Custom Retractable Windshield

What is the status on the group order? I have been watching their website but not seeing anything specific to the WR. Is this thread the only way to get this going?

VDiddy wrote:

What is the status on the group order? I have been watching their website but not seeing anything specific to the WR. Is this thread the only way to get this going?

The fairing production is ready to go and we will be making some this week. The website will be updated in due corse to include futher photos and options. We have offered a $15% discount to members of this site in the form of a group buy for orders before the beginning of September. This will be $395 instead of $465 for the kit. They will be white with a blue decal kit, but there is no problem doing any of the other colours on our website if prefered.

You can order directly from the site (stating your order is for the WR in the comments box), or via SheWolf here on the site.

I'll fill it out on your site-

The more time I spend with mine the more I lke it. I am loving riding at night now.

I took the plunge and my fairing showed up yesterday. Will have pics posted soon, but I am VERY pleased with the fit, instructions, etc. Can't wait to get this thing out of the garage. After the 15% group buy and shipping from BC to VT, total cost was about $430. Install took about 3 hours, including time spent herding my 2 and 4 year old "helpers" in the shop, and fussing around with wire routing, grounding, etc. So really, it went quite smoothly.

I wasn't so concerned about lighting at night- I try to avoid night riding whenever possible (too many deer and moose in these parts to really enjoy yourself) - the primary reason I got this was for additional wind/rain protection. Coming from a VStrom and then a KLR, I am used to some protection from the wind, especially during the March/November riding seasons in Vermont. After 400, 600, and 1,200 mile trips on the WRR this summer, it was clear that I would need a bit more coverage if this was going to be my primary ADV bike in the shoulder seasons. From how this looks (from sitting on the seat) in the garage, I am optimistic that it will do the trick. Visibility is hardly reduced. For instance, I used to see the front tip of my fender over the stock headlight shroud while seated, now I can see about 2 feet in front of that point, so it barely affects visibility of things right in front of you. And wind/rain protection will likely be great- the screen goes up 7-8", putting the top edge of it in the same neighborhood of the XL CalSci windscreen on my Strom. This will surely make chest-pounding downpours more tolerable.

The second reason I got it was for "light insurance"- I hate the thought of only having one headlight. You're 500 miles from home on some nasty log roads, you are riding at night cause the site you were going to camp at was filled/flooded/non-existent/etc, and a rock takes out your only lighting. It is nice to have a second beam out there for emergency purposes. But that is really just trying to find more reasons to justify it to the wife- and safety is always an easy sell!

Will have more pics and ride report this weekend- I gotta get to work.

Nice looking product for sure. As I looked at the product I had to ask myself if anyone had considered using then on a naked sporting motorcycle.....Like maybe a Honda Hawk GT.

Can anybody else post pictures of the screen from the saddle side of the bike when they get a chance?

gatorfan wrote:

Can anybody else post pictures of the screen from the saddle side of the bike when they get a chance?

Here you go...

from my install pics. This might help give you an idea...



This one is a bit hard to see...



This one is only slightly better...



The neat thing is that you can get replacement dashes so if you want to change the layout or try a different configuration it is no big deal at all.

I will be giving this a proper trial on and off road next week. I can't wait.

I'll post a review with better pics then. I also want to build a stand off block or possibly add a RAM mount to the dash for my Zumo. For now it lives on the bars.

How about some field pics?

WR250X/R field test

To boldly go where I likely shouldn't... again



The "road" to the goat trail...



Take a fairinged bike under that... ok



Loving this fairing and the lights BIG TIME!

Another...



More later...

Yea, I am digging it .

Rumor on the streets is that the group deal is going away soon. If you want one now is the time. I really like this thing more and more... It is small enough not to have to worry too much about it on the trail so far

Their website only lists Husky blue. I wnder how close it is to Yamaha blue?

OK, I'll answer my own question. It's not close enough. I ordered white, it's on the way. Ian seems like a cool dude. He answered all of my questions quickly.

My Lynx fairing is on order. I am pumped. This farkle looks really nice on the WRR.

Mr. Fisherman wrote:

As promised...

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/oh-those-sweet-mods-f5/lynx-fairing-install-wr250x-t2739.htm

WOW....A 250cc DAKARish. Amazing what can be done with the WR.......

I have Rox (non-pivoting) risers and Fastco Flexx bars. . . the stock dash didn't even come close to working with my setup. Called Ian and he's sending out a replacement ASAP.

