Today I ordered

A 13 tooth Renthal front sprocket
A 48 tooth steel rear sprocket
A 114 link x-ring chain (included master link)
New Smith goggles with mirrored shield

(from rockymountianatv.com)


Happy Birthday to me.

Oh wow...Happy Birthday hon! Hope you're having a great day, and don't skin your knuckles putting that stuff on.

A tad bit premature....birthday is Friday.

If I'm lucky I'll get parts on my birthday.

No matter though....early next week will be fine too.

I can't wait to remove stock chain and rear sprocket.

But I can at least wait a few more days.

But thanks any way.

Happy Birthday!

Go ride, enjoy your day...

HBD..... have a good one.

UPS tracking says June 1st for delivery. Had I ordered one day earlier I'd have had my stuff today I think.

Oh well...perhaps I can find some good mud puddles tomorrow and get her all dirty all over again.

Happy B-Day Motokid:

And with presents like those about to show up at your door, I hope you have many more just like it!

Wayne Gerdes - CleanMPG

Got my box of stuff yesterday evening. Love the new Smith goggles.

Gearing and chain replacement will have to wait for weekend.

What's the easiest, fastest way to remove/cut stock chain? I do not own a grinder or Dremel tool.

Can I drill out a rivet easily? Drive a large flatblade screw-driver between links?

Also, how do I know if the stock sprocket bolts can be used with new rear sprocket? I know some require new bolt kits. There was nothing on the rockymountainatv site that said I'd need a bolt kit.

What determines if new ones are needed?

When I replaced my chain, I just went ahead and removed the entire swing arm. This way I could re-grease needed areas. It also allowed me to save the stock chain just in case of the event that I somehow trash my x-ring.

But the easiest and fastest would technically be a nice set of bolt cutters and just cut the chain.


As for the sprocket bolts. Unless the sprocket requires tapered bolts, you should be able to use the stock ones.


Also, when I ordered my new chain, the master link included was a rivet style. Thats fine and dandy but if you even want to easily remove the chain without a dremel or grinder, I suggest buying the clip style master link. They are like $8, and will allow you to remove the chain very easily and without having to cut anything.

Also Also, Why did you go with a 114? Not that it makes much of any difference, but you could have gone with a 111 with a 13/48 setup. And then you wouldnt need to adjust the rear tire further back on the swing arm. Which would translate to easier wheelies because the rear wheel would be closer to the source of rotation. I know we are only talking about probably 1" but these are the types of things that I think of.

Rule of thumb I thought was one link for every additonal tooth.

I went 6 teeth over stock, so I added 6 to 108 and got 114.

Is that not correct?

I'm thinking that's gonna be a bit long...

Well...I was able to borrow a dremel from work...so cutting a few links out if needed won't be a huge issue.

It's better to be long than too short.

SheWolf wrote:

It's better to be long than too short.

Go ahead...say it again.

What...I think everyone would agree long is better than short.

Still talking about chains, right?

Hi WRoldman:

I think chains stopped being discussed about half way up the page
I think I will sit back and watch how this one ... Hmmm ... "develops"

Wayne Gerdes - CleanMPG

If MotoKid goes with a shorty he'll be sooooooorry.....

From what I'm hearing....public opinion is I'm too long.

Its going to be close. I'm currently rocking a 110 for my 12/48 setup. But for shits and giggles I threw on a 12/43 and I had enough adjustment to make it fit.

Nice list and happy B-lated B-day.

I used an RK 520XSO 112 link chain with my 13/47 setup. You might get away with the 114 with the 13/48. (I'm thinking of trying a 13/49 next time)

I prefer the long chain for two reasons. First, it provides more clearance between the tire and the front of the swingarm. Second, it lengthens (just barely) the swingarm which places (just slightly) more weight on the front wheel. I find my X is more likely to skip the front wheel than the back like on my other bikes, so that's one change I've made to get a little more weight forward

I wouldn't worry about reusing the rear sprocket bolts. The torque from our little engines is unlikely to damage them if they're tight and seated. I would be more worried about the lock nuts. Often they can be reused too, although they do wear out over time.

I used new bolts because I needed the tapered style, but I didn't have the lock nuts in stock so I reused them. They kept coming lose (on a trip of course). Eventually I got new lock nuts and used lock-tight. No more problems there.

Yep, ended up cutting two links off. 112 links seems perfect.

Looks like rear sprocket is designed for either stock bolts or countersink bolts.




New 13t countershaft:


No locking tabs on countershaft nut:



First chain ever with masterlink and clip. Little nervous about this.




So 13 tooth front, 48t rear, and 112 link X-ring chain =

Looks good! How does it feel on there?

I have to say I'm as pleased as can be.

#1) the noise level from the rear of the bike has dramatically decreased

#2) the feel of the new gearing fits my riding style perfectly

Going back to the 13t front and larger rear has been a wonderful improvement.
No rubber bullshit on the sprockets means no squealing noise.
More clearance on swingarm and chainguards means less noise too.

Where my ear tells me to shift and the powerband adjustment of the new gearing just seems to put me in sweet spot.

I also remembered to adjust my 12 o'clock labs speedo corrector.

Taking into consideration my Distanzia size, and the gearing change my setting offset was a -22.7%



But yeah....great mod for my kind of riding.

Ordered new mirrors.

these - happy fathers day to me <-- clicky

Pics when they get here.