2010 WRR won't start., no fuel pump some times.

Heeeeelp!!! Go to start up the WR after letting it sit for the past 3 weeks and it wont start. 2010 bike with 3k on the clock.

Turn key, on with kill switch, starter cranks fine and fast but no fuel pump priming. Gas in tank, bike on tender so battery is good.

Checked and there is juice at both ends of the kill switch when ignition and kill are on.

Checked the plugs under the radiator, all are OK.

Checked the lean sensor and the main bus into the computer, both are tight. Wiggling them to knock off oxidation does nothing.

Driving me crazy, since it's an intermittent problem. Go back out an hour later, key in , kill switch on, pump primes bike runs.

Let it run a minute or so, try back in a bit, no start.

Did it last night, bike started. Ran around the 'hood for half an hour and down to gas station. Turned bike off, aired up tires a bit. Bike started up fine. Blasting around the hood and lovin life, bike ran fine, no starvation issues. Bike is good and hot, would rule out fuel pump itself, not?

Got back home, put in garage. No start 10 minutes later. Same drill, everything works, starter spins but no fuel pump, no start.

Relays seldom go bad but I have to wonder if this is a relay since I can't pinpoint this to hot only or cold only, yadda yadda yadda. Anyone else have intermittent problems other than the dreaded loose connectors?

The bike has been great to me so maybe now she's pissed since I've been riding the Harley a bit more this year for commuting.

Rule292 wrote:

Turn key, on with kill switch

I really doubt it's this simple but: On with the kill switch and then turn the key for the pump to prime. If you have the kill switch in stop, turn the key on and then the kill switch from stop to run, no pump. At least not until you use the start button and then let off of it.

If you have your bike wired so you can get it to diag mode: check items 9 & 50. 9 is fuel system voltage which should be around 12v. 50 will fire the fuel system relay 5x.

If you don't have it wired. And assuming you have not bypassed the clutch & sidestand switches, you should be able to create a situation that disables the start button relay. Which should only leave the pump & fan relays enabled. With the key off, put the bike in any gear (not neutral), clutch out, sidestand down, kill switch to run and then turn the key on. As long as the radiator fan doesn't fire up, the only relay you should be able to hear is the fuel system relay. You might have to put your ear close to the seat to hear it.

It could still be the pump but the symptoms don't seem to follow the norm.

I recall a thread once about kill switch usage and bike issues.

Many of us never, NEVER use it. Key on, and key off - only.

Let me see if I can find it.

HA....took a while, and I started the damn thread.....

click me <--clicky


Not saying this is your issue....but.......

Interesting thread. The most interesting part is that I looked in two owner's manuals and neither of them says to: turn the key to "ON" & put the engine stop switch to the "RUN" position.

What I'm seeing on page 6-1 is: turn the key to "ON" and make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN". Meaning just make sure it is in RUN - nothing about having to switch it.

I even looked at the section about the stop switch on 4-9. Which says to put it to "RUN" before starting the engine and set it to "stop" to stop the engine in the case of an emergency.

Seems that either the manul changed or no one other than sswrx even attempted to read the manual. RTFM!

I have to go with router.exe on this one - seems like an old-wives-tale type thread.

I use the kill switch sometimes, the key sometimes. I have no set routine to turning my bike off.

I can't believe folks didn't comment on that post that said they turn their bike off at stops. Until I came to this forum I had never heard of such a horrible habit, but have now read of two WRR owners doing that. Crazy, lol.

Heoz wrote:

Rule292 wrote:

Turn key, on with kill switch

I really doubt it's this simple but: On with the kill switch and then turn the key for the pump to prime. If you have the kill switch in stop, turn the key on and then the kill switch from stop to run, no pump. At least not until you use the start button and then let off of it.

If you have your bike wired so you can get it to diag mode: check items 9 & 50. 9 is fuel system voltage which should be around 12v. 50 will fire the fuel system relay 5x.

If you don't have it wired. And assuming you have not bypassed the clutch & sidestand switches, you should be able to create a situation that disables the start button relay. Which should only leave the pump & fan relays enabled. With the key off, put the bike in any gear (not neutral), clutch out, sidestand down, kill switch to run and then turn the key on. As long as the radiator fan doesn't fire up, the only relay you should be able to hear is the fuel system relay. You might have to put your ear close to the seat to hear it.

It could still be the pump but the symptoms don't seem to follow the norm.

Hmmm.

Went out to garage before work. Made sure kill switch was set to on before playing with key.

Turned key, lights, pump primed bike started. I ran it for 30 seconds and shut off key. Waited about another half a minute, turned key, pump primed bike ran. Turned off key and headed to work via cage.

Came home tonight. Went to garage, turned key, lights came on, pump primed, bike started. Ran it for about half a minute, then turned it off via key. Turned key about 30 seconds later, pump primed and bike ran. Ran for a few seconds and turned off via key.

