my new 2015 wr250r

So I bought a new 2015 wr in may and been trying to get on here but got called back to work so haven't had a lot of time. The time I had had I spent putting over 3000kms on the new bike lol just about time to put the new rear tire on soon I think. Ilove this bike and so happy I bought it for my first ever bike I always had quads before. only down side to this bike so far is the seat gets a tad hard on the butt during long rides for myself and the passangers but that's the only real downside I have found so far oh and the fact it doesn't come with a skideplate. but that's the next mod for the bike is the skidplate then some rigid led fog lights and then a new pipe afterthat


Just getting it home


on the lookoff trail overlooking home


at the waterfalls


had to the get rid of the rear fender and put on some new led blinkers


new bars pro tapter yz hi bend


new powermadd handgards with folding mirrors mirrors out


mirrors in.... even folded in I can see more behind me then I could with the stock mirrors only downside is everything looks 2 miles away but it wasn't hard to get use to


now this looks so much better then stock


out playing with a cr500 supermoto

Looks good, but you should know better than to play with that red stuff, hahaha how much taller are the new bars compared to stock, I was thinking of bar risers but those look pretty nice, cheer`s

lol the big red bike cold seized the motor last week good old 2 stroke 500s not really a street bike hahaha

The new bars I love they are more wider then taller. The hight and width of the bars has made it to the point I can feel the input from when I pull the clutch and let off the gas to shift wanting to turn the bars even. But that could just be me being a new rider still with only 3100kms of seat time on a bike. I like the stock feel but I wanted just a tad higher and a tad wider. I'm very happy with these bars. as for the hight well the hight is 84mm stock I'm not sure my stock bars got bent and twisted when I dropped the bike after getting it on an mx track but here's the bends of all the se bars http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se again I'm very happy with the bars and the cables were not affected but the added hight but its close don't think I'd go much higher.

Very good Protaper chart, thank you.

One other thing I noticed Yamaha did not include are rim locks. Might be worth adding a set while you are changing the tyres. I have the light weight ones form motion pro sitting here waiting to go in but have been lazy and have not need to remove the tyres as yet.

Fiftygrit wrote:

Very good Protaper chart, thank you.

your welcome it was nothing really someone made it

speersie wrote:

One other thing I noticed Yamaha did not include are rim locks. Might be worth adding a set while you are changing the tyres. I have the light weight ones form motion pro sitting here waiting to go in but have been lazy and have not need to remove the tyres as yet.

yeah I thought about it but when I went to change the tire I thought nope I wont be needing the rim locks what a pain in the a$$ to to change it was tight and the rim I noticed was full of sharp little teeth to hold the tire place..... next time ill let the bike shop change the tire.

Got some more goodies in the mail

No bike stand that's ok I got a car hoist and a 4x4  


FMF power bomb header, Q4 muffler, FMF power commander and dynojet exup block off kit






New flatland skidplate

Looks good

Don't forget to open up the airbox too, it adds as much power as the pipe and is a must do if adding a pipe and programmer IMO.

I'll be looking into getting it opened up at some point. most likely when I get a good day without a lot of mugginess in the air ill be putting it on a the bike dyno to tune it all in perfect. That I would think would be the best time to play with opening the air box as well then I will know ill have the right air/fuel mix.

Can you post up some dyno numbers after you do?

I never had a chance and wont spend any money to put mine on a dyno.

I tuned my fmf programmer by feel, I set it rich then backed it off a tiny bit at a time until the bike ran best, I ended up at fmfs recommended settings except for the 5th one its on 6.

I also bumped the CO setting up to 6 and the idle speed up to 1900-2000rpm, It starts and idles better like this plus is harder to stall while lugging offroad, if you do a search theres instructions on how to do this on here somewhere.

I will do my best to get print outs or screen shots of the dyno numbers. as well as what I end up setting my programmer at.

its only gonna cost me about $40 to do a run and tune on the bike dyno here. way I see it is $40 is cheaper then blowing a motor guessing at air fuel mixtures.