Stator fried

Hmmm. Annoyed. At 8000km the WR-R's stator has fried, really fried. Don't know why.
I was working - droving sheep - when the bike start cutting out. No engine management light at this point. Eventually the battery drained and the EM light came on.

Problem 1: No stators in the whole of Australia
Problem 2: If there were, they cost $377.00AUD

I ordered one from US. Even with shipping by priority mail, I bought a spare stator, regulator and gasket for about $70.00AUD less than a stator alone would cost me here.

Each day the bike is out of order, it costs me money. I knew I should've taken my old TTR250 along j.i.c. Won't make that mistake again!!!

I'm working on a switching regulator vs the stock shunt so mine isn't running wfo all the time.

4play wrote:

I'm working on a switching regulator vs the stock shunt so mine isn't running wfo all the time.

I am very interested in this, Buddy.

Please create a thread when you have things sorted out.

Read this:

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8458717

I ordered the CH775 by the Polaris part # the rating is 35A which is plenty for a 350 watt stator. I talked to Roadster cycles & they list a 605 unit that has even higher capacity & an good reliability record. It's bigger & heavier .

IMHO if you don't burn a lot of power with accessories, it's silly to have a stator running wfo all the time making heat at the stator & the stock regulator. A series type actually effectively puts the stator in neutral so you don't waste fuel & make heat when the demand is low.

If you have any doubts about the heat created, remove the splash panel in front of the regulator. Start the bike & let it idle a for a minute or two, long enough to replenish the battery from starting the bike with your hand on the regulator. The less power you burn with lights etc, the more power the stock regulator sends to ground converting that power to heat. Conversely a series type regulator will run the stator & reg cooler cooler at low usage & out out more heat as the usage goes up.

Nice read.

Looks like that model is about the best for performance vs price point for our bike.

Stable to 10,000 rpm so it ought to fit the bill.

Are you going to use the Triumph Daytona 675 Link Lead or fab up your own adapter?

I'm going to wait until I have it in my hands and then figure it out.I would prefer to keep it all plug n play if I can.

Yes I ordered the Ducati harness from 2wheel parts. ~$15 shipped

Thought of a wrinkle. Idle speed

With a shunt type & the regulator running WFO all the time, the load is constant.

With the series the idle speed will be faster at low loads & slow down when being asked to power all your toys like heated gear.

Based on what I've read my bike is generating ~250 watts more power than it needs. That's roughly 1/3 HP wasted anytime the engine is running even with the high beams on.

As a precaution, I installed this idiot light from Roadster cycles. At least I'll know if I have a problem & might be able to get back out to pavement before it just stops running. It's ~$22



I tied into the running light lead & it's mounted with dbl sided tape to the instrument cluster. Red is discharging, orange is below 13.2 volts, green is good & alternating green red is over voltage. Simple & effective. It's not too bright for night riding, but shows well enough for direct sunlight.

That is an awesome little gizmo!

The regulator is the same size as stock



Bolts on



But does require wiring mods.

4play wrote:

IMHO if you don't burn a lot of power with accessories, it's silly to have a stator running wfo all the time making heat at the stator & the stock regulator. A series type actually effectively puts the stator in neutral so you don't waste fuel & make heat when the demand is low.

Yes, a very good idea. Not sure why m/c manufacturers use the antiquated wfo thing. Cheap, I suppose.

I fired it up today & can't perceive any difference. Idle speed doesn't noticeably change between lights on or off.
I'll have peace of mind knowing it's not generating excess heat buzzing down the hwy. IMHO that's what stresses the stock setup, sustained high RPM's max output/heat from the stator. The series regulator will reduce the stator load when it's not needed.

nice one. do you have any links for the harness. i take it the harness fit without any problems

There is no plug n play harness that I'm aware of. I ordered the harness in the link for the connectors & soldered/spliced the new connectors

is there any chance you can take a picture on how you did the wiring? how you connected it to the bike?

It's actually very, very simple. You currently have 5 wires on your single connector. Three of those are white, you cut them loose & splice them into the left side three wire connector in any order you choose, the remaining wires are the battery feed red & black. looking at the mounted regulator splice the red to the left lead & the black to the right. That's it.

FYI the idiot light I installed from Roadster Cycles was set up for a Shorai battery to indicate over voltage anything above 15 volts. It does sometimes indicate over voltage & is annoying/distracting. If you use this regulator I would recommend the std version for a lead acid battery as there is no way to adjust the regulator. Other than that I'm pleased with the regulator setup.

4play wrote:

the remaining wires are the battery feed red & black. looking at the mounted regulator splice the red to the left lead & the black to the right. That's it.

Not to be smart, but I think the black and red wires are from the ignition sensor. The three white wires are the charge wires to the reg/rec.

No, the three phase AC inputs from the stator are the three white leads. The DC output from the regulator/rectifier ties into the red & black battery leads just like the stock regulator does. Same 5 wires, just a different type of regulator.

Hello 4 Play,

What kind of battery do you run?

I am thinking about getting a Lithium.

I'm running a Shorai from a previous bike because it was essentially free. Honestly the OEM lead acid battery has demonstrated much better reliability & when I replace the Lithium I will most likely buy a stock replacement.

4play wrote:

No, the three phase AC inputs from the stator are the three white leads. The DC output from the regulator/rectifier ties into the red & black battery leads just like the stock regulator does. Same 5 wires, just a different type of regulator.

Of course you're quite right. Had a severe geriatric moment, which is easily eradicated from the memory...

Sorry

4play wrote:

There is no plug n play harness that I'm aware of. I ordered the harness in the link for the connectors & soldered/spliced the new connectors

It's not completely P&P, but some of the stuff over at Eastern Beaver will get you started.  I've read somewhere that the FH012/010 Connectors with Leads will work on the SH775.  If you're not familiar with EB, Jim does quality work - highly recommend his stuff.

I've been considering this upgrade for both my WRR and VStrom.

66T wrote:

Hmmm. Annoyed. At 8000km the WR-R's stator has fried, really fried. Don't know why.
I was working - droving sheep - when the bike start cutting out. No engine management light at this point. Eventually the battery drained and the EM light came on.

Problem 1: No stators in the whole of Australia
Problem 2: If there were, they cost $377.00AUD

I ordered one from US. Even with shipping by priority mail, I bought a spare stator, regulator and gasket for about $70.00AUD less than a stator alone would cost me here.

Each day the bike is out of order, it costs me money. I knew I should've taken my old TTR250 along j.i.c. Won't make that mistake again!!!  

Bugga


high revs,low speed and lots of heat?

good to know i should just get one from the USA when i kill mine