dealership tells me that it will shift smoother and will pass right through neutral easily while shifting with the full synth. I'll probably get the full synth but is there REALLY a difference, especially when I will be changing oil frequently?

Uh oh, the old 'what oil?' argument....
Well, I have Motul 5100 10W40 semi; bike runs fine, but I get a little 'stickyness' when engine has been really worked. Block downshifts need a bit of sensitivity as they get a little clunky. Clutch seems fine...
I guess the question is how long you intend to keep your bike, how many miles you plan on, do you race, etc. etc. I am a real n0000b rider, & treat my ride with probably too much respect, so a decent oil from a 'known brand' should suffice. Yamalube mid-range would get my vote.

I thought this was an interesting take on oil:

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/maintenance/93-oilchange

Sarah

greer wrote:

I thought this was an interesting take on oil:

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/maintenance/93-oilchange

Sarah

I just LOOOVE the part about colour coding the oil to the bike Problem is, my X is black - either this means I should use secondhand oil, or use oil from a black container.......

greer wrote:

I thought this was an interesting take on oil:

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/maintenance/93-oilchange

Sarah

Oh, one other thing: BLEEDING...... I know most of you don't seem to care about this, but others think its very important!

I don't care if I bleed as long as it's not an artery. As for the bike..... Just another thing to leak. How many years before they've made engines without this thing and had no troubles. If it makes you feel better to use it, then do so... but not using it isn't gonna kill the bike. Not putting oil in it will.

I refuse to believe that bleeder screw is even remotely important, and more than likely a potential problem if used.

I also refuse to follow the Yamaha recommendation of replacing the oil filter every other oil change.

If I'm changing oil, I'm changing filter. Simple as that.

[quote="mash100"]

Midnite171 wrote:

Well, I have Motul 5100 10W40 semi; bike runs fine, but I get a little 'stickyness' when engine has been really worked. Block downshifts need a bit of sensitivity as they get a little clunky. Clutch seems fine...

I used to run the same Motul 5100. I've switched to Silkolene Super 2 Injector. My bikes have all run smoother.