Two questions: Correcting speedo error ... and chain rub

I'm going to a 13 / 47 combo and wondering if there is any way to regear the speedo to correct it?


Next question is, swingarm chain rub concern with a rear lowering link.... is it an issue with a 13 tooth front sprocket? Would a 14 tooth help?

Thanks.

http://www.12oclocklabs.com/ <-- go here

That'll fix your already incorrect speedo.....and if you change gearing it'll be even more off.

Or get a gps unit...

No chain rub worries with 13 tooth front. That's stock.

Some people say the 12 tooth will cause some rubbing, others say if your chain is properly adjusted you won't have any issues.


I wouldn't go to 14 tooth unless you are doing serious freeway traveling for loooooooooooong distances. In which case you bought the wrong bike.

I wore away my slider to the point of scuffing my swingarm running a 13T --- I let the chain get too loose. I run 13/45 but I'm thinking about 14/49, still studying on it.

Edit: A little more reading, scroll to #20241:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15316453&postcount=20241

Sarah

Hmmm good info! Thanks.

That 12oclock speedo correction is pretty slick. I do have a Garmin I may try out first just for kicks to see how far off the speedo is.

Good sprocket link too!

Yeah, maybe a 14 tooth would be good, but I'd have to calculate the rear to keep me near stock gearing. Actually, I'd like to gear it down just a tad, but keep it tall enough for occasional highway use.

zone47 wrote:

Hmmm good info! Thanks.

That 12oclock speedo correction is pretty slick. I do have a Garmin I may try out first just for kicks to see how far off the speedo is.

Good sprocket link too!

Yeah, maybe a 14 tooth would be good, but I'd have to calculate the rear to keep me near stock gearing. Actually, I'd like to gear it down just a tad, but keep it tall enough for occasional highway use.

This table won't align properly as text and I have no intention of building a table by hand with the tool this forum software provides. But it will be easy enough for you to get everything properly aligned and figure it out.

43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51
12 3.58 3.67 3.75 3.83 3.92 4.00 4.08 4.17 4.25
13 3.31 3.38 3.46 3.54 3.62 3.69 3.77 3.85 3.92
14 3.07 3.14 3.21 3.29 3.36 3.43 3.50 3.57 3.64

Stock 13/43 is 3.31

Go 14/47 will give you your "gear down just a tad" at 3.36 - and if you find that isn't low enough for a ride or overall, dropping back to a 13 tooth CS will put you at 3.62, a little lower than the popular 12/43 combo. And if your highway use is only "occasional", you can probably live with 13/47 all the time.

When the current sprockies and chain are toast, I've pretty much decided that 14/49 will be just about right for my riding.

i went to a 14/53, freakin kicks!!! it makes it so i can ride off road and get into the techy stuff and my top speed on the road is still over 80
and i went with this
speedohealer
works goos and easy to set up, plug and play

The old-school rule of thumb was simple.

1 tooth in front roughly translates to 3 teeth on rear.

To keep stock gearing and go up one on front, you'd go down three on rear.

It's not an exact science - but it's generally as close as hand grenades.


That being said - stock gearing is pretty boring on these bikes.
But that is purely a personal opinion.

I know that Shewolf has had a 12t front on her R for years and to the best of my knowledge she's never had issues with wearing through the
swingarm protector. It's all about chain tension.

Staying stock in front, and raising the teeth on the rear will make a subtle angle change of the chain as well and make
swingarm contact less likely.

Plus - those swingarm protectors can be replaced if you find the chain has dug some deep grooves into it.

The extra ooommph you get from a gearing change is money well spent.