noob questions

hello everyone! i am a new member from Greece. i own a white WRR (eu model)

i have some power issue. i want the bike to accelerate better. the loss of power at 3000-4000 due to the eu restrictions is really anoying. i am really thinking of some mods. first of all i dont want to make any airbox mods. i like the job to be clean and reverseable. i think of an fmf or barrel delta slip-on. no pc for start! maybe some sprocket change for some extra acceleration. the question is....

the fmf or barrel will fit the stock header? i need pc to work properly? what about the sensors and the FI?

thank you!!

sorry for my english...

You can remove airbox door. You won't see it and it's you can put it back on later. Yes a slip-on will fit the stock header pipe. It will work just fine without a fuel controller. Please post pics of your bike!!! Oh yeah, Welcome!!!!

aibox door?! i will check that. here is one

Yes, remove right side plastic, pop out door hinges...done!!! Nice bike!!!

thanks for the info... any suggestions about the sprokets? i need more power, +1 front?

+1 will lose power, you either want to go down to a 12T (-1) on the front, or go 3+ or 4+ on the rear (stock 43T to 46T or 47T).

The stock gearing and airbox design aren't intended for performance the way the bike comes off the showroom, but instead, they're all choked-up and geared very tall to pass performance-snuffing regulations.

Are you doing any off-road riding with regularity?
If so, I'd go with a 12-tooth front and a 45-tooth rear if you want to keep the same chain.
I ran this setup for a couple thousand miles and it's much better.
If you don't mind buying a longer chain (110 links), 12/48 sprockets are even better, still.
Even with these ratios, you can still comfortably cruise (and I say cruise, not top speed, which is even faster) 60mph with 12/45 sprockets and 50mph with 12/48 sprockets on the street easily.
Just be aware that the WR-250R and X have the speedometer pickup off the front sprocket shaft (like most bikes designed today), so if you want to bring the speedometer and odometer readings back down to normal after you change sprockets, buy yourself a speedometer recalibrator.

Also, if you plan on riding through deep water, think twice if you do remove the airbox door since your air inlet will be much closer to the ground.
Most riders remove the airbox flapper parts and fasten down the airbox flapper at the top of the airbox.
Benefits are that it's much less likely for water to enter the airbox and end your day prematurely and much less intake noise (which can be pretty loud with the door off - this is the reason the snorkel on top of the airbox reaches so far down inside of it).
It's your call. :)

Although you say you don't want to, I think you're missing the performance boat by not installing a Power Commander or similar fuel programmer.
Lots o' gnads there for the taking with one of these.
I don't live in Europe and the USA bikes don't come with an O2 sensor in the exhaust, but there must be somebody over there that knows the details on that. :)

skierd wrote:

+1 will lose power, you either want to go down to a 12T (-1) on the front, or go 3+ or 4+ on the rear (stock 43T to 46T or 47T).

43-46 with the saim chain?

YZEtc wrote:

Are you doing any off-road riding with regularity?
If so, I'd go with a 12-tooth front and a 45-tooth rear if you want to keep the same chain.

never actually. i am a street racer, i own a GSXR1000. this is the reason i need a clean bike with nopc or other mods. 12-45 with the same chain will give some acceleration?

Even with these ratios, you can still comfortably cruise (and I say cruise, not top speed, which is even faster) 60mph with 12/45 sprockets and 50mph with 12/48 sprockets on the street easily.

i dont care about the top speed. 60 miles are fine for me.

Just be aware that the WR-250R and X have the speedometer pickup off the front sprocket shaft (like most bikes designed today), so if you want to bring the speedometer and odometer readings back down to normal after you change sprockets, buy yourself a speedometer recalibrator.

typical problem....

Also, if you plan on riding through deep water, think twice if you do remove the airbox door since your air inlet will be much closer to the ground.
Most riders remove the airbox flapper parts and fasten down the airbox flapper at the top of the airbox.
Benefits are that it's much less likely for water to enter the airbox and end your day prematurely and much less intake noise (which can be pretty loud with the door off - this is the reason the snorkel on top of the airbox reaches so far down inside of it).
It's your call. :)

no water problem....

Although you say you don't want to, I think you're missing the performance boat by not installing a Power Commander or similar fuel programmer.
Lots o' gnads there for the taking with one of these.
I don't live in Europe and the USA bikes don't come with an O2 sensor in the exhaust, but there must be somebody over there that knows the details on that. :)

actually i love the stock fuel consumption (do i spell that right?), the pc will make a big defference? the o2 sensor will be removed and the fi will blink. somehow you can fix that, i have to ask.

i think i will try the 12-45 setup. maybe a slip-on next summer... if i like the result i will think about the pc.....

restrictions suck

thank you all for your answers!!!

Why did you get the R model and not the X model if you never plan to go off-road?

r model looks better?

motokid wrote:

Why did you get the R model and not the X model if you never plan to go off-road?

nice question. 1) i had plans about off-road riding but all my friends have ss. maybe after april 2010 i will go again. i went once past summer. 2) i love the white colour 3) i like the enduro tyres, i hate road tyres (road tyres are more expensive) 4) my city (athens) is worst than a mountain. crappy roads like anything you have ever seen. 5) i always dreamed of an enduro bike. i still love it, i just need +5hp. only 5....

