WR taco in diagnostic mode?

INSTIGATOR wrote:

Where can I find the lean angle sensor?

Frank, don't you have a copy of the manual? Check your PM, I'll send you one.

So, got back from the ride today with the new setting, made the problem almost disappear. Plan on setting it to 40 next time and seeing what happens. It also picked up what seemed like a little bit more low speed torque and a little more "chug-ability". Im pretty stoked that I was made aware of this adjustment, thanks again.

Heres a little info on O2 sensors. Theyre typically only brought into play during light load and cruise. Under heavy load and WOT conditions the PCM(computer) ignores the O2 sensor and simply uses the base map for fuel calculations since normal O2 sensors are no where near fast enough responding or have a wide enough operaing range to give accurate readings. Wide band O2 sensors and air/fuel ratio sensors are more able to work in high load conditions but even they are often ignored during WOT conditions.

a video i took this afternoon.... :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q98ARDWEnUY

georgis4 wrote:

a video i took this afternoon.... :)
[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q98ARDWEnUY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q98ARDWEnUY[/quote[/url]]


when i first tried this adjustment mode i did about the same thing but did not go near as far on the numbers in either direction. i found with mine that going in the direction of negative numbers(mine was stock @ -7) made a lower idle and the bike stalled easily and overall ran like crap.
so in the positive direction i went up to around +10....again the idle fell off and the bike was "flat" on power. so i knew that the adjustment range i needed for my bike with the few mods i have needed to be between -7 and somewhere below +10.
+3 is the number my bike runs and idles the best at. i finnally got a chance to ride it in some cooler temps and the cooler air temps did not support any different numbers...in other words the bike still ran the best with the +3 setting even though i was riding it in about 25 degree cooler air temps.

so i'm thinking the the F.I. system on this bike covers a wide range of temps and conditions and you only need to match the CO number setting to whatever mods you have done to the bike. the ecu will take care of it from there.

i wonder how far you can go with just the common bolt on mods (intake and exhaust tweaks) before you have to go to a aftermarket programer?

I've been reading this thread and it's got me curious. Is this something that should be messed with if you already have a programmer installed? I have the FMF programmer but would be interested in this as well if it was worth messing with. I'm wondering if this setting should be set up and then mess with the programmer or this is adjusting something separate. Is this just for a better idle control?

john92 wrote:

I've been reading this thread and it's got me curious. Is this something that should be messed with if you already have a programmer installed? I have the FMF programmer but would be interested in this as well if it was worth messing with. I'm wondering if this setting should be set up and then mess with the programmer or this is adjusting something separate. Is this just for a better idle control?

your asking pretty much the same thing i was wondering about.

i don't have a programmer on mine...yet...and i just tried this adjustment for the sake of curiosity,but it turned out beneficial. this adjustment not only helped at idle but also at off-idle thru half throttle responsiveness....
you should try it....it couldn't do anything but give your bike a sharper state of tune...and you might even get more than i noticed since you have a programmer.
you have nothing to loose even if you don't get a better bottom end out of it....just simply put the number back to stock.

plz post back whatever you find if you do this.

So nobody with a fuel programmer has done this???

Has anyone found out what this setting, and changing it, actually does? As in from a service tech or documentation perspective? Or are we just going to fiddle with it and compare notes on what "feels right"? I guess I'd rather know before fiddling so I'm not accidentally running too lean or something (Read: Just because it seems to run better doesn't mean the new setting isn't creating a problem).

INSTIGATOR wrote:

So nobody with a fuel programmer has done this???

I haven't had a chance or thought about messing with it.

I installed a FMF Programmer primarily to try and alleviate the off idle stumble. Coming from a dirt only world of bikes with extremely low gearing, blipping the throttle is how I learned to wheelie. The same practice on the WRR ends in engine stall. The FMF programmer helps with the stumble, but does not cure it in my situation. Mods as follows: K&N, air box flapper mod, 12T counter shaft sprocket, D606's.

I'm going to try this CO mod and will report back as to how it works with the programmer.

Chadx wrote:

Has anyone found out what this setting, and changing it, actually does? As in from a service tech or documentation perspective? Or are we just going to fiddle with it and compare notes on what "feels right"? I guess I'd rather know before fiddling so I'm not accidentally running too lean or something (Read: Just because it seems to run better doesn't mean the new setting isn't creating a problem).

You're better to run it a bit rich than too lean, considering stock, this bike is already lean. With the programmer, the tuning will be a little more refined.

i still stand on my findings by changing the CO setting on mine. stock my setting was -7....it stumbled and stalled now and again and the idle rpm was low @ around 1485 rpms.
i'm now running mine set at +2 ...idle rpm is now around 1550 and i never get the stumble anymore. this adjustment raised my idle speed without touching the actual idle set screw and i feel it made a bit of difference in the overall low range responsiveness.

for me to actually find this better setting i had to change the setting then test ride it ...it only took a few times till i was at what seems to be the best for my bike. you've got to test ride it with the new setting, just changing it and blipping the throttle doesn't really reveal much.

if you go ahead and install the jumper you can access the CO mode any time and also see the tach whenever you want.

i'm still getting a slight dark(rich) smudge on my finger when ever i check the end of the pipe,and my radiator fan almost never comes on...even on the last few extremely muddy rides.

