WWGuy's WR250R photo thread

Easter Sunday was a great day to enjoy a few hours of springtime riding in the SW Idaho high desert.

Nice pics.

Don't find that kind of scenery over here in Massachusetts... Damn It!

South Fork Payette River and Sawtooth Mountains - Memorial Day Weekend

Riding in the Owyhee Mountains in southern Idaho.

nice riding area you have there ww what sprocket set up are you using?

Thanks.  There's lots of great mountain riding here in Idaho on forest roads, two-track ATV trails, and single-track motorcycle trails.  For me pavement is mostly just a means to link them together.

I bought this 2011 bike used last winter with only 700 miles on it.  I struggled initially with low-speed stalls and resulting tip-overs in steep and/or technical terrain due to the tall factory gearing.  I swapped the factory 13/43 gearing for 13/51 JT Sprockets and 112 link DID VX2 chain for about $115 and this bike is now a mountain goat.  I lost about 10 MPH in the top end on the pavement but can still easily run up and down local highways at 60 to 65 MPH.  It's a great combination for where and how I ride.

The only modification I had to make to fit the 51 tooth rear sprocket was to raise the rear of the black plastic chain foot guard a bit with a simple extension of the mounting bracket. The chain guide on the bottom has close tolerance but doesn't seem to be wearing abnormally after riding a few hundred miles. I had some initial hesitation about gearing so low, but in hindsight I'm really glad I did it and would gladly do it again.

I went with the 13-47 and next I will go up to a 49, had the same damn problem, could not get the front wheel to lift to get over small logs, I hit a log like a lawn dart and over I went, my son was sitting on the other side on his Husky 310, he almost fell off he was laughing so much, right then I knew I had to make some changes hahaha cheer`s

Beautiful Idaho day at 7800' elevation!  The foundation is from a former USFS fire lookout.

Great pictures of Idaho. I have played in the Owyhee Mountains near Silver City some. Sounds like you are using the bike for want it was designed for. ENJOY!!

Summer time in the Idaho high country around 7500' elevation is still great riding weather!
 

Added some new farkle this weekend and then took it for a spin in the hills!  
- Pro Taper Evo Woods High Bend handlebars.
- Highway Dirt Bike Ultimate hand guards and upper bar clamp.
- Scott's steering stabilizer with SUB (under bar) mount.





So glad to be rid of this junk!

Enjoyed a great solo Labor Day ride on the Idaho side of the Continental Divide.  Started at 4000' and topped out around 8200' without touching pavement.  This photo was still in the foothills, at around 5000' or so. The peaks in the background are around 10,000'.

The more I ride this bike, the more I fall in love with it.  With 13/51 gearing and steering stabilizer it's perfect for steep rocky mountain riding!

Enjoyed a 98 mile loop around the SW edge of the Frank Church River Of No Return Wilderness.  This view is looking north towards the Middle Fork of the Salmon River from about 9900' elevation.

Enjoyed a great solo Halloween ride above 7000' on the ridge dividing the Payette and Boise River drainages.

very nice riding area... the views are spectacular.

Did you have to modify the lower chain guide after running the 51 tooth sprocket for awhile?

Thanks, I'm having a blast exploring Idaho with this fun little bike.

I didn't have to make any mods to the lower chain guide.  Just to the upper foot guard bracket, as mentioned above.  I'm really loving this gearing setup for my kind of riding.

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wwguy wrote:

- Pro Taper Evo Woods High Bend handlebars.
- Highway Dirt Bike Ultimate hand guards and upper bar clamp.

do you recall how much you paid and where you got these bits from?

i'm leaning towards that exact combo myself after some reading on thumpertalk

martin_nj wrote:

wwguy wrote:

- Pro Taper Evo Woods High Bend handlebars.
- Highway Dirt Bike Ultimate hand guards and upper bar clamp.

do you recall how much you paid and where you got these bits from?

