Engine Cut Off

Well I just got back from a 280 mile DS ride down to south GA and back.

Bike has been running like a champ after the Ultimate airbox mod, DRD slip on, and FMF programmer. The today I was plaqued with the occasional engine shut down /cut out.

Usually would happen in 5th or 6th gear pulling a load at around 60-65 MPH. All of a sudden the engine would just cut out. If I pulled in the clutch the engine would come back to life. Almost feels like a switch was thrown and pull in the clutch allows the engine to start running again. I am wondering if this may be an issue with the kick stand switch.

Since I am installing the Eastern Beaver 3 circuit solution this week I will be going over the electrical connections to make sure everything is tight.

Has anyone seen this before?

What about your air filter?

Dirty?

Too much oil left after cleaning?

Good luck!

PYG RYDR wrote:

What about your air filter?

Dirty?

Too much oil left after cleaning?

Good luck!

Certainly will check that but I mean when the engine cut out it was as if I threw the kill switch... no throttle response at all. Then I would pull in the clutch and the motor would come back to life.

Check your battery connections. I had a similar thing happen one day. It turned out my negative side battery terminal was loose. Tightened it up and it's been fine ever since.

I've had this issue:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t7636-cutting-out

Dig definitely into FMF settings.

skrew wrote:

Dig definitely into FMF settings.

I know that 5th number on the FMF settings is 4 right now.

I read through the threads on the FMF programmer but find it strange that the bike would only fire back up after I pulled the clutch in.

This weekend I am pulling off the shock and forks and sending them to GoRace. While they are being reworked I will be going through the electrical system checking connections and installing an Eastern Beaver 3 circuit solution for my Powerlet plugs and LED Spots that will be mounted in place of the front turn signals (turn signals are being relocated to the HDB handguard shields).

I will adjust the 5th number on the FMF programmer since it sounds like it wouldn't hurt anything and worse case I can always set it back.

While I have it apart I think I will be doing the clutch and side stand switch bypass - had those on my DR650 after a couple of lessons learned on the trails.

My money is on the FMF programmer, I got fed up with mine and unplugged it. Runs fine now!! If you look on FMF web page you will no longer find the programmer. What does that tell you?

abchel wrote:

My money is on the FMF programmer, I got fed up with mine and unplugged it. Runs fine now!! If you look on FMF web page you will no longer find the programmer. What does that tell you?

Have you done any mods on the bike?

abchel wrote:

My money is on the FMF programmer, I got fed up with mine and unplugged it. Runs fine now!! If you look on FMF web page you will no longer find the programmer. What does that tell you?

And how do you ritching FA mixture now? FMF is not a manufacturer of Power Programmer - Dobeck is.

I had this same issue and since adjusting the 5th number on the FMF PP it hasn't come back. It was on a 4 when I purchased the bike. I bumped it up to 6, per other threads and it seems to have fixed the problem.

With the problem, if I released the throttle all the way and then gave it gas again it would work, so maybe when you are pulling the clutch in you are letting off the throttle also. Seems like a bug in the programmer.

I just installed the FMF programmer on my stock WRR and had one instance of it cutting out during my first ride since the install (never happened before in 1600+ miles). My 5th setting is at 4... I'm going to bump it up to 6 based on feedback seen in various other threads about this issue and see how it does.

dmmcd wrote:

I had this same issue and since adjusting the 5th number on the FMF PP it hasn't come back. It was on a 4 when I purchased the bike. I bumped it up to 6, per other threads and it seems to have fixed the problem.

With the problem, if I released the throttle all the way and then gave it gas again it would work, so maybe when you are pulling the clutch in you are letting off the throttle also. Seems like a bug in the programmer.

Good point!

dmmcd wrote:

I had this same issue and since adjusting the 5th number on the FMF PP it hasn't come back. It was on a 4 when I purchased the bike. I bumped it up to 6, per other threads and it seems to have fixed the problem.

With the problem, if I released the throttle all the way and then gave it gas again it would work, so maybe when you are pulling the clutch in you are letting off the throttle also. Seems like a bug in the programmer.

Well I haven't done much work or riding the WRR in a bit but today I did notice that when it cut out I rolled the throttle off and did not touch the clutch and rolled it back on and everything was fine.

I am taking the bike apart this weekend and will adjust the 5th number during all the work that I am doing to it. Looks like I will be heading out to CO and UT for a 2 week DS ride and with the way work is right now I need to my farkling moving.

rsteiger wrote:

Well I haven't done much work or riding the WRR in a bit but today I did notice that when it cut out I rolled the throttle off and did not touch the clutch and rolled it back on and everything was fine.

I am taking the bike apart this weekend and will adjust the 5th number during all the work that I am doing to it. Looks like I will be heading out to CO and UT for a 2 week DS ride and with the way work is right now I need to my farkling moving.

Ok. Put on few goodies this weekend.

Installed the HDB integrated turn signal shields and used a running light adapter from 12 O'Clock labs along with their fixed rate flasher unit.



Also replaced my Ricochet Skid plate with a Moose Racing HDPE skid plate... much quieter.


Installed some M8 eyelets for tie downs where my passenger foot pegs use to be.


Installed a Flatland Radiator Guard:


Once I had the stock front turn signals off I installed this turn signal brack from 12 O'Clock labs where I will be installing my LED spot lights in the near future:


But the best was taking the 5th setting on the FMF programmer from 4 to 6.5. So far no more cut out under acceleration!