Stator fried

Mainly the slow speeds (lack of airflow) and hot weather.

But I think that the stator was faulty from new. The bike has displayed symptoms that I failed to read as charge-related from almost day one. The miracle is that there was enough charge happening to get 400hours out of it before complete failure.

The lessons for me are 1. that stators can still work for some time at a reduced output
2. stators can still pass the static multimeter test when they are rooted
3. the only way to test for a sound stator is to check its actual output with the engine running at the regulator plug.

4play wrote:

Read this:

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8458717

I ordered the CH775 by the Polaris part # the rating is 35A which is plenty for a 350 watt stator. I talked to Roadster cycles & they list a 605 unit that has even higher capacity & an good reliability record. It's bigger & heavier .

IMHO if you don't burn a lot of power with accessories, it's silly to have a stator running wfo all the time making heat at the stator & the stock regulator. A series type actually effectively puts the stator in neutral so you don't waste fuel & make heat when the demand is low.

If you have any doubts about the heat created, remove the splash panel in front of the regulator. Start the bike & let it idle a for a minute or two, long enough to replenish the battery from starting the bike with your hand on the regulator. The less power you burn with lights etc, the more power the stock regulator sends to ground converting that power to heat. Conversely a series type regulator will run the stator & reg cooler cooler at low usage & out out more heat as the usage goes up.

In BARF thread, it states that the 775 R/R has trouble above 10,000rpm. Since the WR goes to 12k, what issues does that present to the R/R? Is it working out, because we don't sit at 12k rpm for long?

This has not been an issue for me. The Only issue I have is the idiot light I installed (from roadster cycles) I specified for a shorai battery & it is set to show over voltage at 15 volts.
I get an occasional alternating orange/green that seems to be totally random as far as RPM. Since I can not adjust the voltage of the regulator, I recommend the standard idiot light. If I ever tach over 10k, I'm probably pretty focused on riding instead of checking out the light

66T wrote:

Mainly the slow speeds (lack of airflow) and hot weather.

But I think that the stator was faulty from new. The bike has displayed symptoms that I failed to read as charge-related from almost day one. The miracle is that there was enough charge happening to get 400hours out of it before complete failure.

The lessons for me are 1. that stators can still work for some time at a reduced output
                                2. stators can still pass the static multimeter test when they are rooted
                                3. the only way to test for a sound stator is to check its actual output with the engine running at the regulator plug.

What should be the voltage output when checking at the regulator plug?