WR290R Big Bore installed update with Dyno info

I could see that....

Sarah

boogn1sh wrote:

My only remaining question is about reliability, especially with the added compression. I want this mod so bad...

This would be my question too! In my on running debate between the WR and the 610 one of the big pluses the wr has is stone cold reliability and an itty bitty maintenance routine. If this kit injured either of these it would be a no go for me even though it answers the biggest concern I have with the WR and that is it is a little underpowered.

Anyways I guess time will tell on these kits....thanks for sharing.

I just went over 400 miles with the Big Bore Kit. I have not seen any difference other than a lot more power. My WR starts everytime, idles perfect, and restarts easily when I make short stops. I wish Yahaha would just make a WR300, its the best Dual sport I have had. and I have had several....

dbparti wrote:

I just went over 400 miles with the Big Bore Kit. I have not seen any difference other than a lot more power. My WR starts everytime, idles perfect, and restarts easily when I make short stops. I wish Yahaha would just make a WR300, its the best Dual sport I have had. and I have had several....

I really hope this thing is bullet proof!

Great write up. Makes me want to abandon my plan to put 5k miles on it before tackling engine internals.

Now its time to tackle the Baja 500 and those pesky CR450X and KX450F's.

Sounds like it's all good so far. Thanks for keeping us posted.

Sarah

How are the engine vibes with the bigger bore??...

Adding the Big Bore kit did not add any vibrations. This last weekend I installed the Yamaha $59.00 skid plate and notice that it did amplify engine sounds. I'm sure this is common without the big bore kit as well....

Foam weather-stripping tape on the bike frame took care of the racket for me.

Sarah

PonchoV wrote:

I can see a tech day w/ ten wr250. All being taken apart by their riders for this mass mod together.

OK, maybe just five guys & one gal.....from Kentucky.

Do it before April, Sarah - that way I can ride it at the Thumper Thaw But then again, I don't see you name on the list of people attending. What gives?

Yeah you guys cant count me in on a group discount if any one gets ahold of them...

matttys wrote:

PonchoV wrote:

I can see a tech day w/ ten wr250. All being taken apart by their riders for this mass mod together.

OK, maybe just five guys & one gal.....from Kentucky.

Do it before April, Sarah - that way I can ride it at the Thumper Thaw But then again, I don't see you name on the list of people attending. What gives?

BB Kit will have to wait a while....I'm still about to choke at the thought of ordering the $$$afari tank.

I'm working on those vacation days.

Sarah

I really want a bigger Tank, but a review said you only get a total capacity 3.35 Gallons. I carry two MSR bottles for now. Does anyone know if Safari will increase to a true 3.6 G?

Seems I read most folks get better than 3.35. Big Dog got 3.66

http://bigdogadventures.com/WR250R.htm

Sarah

Sarah,
That was great reading...3.66 is a good number. I may have to pull the trigger as well. After jusr spending $1000.00 on the BB whats a few hundred more. Im sure glad the wife doesnt read my posts!

I just installed my big bore kit

I have a powerbomb and powercore 4 I am still messing with the thing to get it to run good. It definatly has a lot more torque already, but I am getting close to maxing out the programmer. I made a call to dubak and they said if I need more fuel then the range of the programmer, I can send it in and they will reprogram it for free. They also suggested using the YZ programmer instead. I am thinking of skipping it and just using the Athena add on instead. I would have done it already just to try it if the athena kit didn't require me to hack the wiring on the bike so bad.

I will tell you this, I did get a lot more high rpm vibration with the kit. I had a major stalling problem, but I fixed that by turning up my idol (large Phillips head screw sticking out the left side of the throttle body)

Also, if any of you are considering the kit, get a service manual. The instructions that come with the kit are poorly translated at best and flat out misleading at worst. If you know someone at a dealership, they can download a service manual off the online dealer system (YDS)

also, I am running a 13/45 combo with 110 in my chain. I was running 12 43 and all it did is peel out when I took off, and make 1st gear much less usable, and make the rpms scream going down the highway. I also did notice a little vibration at high speeds, but nothing to get too excited about. Remember gearing on a bike only significantly affects 3 things. 1st gear, 6th gear, and shift points.

Crazy Monkey wrote:

I just installed my big bore kit

I have a powerbomb and powercore 4 I am still messing with the thing to get it to run good. It definatly has a lot more torque already, but I am getting close to maxing out the programmer. I made a call to dubak and they said if I need more fuel then the range of the programmer, I can send it in and they will reprogram it for free. They also suggested using the YZ programmer instead. I am thinking of skipping it and just using the Athena add on instead. I would have done it already just to try it if the athena kit didn't require me to hack the wiring on the bike so bad.

I will tell you this, I did get a lot more high rpm vibration with the kit. I had a major stalling problem, but I fixed that by turning up my idol (large Phillips head screw sticking out the left side of the throttle body)

Also, if any of you are considering the kit, get a service manual. The instructions that come with the kit are poorly translated at best and flat out misleading at worst. If you know someone at a dealership, they can download a service manual off the online dealer system (YDS)

also, I am running a 13/45 combo with 110 in my chain. I was running 12 43 and all it did is peel out when I took off, and make 1st gear much less usable, and make the rpms scream going down the highway. I also did notice a little vibration at high speeds, but nothing to get too excited about. Remember gearing on a bike only significantly affects 3 things. 1st gear, 6th gear, and shift points.

What programmer? Which big bore kit? Athena?

I've heard good and not so good things about Athena. I think when I go big bore it will be the Thumper Racing kit.