The bars go out and up so much over the stock keyed ignition that I'm contemplating dumping it all together. Lose the wieght and just wire up a few switches that have to be pushed in sequence to start the bike. It's probably harder for a theif to figure that out than just breaking the ignition barrel.

I'll post pictures when I'm done. . .

matttys wrote:

I have Rox (non-pivoting) risers and Fastco Flexx bars. . . the stock dash didn't even come close to working with my setup. Called Ian and he's sending out a replacement ASAP.

The bars go out and up so much over the stock keyed ignition that I'm contemplating dumping it all together. Lose the wieght and just wire up a few switches that have to be pushed in sequence to start the bike. It's probably harder for a theif to figure that out than just breaking the ignition barrel.

I'll post pictures when I'm done. . .

Ian will take good care of you.

I had to modify mine too as I have the pro taper setup.

The ignition switch was a bit of a fiasco but I thought it was better left functional. I know the bike won't run without the instrument cluster connected, not sure about the ignition switch. You might want to look over the electrical schematic and maybe temp wiring your "fix" before committing and removing the switch or the tamper proof bolts.

Another thing you want to check is the brake line routing. Mine was rubbing on the line with the removal of the top guide. I am rethinking this now. Mine has a small groove worn in the dash. I might relocate the guide or come up with some sort of bushing.

Be careful with the shields.

I recently broke mine in a wreck. The replacement for the shield is close to $50, plus another $17 for shipping. Be careful with these items. I had the shield in the lowered position, and still manged to break it.

I think I'll try to make my own shield first out of plexi-glass, if that doesn't work, I'll get an original replacement......

Mr. Fisherman wrote:

The ignition switch was a bit of a fiasco but I thought it was better left functional. I know the bike won't run without the instrument cluster connected, not sure about the ignition switch. You might want to look over the electrical schematic and maybe temp wiring your "fix" before committing and removing the switch or the tamper proof bolts.

I think you may be right. I believe the switch has some resistance (or something) because cutting the 'clutch' wire and powering it externally didn't allow the bike to ignite and run. The positive red in splits off to red and orange before going into the keyed switch...I was just going to jump this with a momentary switch, but perhaps the orange powers the 'accessories' off the switch?

Has anyone removed the ignition with success? It may still be easier to rewire than it is to remove the tamper proof bolts.

***Follow Up***

So my new idea is to keep the stock ignition intact, but put a switch (or 2) in line on the incoming red positive wire. I'll probably have to shave the key down to keep it in the bike as they ignition will always be turned to 'on' although it will be switched. Any downsides with this course of action?

As a teaser . . . I've integrated Zeta LED flashers into the fairing

matttys wrote:

Mr. Fisherman wrote:

The ignition switch was a bit of a fiasco but I thought it was better left functional. I know the bike won't run without the instrument cluster connected, not sure about the ignition switch. You might want to look over the electrical schematic and maybe temp wiring your "fix" before committing and removing the switch or the tamper proof bolts.

I think you may be right. I believe the switch has some resistance (or something) because cutting the 'clutch' wire and powering it externally didn't allow the bike to ignite and run. The positive red in splits off to red and orange before going into the keyed switch...I was just going to jump this with a momentary switch, but perhaps the orange powers the 'accessories' off the switch?

Has anyone removed the ignition with success? It may still be easier to rewire than it is to remove the tamper proof bolts.

***Follow Up***

So my new idea is to keep the stock ignition intact, but put a switch (or 2) in line on the incoming red positive wire. I'll probably have to shave the key down to keep it in the bike as they ignition will always be turned to 'on' although it will be switched. Any downsides with this course of action?

As a teaser . . . I've integrated Zeta LED flashers into the fairing

Always on could get messy... the FI and fuel pump would always be on, the way my HID lights aer wired my low beam would be on (may be tinkering with this down the road to make it more like factory, off till running).

My key is a bit of a pain to insert as it is pretty deep. I have considered adding a hinged cover as I turn the bike off with the key. Having a cover would hide it if/when I forget to take the key out of the ignition.

This is not an old school, 2 wire system anymore... If you look at my install thread you can get an idea what I went through dealing with one of the tan;er proof bolts. If I had it to do over I would have cut the bracket instead like Ian did.

Call me paranoid, but I was not comfortable modifying the ignition. I want it robust and reliable.