@motokid

attitude is like a pc but cheaper right? is that working good?

http://www.attitudeindustries.com/products.php?pr=37&PHPSESSID=2f86ff9931abc4cb67b696f86270fe6e
3 different versions?!?

Attitude is like FmF - not like Power Commander.

It adds fuel only. Does not allow you to take away fuel.

When I bought mine, there was only one choice.

edit: the newest version of Attitude allows you to take fuel away - make it leaner. Not sure why anyone would need to do that?????

motokid wrote:

Attitude is like FmF - not like Power Commander.

It adds fuel only. Does not allow you to take away fuel.

When I bought mine, there was only one choice.

edit: the newest version of Attitude allows you to take fuel away - make it leaner. Not sure why anyone would need to do that?????

take away?!

my bike needs 5 lt for 120km. about 1.3 galons for 70 miles. (stock) what about yours? i want to see if the difference is big. the power gain after the attitude? no exhaust??

My friend, these are 250cc four stroke singles.

You have a 1000cc Sportbike.

You'll never feel like you have "power" on the WR relative to the liter bike.

A programmer isn't going to make you feel like you've gained 5 HP.

With a complete exhaust, a programmer, airbox mods, AIS removed, and some gearing changes you will get maybe 5 more rear wheel HP.

But it still won't compare to your Gixxer.

That doesn't mean your WR won't be much more fun to ride though.
I sold my Yamaha R1 to get the 250x.
Best thing I've ever done.

motokid wrote:

My friend, these are 250cc four stroke singles.

You have a 1000cc Sportbike.

You'll never feel like you have "power" on the WR relative to the liter bike.

A programmer isn't going to make you feel like you've gained 5 HP.

With a complete exhaust, a programmer, airbox mods, AIS removed, and some gearing changes you will get maybe 5 more rear wheel HP.

But it still won't compare to your Gixxer.

That doesn't mean your WR won't be much more fun to ride though.
I sold my Yamaha R1 to get the 250x.
Best thing I've ever done.

haha. i just want to gain some acceleration and fill the power loss of 4000rpm. i bought it just for fun and i am completely sutisfied. i dont want a 40hp bike for fun, i could buy a wrf instead. i think i'll start with the gearing change (-1 front). barrel delta(i love this slip-on) is the next step, propably the last...

i found something

Quote :

Great stuff HF! That's a nice smooth curve you ended up with. Well done. Let's summarize:

First run with the following modifications:

* K&N air filter element in place of factory foam
* AIS disabled
* Graves insert in place of the stock spark arrestor
* airbox flapper valve glued down
* FMF fuel injection mapping device

22.1 Hp & 14 ft-lbs Torque

Add FMF header and Q4 exhaust and FI dialed to 3-5-0.5-8-4-4:
24.5 Hp & 16 ft-lbs Torque

Remove top of air box:
26.8 Hp & 17 ft-lbs Torque

so if you want to five hp more you have to do first little modification..

awen wrote:

i found something

Quote :

Great stuff HF! That's a nice smooth curve you ended up with. Well done. Let's summarize:

First run with the following modifications:

* K&N air filter element in place of factory foam
* AIS disabled
* Graves insert in place of the stock spark arrestor
* airbox flapper valve glued down
* FMF fuel injection mapping device

22.1 Hp & 14 ft-lbs Torque

Add FMF header and Q4 exhaust and FI dialed to 3-5-0.5-8-4-4:
24.5 Hp & 16 ft-lbs Torque

Remove top of air box:
26.8 Hp & 17 ft-lbs Torque

so if you want to five hp more you have to do first little modification..

Hmmmm.....what's your source? Those HP numbers seem really low compared to what I've seen.

Most stock HP numbers I've seen seem to be around 27-28 HP.
Modified with pipe, programmer, and airbox changes and the numbers are typically more like 30-32 HP.

motokid wrote:

awen wrote:

i found something

Quote :

Great stuff HF! That's a nice smooth curve you ended up with. Well done. Let's summarize:

First run with the following modifications:

* K&N air filter element in place of factory foam
* AIS disabled
* Graves insert in place of the stock spark arrestor
* airbox flapper valve glued down
* FMF fuel injection mapping device

22.1 Hp & 14 ft-lbs Torque

Add FMF header and Q4 exhaust and FI dialed to 3-5-0.5-8-4-4:
24.5 Hp & 16 ft-lbs Torque

Remove top of air box:
26.8 Hp & 17 ft-lbs Torque

so if you want to five hp more you have to do first little modification..

Hmmmm.....what's your source? Those HP numbers seem really low compared to what I've seen.

Most stock HP numbers I've seen seem to be around 27-28 HP.
Modified with pipe, programmer, and airbox changes and the numbers are typically more like 30-32 HP.

mods mods mods

i agree with motokid. the eu model in dynojet 200= 25,6hp stock! 32hp with full system-pc-k&n!


i removed the air box door for a quick ride.

results: when the throtle turns, the sound is like a bass amp.
nothing else! no power gain. (i have the european model)

i think i will make 1 or 2 holes on the air box door. maybe on the upper side. under the seat.