Oil, oil and more oil

Quote :

I used YammiLube to begin with and now use WolfsHead 15/40.

Hi-jacker incoming: Maybe it's a co-ink-e-dink , but is there some 'Wolf'-like theme throughout this entire site ?

* wondering what 'wolf' thing is next *

About the bleeding I don't know if it has anything to do with the oil jet beneath the piston. If it does, neglecting to do the bleeding could mean shorter engine life.

The filter is so small that I change it every time I change the oil. And if you change the oil often as long as you have the good grade it's ok. It's not the oil that damages the engine, it's what's in suspension in it.

Well, I will go for the full synthetic and replace the filter every time. However, I'm going to have to read up a little bit on the bleeder thingy.

X-Racer wrote:

Quote :

I used YammiLube to begin with and now use WolfsHead 15/40.

Hi-jacker incoming: Maybe it's a co-ink-e-dink , but is there some 'Wolf'-like theme throughout this entire site ?

* wondering what 'wolf' thing is next *

Funny enuf, I was looking for 15/40, and have always been a die hard
Chevron Delo 400 fan. Sadly we can't use it because the moly count is
too high. The truck shop had this stuff, so I wrote in to the
engineering dept and asked about the moly count. I was told that they
don't use it in their oil, and it can be used in JASO applications. It
was quite a bit cheaper than the Rotella, so I grabbed some.

Midnite171 wrote:

Ok, So I am ready to do my first oil change on my WRR (about 500 miles on it). Ok for $5 I can get the standard Yamalube, for $10 I can get the Yamalube semi-synth and for $15 I can get the Yamalube full synthetic. And of course with our bikes taking a little over a quart, you gotta buy 2 quarts. My question is; should I really go with the full synthetic?

I wouldn't want to try and claim a definitive answer. I do know that at $18/gallon at Wallsmart, Rotella 5-40 synthetic is cheap. And, it is a very good oil. For whatever extra it costs me over the less expensive stuff, I'll stick with the Rotella.

I'm also not scared of changing oil really frequently. It's not like the cost of an oil change is wallet crushing...

Call me silly, but in the past I seem to buy the oil that is made by the bike bike I am putting the oil in. Right now, I'm going with the best Yamalube out there.

And question; what's with the bleeder? What is recommended I do with it?

Pretend it's a head bolt and don't bother playing with it. More ppl have had problems with it leaking than the trouble it's worth. They say to loosen it enuf so that air will purge out and then once the oil comes to close it off. Its'a PITA and causes more an unnecessary mess if you don't tighten it enuf, or too much.

The WR got it's first oil and filter change at 50 miles.
Second oil change at 300 and I'm about to change it again at 600 miles. I'll keep 300 mi intervals until the metal flakes subside.

Just out of curiosity you guys use synthetic or Dino?

Dana44 wrote:

The WR got it's first oil and filter change at 50 miles.
Second oil change at 300 and I'm about to change it again at 600 miles. I'll keep 300 mi intervals until the metal flakes subside.

Just out of curiosity you guys use synthetic or Dino?

Dude....it's not a KTM

Is it that obvious my last 3 bikes were KTM's?


I'm still using dino for now, 1/2 case left than I'll switch over to amsoil.

300 mile oil changes is not necessary. It's wasteful.

But hey...it's your time and money.

But you don't need to.

Yamaha says 3000 mile oil changes. Not 300.

I can see why it might seem wasteful to change oil and filters so often during break in.

I'm used to bikes with oversized Wiesco pistons,HotCams,big valves and carbs that absolutely require special break in on a fresh rebuild.
Done properly they can be pushed to redline over and over all day long for years. Inproperly broken in it will lose compression after 1 race.

My break in regiment is definitly not the same as yamahas.


First 10-15 minutes of run time on a new or freshly bored engine are just idle adjustment and warm up to operating temp.
After cool down and inspection for leaks I ride through all the gears at alternating 1/4 to 3/4 throttle for 30-40 minutes then let it cool down again.
3rd run is the fun part where I push it to redline in 3rd, 4th and 5th for short blasts and get it nice and hot. I like to see the exhaust maniflod change color at the first bend. Next is a long cool down ride with a big grin.

Change oil and filter and good to go. This is all within the first 50 miles. The motor is now ready to ride, rings are mated to the cylinder walls and everytning has seen high RPM and pressure without leaking. The transmission may take 1,000 miles or more to fully mesh and stop shedding metal.

Usually retourqe the headbolts and check the timing chain tension and adjust the valves after the redline ride but this is a new bike.

I'm not reccomending folks to go out and redline thier new WR or wifes Jetta, just sharing what I've done to break in my own engines with new pistons.


I use Valvoline 30 weight for the first 3 oil changes then switch to Amsoil 10w40 synthetic. Same regiment KTM's factory race mechanics use.

I ran the Yamalube for the first 3 changes until there were no flakes, now I run a semi 15/40 and the bike seems to like it.

Syntec, semi syntec, mineral?

Also Manual says 10w-30, will it be damaged if i put semi syntec 10w-50 in it?
Bought oil from dealership before i got a hold of the manua and thats what they gave me.

Practically any 4-stroke oil on your dealer's shelf will be OK.
I'm using Yamalube Full-Synthetic 15W-50, myself.

I've used yamalube on every change, I'm running 20w-50 right now. I run 10W-40 when it's cooler.

Generally your advertised mileage and performance is based on using a certain type of oil. Wether it be 20, 30 or 50 wt. that would be the one the manufacturer recomends for service for your vehicle.
What type people perfer to use and what they feel is best is their own choice and it does vary by riding habits and eviroments.
In my WRR I use AMSOIL 10W30 synthetic motorcycle oil. And since I buy it at discount why not, right?
2nd to that is the YAMALUBE 4(20W40).

I'm running Wolf's Head 15/40 semi. Get it bulk and the bike seems to like it.

Shell Rotella 15W40, it was on sale. After that it'll be Shell Rotella 5W40; that was on sale too

One thread on oil <--- clicky

and another <-- clicky

one more <--- clickity

more <--- yep

really - another one? <-- uh huh

There's other threads too...it gets kind confusing since everyone has different opinions and philosophies

It is the lack of searching for an existing thread that has created so many on one subject. I know I am guilty of it myself but I try to search for an existing thread before creating another one.
Any way a moderator can shift all of them back around to one topic?
May help with capacity on the server too.

The search feature doesn't work, or at least it didn't the last time I tried to use it.

Amsoil 10w40 here.

Jersey Devil wrote:

It is the lack of searching for an existing thread that has created so many on one subject. I know I am guilty of it myself but I try to search for an existing thread before creating another one.

Actually, if you type "oil" into the forum's search feature you get no hits.

I asked about it here<---clicky

It appears you may need more than 3 letters for the search feature to work???

That would be the reason, yes. Too general for the search monkey.

Holy crap 9 topics just on oil. Also merged 4 topics on oil filters. Looks like chain cleaning is next.
Thanks for the links Moto, it helped with the merging.
Oil is now a sticky.