Looks like you're getting ready for some fun times!
I ride my 2011 WR250R 90% or more off-road on mountain trails. The other 10% or so is just connecting roads between those trails when necessary. Here's my list of recommended off-road mods, listed in order of importance and or impact on better off-road riding:
1) Bike protection: These bikes basically come naked from the factory. A skid plate, radiator guard, and good quality hand guards are all needed. If at all possible avoid hand guards that attach to the bars with expandable inserts and/or clamps. Better quality guards attach via threaded inserts and brackets on the upper triple clamp or handlebar top clamp. If you ride in rocky country a rear brake disc guard is also a good idea. The Sandman Freedom Case Saver is also a worthy investment.
2) Tires: The stock Bridgestone Trailwing tires are useless at best, and dangerous at worst, when used for aggressive off-road riding. Personally I've had great results with Dunlop D606 DOT-approved knobbies, but there are quite a few other options out there too. I currently run mine at 12 psi pressure, but I don't run rim locks. In the future I'll be installing Tubliss system and running them at 5 psi off-road. You should balance the wheels if you install rim locks or Tubliss and plan to ride at highway speeds too.
3) Gears: Stock 13/43 gearing is too high for any serious trail riding. The biggest issue for me was that 1st gear was too high for tight technical riding at low speed. 13/47 and 13/48 are both popular gearing combinations for folks that ride pavement and dirt. Personally I prefer 13/51, with the option to switch to 14 up front if I ever want to do more pavement riding. (So far that hasn't happened.) You'll also need a longer chain to pair with useful gearing changes.
4) Suspension:The rear shock needs a heavier spring for most riders over 180 lbs., and the dampening is notoriously awful in the dirt. Front fork springs are generally okay, but the dampening is noticeably better with aftermarket valving such as Race Tech Gold Valves. For serious off-road riding I'd rate a rear shock rebuild as "mandatory" and front fork rebuild as "recommended". In the meantime you should immediately tune the stock suspension settings for offroad riding. Here's what worked best for me:
- Increased the rear shock rebound dampening to maximum and left compression dampening at the stock midpoint setting. This helped keep the rear tire hooked up.
- Increased the front shock compression dampening to near maximum to keep the front from diving when hitting rocks and roots.
- Decreased the front shock rebound dampening to lightest setting to get the head back up ASAP after diving.
5) Weight: The WRR is sexy, but it's HEAVY for dirt riding. The WRR will be about 100 lbs. heavier than your previous KTM. You can do some things to lighten it, but the aftermarket add-ons suggested above will likely offset most of those weight reductions. There's a lengthy weight reduction thread on this forum that'll give an idea of what you can and can't achieve in the quest for weight reduction.
6) Engine mods for increased performance: A lot of new WRR owners put this higher on their list but I don't see the point of increasing engine power if the bike isn't otherwise prepared to use it. Personally I'm still running stock intake, exhaust, and EFI fuel mapping.
IMHO this bike will never be anything close to your KTM off-road. I absolutely love my WRR for what it is and have invested major $$$ in mods to protection, gears, suspension, tires, controls, steering stabilizer, and other items. But it's still a 300 lb. 250cc 4-stroke dual-sport. It's well-balanced but hardly nimble or flickable off-road. The extra weight is especially noticeable when hopping obstacles like logs or big rocks, or when you have to pick it up, carry it, or even drag it. (I've been there, and I've done that.) I recently bought a Beta 300 Xtrainer to carry me to the places my WRR can't go.
Enjoy your new bike!