Well, I did mine. It was set at 1, so I moved it up to 15. Smelled a bit rich and I could hear a slight burbling in the lower end. Seemed a bit flat as well when you cracked on it. I backed it off to 11 and everything seemed to run a lot smoother. Instant fire up, crisp throttle response and definitely could feel the curve in power once the bike was around 6500, it was almost like a power band on a 2-stroke. Idle didn't have that pop it used to have, either, just a nice, smooth clean chug chug chug. I'm running the Tude tuner and airbox/AIS mods and all that fun stuff, so tweaking the CO adjust does make a difference. It's kind of like a finer tuning; like what you get between a 15 spd tranny vs an 18. The tuner's like the 15 speed where you go thru the gears, and the CO adjust is like the 18 speed where you have half gears so you can utilize it all. We'll see what happens when the summer rolls around and the temps are quite substantially higher.

As I have an australian model which has a CO2 sensor in the exhaust, will this not work on my model?Also the lean angle sensor is basically a 'hall effect' switch.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect

It'll work on yours too.

Thanks for the quick reply SheWolf, I'll be sure to try it out when I get home from work and let you all know how I go! This forum really is proving to be a wealth of knowledge on a great bike....

Okay guys so I tried this last night when I got home from work... I grounded the black wire w/ blue striping that seems to be sapre on the lean sensor under the seat. I tried it two ways; a) putting a jumper on the wire whilst still connected to the sensor and grounding it, and b) disconnecting the wire from the sensor and grounding it. Neither method got me into 'CO' mode. Method (b) gave me an engine warning light, code 41; and the bike would not start. With method (a) nothing seemed changed at all, the bike starts but does not show anything other than the standard functions on the dash. Am I doing something wrong here? I am thinking maybe I can't enter this mode due to the Co2 sensor in the exhaust on Australian models (however SheWolf told me it would work). Please let me know if I am stuffing this up in some way. Thanks guys (and gals)!

I know some other's with 02 sensors were saying they could enter 'CO' mode without grounding the lean sensor wire...

rydnseek has a very good write up on the process here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11242609&postcount=8056

Yeah, I heard that too. In any event, hooking up that ground wire won't hurt anything. Make sure you ground that wire to the battery. I tried it on the frame and it didn't do anything. You threw the code because the lean angle sensor was unplugged. When you have that wire connected to the battery, make sure you hold both the reset button and the top button, turn the key and continue to hold the buttons for a few seconds. Mine took about 10 seconds after the key was turned on. After that you should get the 'diag' letters on the display, then let go. Press those 2 buttons again while the ignition is on, and the 'Co' letters should appear on the display. Again, mine took around 5-10 seconds for it to show up. Let us know if that helps.

Awesome. Worked a treat this time! Yeah I didn't have to attach the spare wire to ground, just holding the reset and select1 button before turning on ignition works fin on Aus model. Mine was set at 2, now at 18 and feels a little more responsive in the meat of the rev range. I had never had any residue on the exhaust end-cap, so am assuming the engine was running a little lean. I'll be sure to check after my ride on sunday if there is any signs of it running richer. Also, as I have lost my manual :( I am not sure what the diag functions I entered does....When it just says Diag, I entered that menu and it says D1:01 - 16. Does anybody knows to what this refers? Once again, this forum is proving to be a wealth of knowledge for WRR owners, and I am fortunate to have found it. I'll let you know how it goes on the trials with the adjustments - I love how it can be done practically 'on the fly' as well, such a useful tool for minor performance adjustments - GO YAMAHA! Thanks, Max

In Diag mode theres, acuator and sensor tests. Basically its like a built in scan tool. allows you to view sensor values(rpm, coolant temp, throttle position, etc.) and run acuators(fuel pump on/off, pulse fuel injector, move exup, etc.). Really a cool diagnostic tool.

willcp00 wrote:

I installed a FMF Programmer primarily to try and alleviate the off idle stumble. Coming from a dirt only world of bikes with extremely low gearing, blipping the throttle is how I learned to wheelie. The same practice on the WRR ends in engine stall. The FMF programmer helps with the stumble, but does not cure it in my situation. Mods as follows: K&N, air box flapper mod, 12T counter shaft sprocket, D606's.

I'm going to try this CO mod and will report back as to how it works with the programmer.

OK,

I finally got around to testing this out. Mine defaulted to 6. Playing around with idle speed after a good warm up showed 6 to give the highest idle speed. I went ahead and bumped it up to 8 and went for a ride. I left my FMF programmer set to it's usual 3,3,1,8,8,8. The bike felt very good all day, but keep in mind this is the first time I've been able to really ride since last fall... I experienced a couple stalls in some very tight trails. Never had it stall on me before... Will post up again when I get a chance to do some more testing.

I just read through this entire thread (which is very useful information by the way) but I did not read from any one on how to get in the CO mode after you make the jumper for the black wire. Maybe I missed it (wouldnt be the first time) but do I just simply turn the bike on and then wala? Or do I need to hold a button in while turning the bike on? I dunno

beardo wrote:

I just read through this entire thread (which is very useful information by the way) but I did not read from any one on how to get in the CO mode after you make the jumper for the black wire. Maybe I missed it (wouldnt be the first time) but do I just simply turn the bike on and then wala? Or do I need to hold a button in while turning the bike on? I dunno

Try reading up what rydnseek wrote over here... Very good info.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11242609&postcount=8056