Came back out after supper, bout an hour later. Turned bike on with key, pump primed and bike started. Left bike run and went in house to take a healthy one. Came back about 25 minutes later, bike was still running. Throttled it a few times, all loooked good. Turned off via key.

Turned key right back on, bike started up (still full pressure) and ran for maybe 30 seconds. I shut off key and went back in house.

Went back out 15 minutes later, turned key, no fuel pump prime. Bike stuttered and cranks fast and fine, no fuel. Waited another 15 minutes, same condition. Juice on both poles of kill switch, but no fuel pump noise and no pump.


Call me confused. Gonna have to further debug whether the pump is getting juice (a la your voltage checks for the relay). And the seat is off and the side panels apart so I should be able to check the relays, etc.

Stay tuned.

Heoz wrote:

Interesting thread. The most interesting part is that I looked in two owner's manuals and neither of them says to: turn the key to "ON" & put the engine stop switch to the "RUN" position.

What I'm seeing on page 6-1 is: turn the key to "ON" and make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN". Meaning just make sure it is in RUN - nothing about having to switch it.

I even looked at the section about the stop switch on 4-9. Which says to put it to "RUN" before starting the engine and set it to "stop" to stop the engine in the case of an emergency.

Seems that either the manul changed or no one other than sswrx even attempted to read the manual. RTFM!

I have to go with router.exe on this one - seems like an old-wives-tale type thread.

FINE-C anyone????

Actually I've always used the kill switch to stop a bike, it's a habit. After looking at the wiring, it appears to be a simple single-pole switch in line so I too can't see what affect that would have on starting sequence as long as it has continuity when it should. Anyhoo, I did modify the "test procedure" to not touch the kill switch, and seemingly no change.

That's a lot of starting and killing engine with little riding and re-charging going on.

Not sure that's a good thing regarding battery.

Rule292 wrote:

...
Actually I've always used the kill switch to stop a bike, it's a habit. After looking at the wiring, it appears to be a simple single-pole switch in line so I too can't see what affect that would have on starting sequence as long as it has continuity when it should. Anyhoo, I did modify the "test procedure" to not touch the kill switch, and seemingly no change.

Just FYI - if the kill switch is engaged, the bike won't even turn over. It'll be completely dead. Likewise for the clutch and sidestand cut-offs. And the lean-angle (tip-over) sensor, which will also throw an error code.

motokid wrote:

That's a lot of starting and killing engine with little riding and re-charging going on.

Not sure that's a good thing regarding battery.

I keep the bike on the battery tender, even during the riding season, so it was OK.

sturgeon wrote:

Rule292 wrote:

...
Actually I've always used the kill switch to stop a bike, it's a habit. After looking at the wiring, it appears to be a simple single-pole switch in line so I too can't see what affect that would have on starting sequence as long as it has continuity when it should. Anyhoo, I did modify the "test procedure" to not touch the kill switch, and seemingly no change.

Just FYI - if the kill switch is engaged, the bike won't even turn over. It'll be completely dead. Likewise for the clutch and sidestand cut-offs. And the lean-angle (tip-over) sensor, which will also throw an error code.

I have to put the bike in diag mode the next time and see if any codes are being thrown. But until then, the saga continues.

Went out about 8, key in, key on, pump primes and bike runs fine.


Put the seat back on and hop on for a bit of a ride. Went out for bout hour and a half. Stopped to fill up with gas. Bike started up fine. Along with bopping around town I did about a 10 mile highway run at anywhere from 55 to about 80. No problemo, no starvation, no nothing.

Came back, parked the bike, turned the key off. Opened the garage door, fired bike back up and it fired right up.

Call me confuzzled.

Since it seems you only had this problem once, I have to ask. Did you wash it right before you tried to start it the day it wouldn't start? One time immediately after washing my bike it didn't want to start. It cranked a long time before it fired up. I am not sure where I got water I shouldn't have it but I managed it haha.

Coop wrote:

Since it seems you only had this problem once, I have to ask. Did you wash it right before you tried to start it the day it wouldn't start? One time immediately after washing my bike it didn't want to start. It cranked a long time before it fired up. I am not sure where I got water I shouldn't have it but I managed it haha.

Actually it hasn't been washed since last year. Got wet a few times but not recently.

It seems OK now, it started up fine today. It was only those 3 or 4 days there where it was funny. Maybe there was some oxidation on a contact somewhere that needed to be knocked off.

Acme PA???? - I'll be headed right by you next month on my annual trip back to Uniontown to visit my relatives back home. May come back in October again to do some mine trail riding in Greene County like I did last year

Rule292 wrote:

Acme PA???? - I'll be headed right by you next month on my annual trip back to Uniontown to visit my relatives back home. May come back in October again to do some mine trail riding in Greene County like I did last year

Awesome, have fun!