i'm leaning towards that exact combo myself after some reading on thumpertalk

I paid $316 to Highway Dirt Bikes for:
- Handlebars
- 2 Ultimate handguards
- 2 mirrors
- Tapping the handlebars for the handguards
- Shipping

I also installed the Scott's stabilizer SUB mount at the same time. The combination of new handlebars bars and the Scott's SUB mount raised the handlebar height and increased the width to the point some controls modifications were required. In the photos above you can see that my throttle is mounted upside-down and my clutch cable is routed behind the steering head rather than in front of it. This worked fine but I didn't like the look so I later ordered custom cables from Motion Pro that are 3" longer than stock. I also increased controls wiring by 3" by carefully soldering in extensions and adding heat shrink tubing to cover them. I'm not sure how much of this, if any, will be required if you just add the bars and new risers. A lot will probably depend on height of the new risers.

OK thanks very much. I didn't expect to have to extend the cables/wires.

Perhaps if I don't go the way of the scott's like you said I'll be OK.

I recently posted the same pics in the "Sweet Mods & Bike Accessories" sub-forum but wanted to add them here too for easy future reference.

I ordered a Force Accessories radiator guard from Australia on last Monday and was pleasantly surprised to see it arrive here in the USA on Saturday (while I was out riding.)  Giddyup!  Force Accessories doesn't appear to ship to the USA, so I ordered it online from one of their Australian distributors who does: F1 Moto.

I chose this particular model because it's lightweight, strong, is reinforced with 3 cross-tubes, has a rear brace, and extends beyond the radiator on the sides and bottom.  Price was $118 USD, including shipping.  They also make it in a black anodized version.

I've been happily using this VersaHaul VH-55 RO carrier for the past 9 months and wanted to share in case anyone else is considering something similar.

Pros:
- Solid and strong.
- Four tie-down points.
- Includes an anti-tilt locking bracket that keeps the carrier from swaying back and forth like the cheaper models do.
- Includes a ramp, which stores on the carrier.
- Pass-through hitch mount for pulling additional load.

Cons:
- Not cheap.  I bought mine for $470 on Amazon, including "free" shipping.
- Heavy at 94 lbs. (compared to cheaper aluminum models.)

We've had several inches of snow fall in the mountains since my ride last weekend.  But yesterday was a bluebird day and I was caught up on my work so I slipped away for an afternoon ride through our version of the low country near the South Fork of the Boise River.

The great thing about riding mid-week in November is that I pretty much had the whole area all to myself.  The only downside was that air temperatures near 40 F make it challenging to balance body temperatures between low-speed trail riding and higher-speed forest road riding.  There was a lot of zipping, unzipping, and swapping layers!  A couple of times I had to turn back and/or find alternate routes when I encountered snow on steep trail sections.

Please forgive the image quality in some photos.  All were taken with my moderately-smart phone.

oh my.. .. i'm thinking your like the canary in the coal mine for the snow gradually coming this way..lets hope it melts and stays that way for another month.
I noticed in your carrier post that the front forks are pretty compressed on the WR .. i cut a block of 4x 4 wood to the wheel radius on one end.. to put between the tire and underside of the fender to keep from maxing the fork seals out when the ratchet straps are drawn tight. I've yet to drill a hole in the 4x4 so it can be tied to the wheel to help deter it from popping out of position.

keep the riding area pictures coming!!!!

rarepartbuilder wrote:

I noticed in your carrier post that the front forks are pretty compressed on the WR .. i cut a block of 4x 4 wood to the wheel radius on one end..  to put between the tire and underside of the fender to keep from maxing the fork seals out when the ratchet straps are drawn tight. I've yet to drill a hole in the 4x4 so it can be tied to the wheel to help deter it from popping out of position.

That's a great idea, thanks!  I've got a scrap piece of black ABS pipe that'll probably work perfectly for that.  I think the hole in the pipe will fit around the tire tread in a way that'll keep it from slipping out (if compression isn't enough.)

FWIW I never actually bottom out the forks when I tie them down, and I never leave the bike tied down for any longer than it takes me to drive to my destination.