Wire Tap into Switched Power Under Seat - Which Wire and Why

I have been through a number of posts about wiring up accessories to the bike. Interestingly, I have not seen a discussion of the merits of where to tap into the bike and why.

So, you electrical modification gurus...If you are to tap into switched power under the seat on your stock WR250r...

1. Which electrical circuit makes the most sense to tap?
2. Which wire is it? What color matching up to the schematic and what is the color code in the service manual? What circuit number on the service manual?
3. Why do it that way and not another?

I am looking at installing the Eastern Beaver 3 circuit switched myself, but I am surprised I did not seem to find a thread that really talks about where to tap and why. Mostly from what I found, folks have been taping into the brown wire, but they don't really say which circuit and more importantly why they made the choice they did.

Thanks

--Easy

Actually if you look in this thread:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t3512p320-what-did-you-do-to-your-wr-today

You will a post I made about wiring up a distribution block for heated grips, heated gear, etc. I always choose the plate light and not headlight or brake lights because in case there is a short you don't lose an important light that could leave you in a dangerous situation. Worse things with a plate light going out is you might get pulled over.

Thanks Coop.

So you used the blue wire at the bright yellow connector.

You chose that as it is the license plate circuit. On the 2008 Service manual that is circuit 51 and was color code L for Blue.

That is good stuff, but I never would have found it buried in that thread. Your picture is a very clear one too.

That approach makes sense to me. I think I will use my posi tap on that same circuit.

Coop wrote:

Actually if you look in this thread:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t3512p320-what-did-you-do-to-your-wr-today

You will a post I made about wiring up a distribution block for heated grips, heated gear, etc. I always choose the plate light and not headlight or brake lights because in case there is a short you don't lose an important light that could leave you in a dangerous situation. Worse things with a plate light going out is you might get pulled over.

One other question. What process did you use to find the wire and connector? I don't think it is marked. Did you disconnect the suspected connector and note that the plate light went out? Very curious. Thanks.

Yeah I know I like to use that circuit on all my bikes for my wiring so I traced the wires back from the light and using my meter verified I had the right connector.

For the record that wiring diagram isn't mine. I just have been using it for years so I usually post it when people ask about wiring accessories.

fyi, the plate light circuit also includes your tail and brake light, two front position lights and your start relay...pull that 10 amp fuse and see if your bike starts...just be careful with your wiring technique...

The connector I unplugged only operated the plate light? Either way it's been wired since March plus I have done this on at least 6 other bikes. I am careful and thanks for the heads up.

I had the same results as Coop. Verifying that the connector when disconnected only interrupts the power to the license plate light. I tapped into the blue wire between the connector and the license plate light. I used this to trigger the relay on my Eastern Beaver switched 3cs.

It seemed to make sense to me.

Now Fuzzy Wrench, you question the approach, but how would you have done it? Where would you have tapped into switched power and why?

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html

depending on the accessory, I try to tie-in as close as possible (in the circuit) to the battery...the only other choice is the 15 A circuit which has the headlight...not much of a choice...maybe an in line switch is the best...

As an EET I am confident the way I did this is safe and a good way to do it. Also using my set up with the relay, fuse, and terminal strip I am not tying in for each accessory. Only once to a switched power source, then the new accessories tie into the strip. Much cleaner and easier than making connections for individual accessories.