Front sprocket removal, uhhh what?

Having some issues getting the nut off of the front sprocket. I have the bike in first and am holding down the rear brake while attempting to loosen the nut. It is reverse threaded or do I need a much bigger hammer?

It is not reverse threaded.
What I did, with out an impact, was to push the bike where the front wheel was against the brick wall on the outside of my garage. So the bike could not go forward when putting weight into the breaker bar. I also had to use the rear brake to keep the rear wheel from spinning.

What I do every time:

*Make sure that both sides of the nut have the peened over parts unpeened so they will clear the indentations in the shaft and unlock the nut.
*Proper-sized socket.
*18-inch breaker bar.
*Bike is 1st gear.
*Stand on the right-hand side of the bike and step on the rear brake pedal.
*Reach over the bike and loosen the nut by pulling up on the breaker bar.

:)

...and if none of that works, "I" still equals MA < squared > (i.e. a bigger hammer)

what's a peen? serious question, i think...



yes it's dirty and pretty well trashed, no it wasn't by my doing...

The nut has a raised rib on it.
The shaft has two flat areas, 180 degrees apart.
The nut gets tightened down and the rib gets punched down or peened down into the flat areas.
This locks the nut in place so it won't fall off when you ride the bike.

When removing the nut, you have to straighten out the parts of the rib that got peened down.

Your nut looks like it has either already been unpeened or it wasn't peened down to start with, but I can't say for sure from the pic. :)

it wasn't peened where the two grooves are, but was over the threads. Maybe that was old peening. anyhoo, took a much impact wrench to it and got it off. Thanks for the advice.

YZEtc wrote:

The nut has a raised rib on it.
The shaft has two flat areas, 180 degrees apart.
The nut gets tightened down and the rib gets punched down or peened down into the flat areas.
This locks the nut in place so it won't fall off when you ride the bike.

When removing the nut, you have to straighten out the parts of the rib that got peened down.

Your nut looks like it has either already been unpeened or it wasn't peened down to start with, but I can't say for sure from the pic. :)

Just swapped out a front sprockte, but what's the best way to "repeen" ( or as the say in the manual, stake) the nut once its back on. Had a fairly hefty pair of needle nose plyers that fit just right, but still cant generate the force required with these? Tried other various methods that sorta worked, but there has to be a better way?

Thanks!

EDIT: Also, did everybody else's WR250R come with an o-ring chain with no master link. Reading certain sites sounds like maybe others did not, but the manual sure makes it sound standard?

No master link. I didn't re-stake the nut either, just de-greased and added lock-tite.

Sarah

The original chain uses a riveted master link so it looks like all of the other links in the chain, and all WR-250Rs and Xs come like this, as well as practically all street bikes and dual-purpose bikes these days.
If somebody has a chain with a clip master link, it ain't stock.
This is for the best long-term reliability, and if you were ever just riding along and minding your own bussiness and have your drive chain suddenly wad up into a ball in front of the front sprocket, you'll know what I mean. :)

I'll stake that nut down every time because it only has to come loose once. :)

YZEtc wrote:

The original chain uses a riveted master link so it looks like all of the other links in the chain, and all WR-250Rs and Xs come like this, as well as practically all street bikes and dual-purpose bikes these days.
If somebody has a chain with a clip master link, it ain't stock.
This is for the best long-term reliability, and if you were ever just riding along and minding your own bussiness and have your drive chain suddenly wad up into a ball in front of the front sprocket, you'll know what I mean. :)

I'll stake that nut down every time because it only has to come loose once. :)

Thanks YZEtc!

I looked a litle further into those other sites I was reading and it turns out they were not talking about a stock chain, so you were right about that

I don't have any experience with this type of chain, but can that riveted master link be removed easily? I'm guessing not since the manual has us removing sprockets, etc and taking off the chain in one peice.

Thanks again

You disconnect the master link by grinding the rivets down, but you need to have a new master link on hand before you can put the chain back together.

best way i know of to stake the nut is to use a drift and a BFH and make believe that you're setting that drift into a vampire's heart, DRIVE that stake