Mr. Fisherman wrote:

Always on could get messy... the FI and fuel pump would always be on, the way my HID lights aer wired my low beam would be on (may be tinkering with this down the road to make it more like factory, off till running).

I'm not sure if this is correct. If you see the wiring diagram, there is one hot wire coming into the switch and 3 going out. If I simply cut the incoming hot wire then none of the other 3 wires get power. . . but then again, that assumes I'm understanding the wiring diagram correctly.

Link to wiring diagram here: http://bamarides.com/rideforum/dual-sport/the-yamaha-wr250r-thread/

The lovely wife got me a Lynx fairing for my bDay. Yoohoo!

I started the install. So I thought I would post of some pics.

I pulled the side plastics , tank and seat off to have good access. Then pulled the stock spedo, head light and fairing off. Then pulled the hand guards off and poped the handle bar off and just laid it across the frame.

I chose to hack saw off the OEM support for the OEM speedo. Took about 30 or 45 minutes with a hack saw blade and a pair of vice grips. Tough going. But just keep at it and you will get it. I also filed off all the sharp edges and burs.




Then comes a step that is a bit dicy. You have to unbolt teh handle bar risers. They are kinda tough to get to . But it can be done. The right side one is the tough one because the ridge that is part of the steering lock gets in the way a bit. I used a breaker bar and socket to minimize the size. A ratchet was too wide. By turning the wheel in a slight right hand turn, you can just get clear of the ridge and get the socket on there. Then just inch it off in small turns. It goes back on the same way . Here is a shot of that bolt.





The dash pannel is held on below the handle bar risers. Here you can see it after it is bolted in place. (Update - If you get the HID lights I recommend you mount the ballasts on the dash pannel before you bolt it in place. Getting the screws in the lower part of the ballasts is tough otherwise. Doable, but tough.




The stock speedo bolts right in to the pre-drilled holes if you order it that way. The holes on mine were not perfectly aligned. Had to wallo out a hole for a bolt with a drill. No big deal.





Oh, when you are taking things off, you need to remove the brake line braket from the upper tripple clamp pinch bolts.




Next I drilled holes and mounted the ballasts for the HID lights. I chose to put the wiring connectors for the ballast on the bottom side hoping this will help keep water from ponding in there. (Update - The wire connectors to the ballast have nice weaather proofing. So if I did this again I would put the wire connection points on top.) (It will work, but wiring runs are better from the top.) I kept the ballast mounted as far up as I could and still get the bolt in along the edge of the dash pannel. The corner sticks past the edge a bit. I test fit the fairing and it looks like this should be ok. We will see. (It worked fine). The bottom bolts are PIA to get to to screw them in. But by bending the dash pannel it helped me get the angle I needed to drill and and then get to this location. The pannel is quite tough, so I was not fearful of breaking it. I started holding the ballest in place and drilling one hole through the mounting tab and putting that bolt in. Then I could drill the other holes exactly where they needed to be with the ballast in place.





One ballast on each wing.

Next comes the wiring harness and mounting the fairing. (This all is pretty strait forward. However, I got the wire plugs into the ballasts 180 out at first, +/- was backwards. The head lights would not come on. I rotated both plugs and everything worked fine. I did not see anything to tell me which way to plug those in. Was lucky to figgure it out.)

More later!


Well I got it all finished. Looks and works really nice!

A few hints on mounting my Acerbis hand guards with the Lynx faing in place. At first I thought I could not mount these hand guards. But by studing teh photos on the Britania web site, I figgured it out.

You first have to attach the clamp to the handle bar. Attach it as far outward as possible. This keeps it from clashing with the bolts on the tripple clamp. But it does have to point downward a bit to avoid the fairing.

Next attach the bar to the clamp and tighten up the clamp bolts and the bolt attaching the bar to the clamp. Slide the bar as far outward as possible.

I ended up with quite a gap between the bar and the end of the handle bar where it bolts on. Mine has a bolt that is quite long though. I just used the bolt to bend the hand guard bar into place. This also gave the hand guard a shape such that my stock clutch and brake levers do not hit the hand guard any more. Nice unintended consequence!

I need to figgue out better wind protection though. My hand guards point downward a bit. Those smallish Acerbis plastic wind guards are pretty much ineffective now. Does anyone know if Acerbis makes bigger wind protectors for these hand guards??? Got a link to a location where I can get some???


Update : I finally tested the HID lights on a dark night out on a lonely hiway. They really put out some light! The hibeam lights up the road waaaay down there.