I have just hit 1200 miles on my Athena BB Kit, the only issues I had is trying to get my FMF Programmer set to my liking. After several adjustments I now have it about where I want it, I had a small mid throttle hesitation. I will have to go look at my final settings and post them. I am very happy with the performance and cant imagine ever going back to the stock head. I need to get a helmet cam and show everyone how bad ass quick my WR is. I do a lot of mountain trail riding and have plenty of torge on the low end, and instant power when I need it. On the road I normally dont go faster than 70, but have no problem pulling 70 up hills. And yes I mean actiual 70moh , I have the 12oclock speedo adjustment dohickey. Just FYI, I have not tried the electronic FI box that came with my kit, I dont want to mess with my wireing. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried it.

oops my bad

Athena, FMF

I am finding that I keep creeping closer and closer to the max settings on my fmf. also I have noticed that when the injector stops firing, like when I am coasting without grabbing the clutch the fmf unit with flash the two outside lights, indicating that its not getting juice from the injector, and my bike will backfire a little.

here's some more tips for programming your fmf from my own experience, take it for what its worth

Typically if you backfire, your not getting enough fuel, turn it up a little (the mode to adjust depends on which mode is active when this happens)
If you nail the throttle and it falls flat on its face, before giving you a shot of power, this means your giving it too much fuel at that time, or your full throttle or acceleration mode are engaging too quickly (watching the lights to see witch mode it is in when this happens, or taking note if your accelerating hard under part throttle, or if your flooring it will help you decide which mode to adjust.)
if you turn down the sensitivity(by going to a higher number) of acceleration or full throttle modes, this will sometimes allow you to ad more fuel in these modes without the bike falling flat on its face. in other words when making adjustments to one mode, remember to think about what other modes and settings may be affected.
If the power seems to fade out at high rpm, turn up the green mode. you bike will revert to green mode at high rpm in some conditions.
If your bike runs well when its cold out and not when its hot out, your probably giving it too much fuel (the opposite is also true) I sometimes even adjust the programmer for the weather.
the way you ride can affect how you will want to set up the programmer. when I am off road I like my fuel a little lower for a crisper, and more consistent throttle response, making it easier to use the power of the bike to control my movement in technical conditions, while on the road I like it a little higher for overall horsepower.
As your muffler packing burns out, you bike will get leaner, meanign sometimes it will be nessesary to turn up the fuel a litle at a time until its time to re-pack, then turn it back down when you do.

Crazy Monkey, thanks for all the information on the FMF, I am not geting any back firing at all. If I nail the throtle I have no hesitation. When I'm crawling up long hills in the dirt, I will get a minor hickup at 1/4 throtle in 3rd gear, but I ride between 4000 and 8000 ft, so that just may be altitude. I have my FMF installed by the battery, so I cant see what it's doing. My FMF settings are 4 6.5 6 .5 .5 .5 , the best change I did was go to .5 on the last three settings. I did not adjust my idle, the WR is a little cold blooded but after about a minute of riding, its warm enough and idles fine and never stalls. When I had my FMF set 3 5 4 8 8 8, I had problems stalling and hot start issues. All that is gone now, it may be the Athena just had to break in a bit. On the vibration, I have not noticed any major change, when I did the head I also added the Yamaha Skid plate, I hear a lot of engine noise because I did not add rubber between the frame and the plate. I need to do an accurate MPG test, but as a habit I allways fill up before I leave the house. I live in Hereford AZ, and we have many canyon and mountain roads within 15 minutes of my house. I too have a powerbomb and powercore 4 with a K&N with extreme modified airbox. I have also takien off all the emisssion junk. Please let me know if try the Athena electronic FI. My problem is the same as yours I dont want to mess with the wiring.

Good summary on the FI observations and adjustments.


Any one have any significant milage on their big bore kit?
Is it still holding up after a few thousand miles?

I just got my Wr a few months ago and can live with it the way it is for now but!
I would like to know how the long term reliability is.
There are a lot of tight woods with big hills and some long mountain passes on the road that I think the added power would make a big difference on.
Thanks for all the posts keep us updated.

I just pulled the trigger on an Athena 290 Kit (w/o Module) for my 2008 WRR. I'm a bit confused by all of the different FMF PowerProgrammer settings that folks on here, ADVRider, TT & SMJunkie have posted.

The current performance mods on my bike are...

- FMF PowerBomb Header, Q4 & Power Programmer (mounted on top of the airbox)
- Airbox Flapper Removed / OEM Air Filter
- AIS System Removed


Here are all of the suggested settings that I have found...

- dbparti (WRR/X Forum) - 4, 6.5, 6, .5, .5, .5 (w/ K&N Air Filter)

- grinns (ADVRider) - 4, 6.5, 6, 4.5, 1, 1 (w/ K&N Air Filter)

- zcookie49 (SMJunkie) - 5, 6, 8, 1, 5, 4.5 (WRX w/ same mods as mine)


I'm looking for a good starting point for the settings. Although I live in MD, the bike is stored in Las Vegas and is ridden primarily in 3000' - 9000' elevations.

dbparti - your posts have been the most helpful - thank you. Are you still running those settings? Are you still happy with them? Any thoughts on where the settings might need to be different due to the OEM Air Filter?

Any suggestions / insights are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

mtntrails wrote:

I just pulled the trigger on an Athena 290 Kit (w/o Module) for my 2008 WRR.

I would think the Athena kit documentation would provide the proper settings. I have a Thumper Racing big bore installed with Q4/Powerbomb, no AIS and gutted airbox and I am using: 5 6 8 1 5 4.5

You put yours on last year didn't you Richard? What kind of run time do you have on it now?