2013 wrr bump starts and runs but won't button start or idle

Also,, I did not lap the new valves after reading that lapping Ti valves will wear through the thin hard coating and lead to valve wear. guess it's fine with SS valves on other bikes.

matthepp wrote:

Any recommendations for this mini break-in period?

I would recommend a compression test to see where you are now, and you can use that value in the future as a reference. Since you already have the tools, a leak down test would also be useful.

Did you end up installing new piston rings? If yes, I would take it easy for the first few hundred miles; if not, give the new valves about a hundred miles to adjust.

matthepp wrote:

Also,, I did not lap the new valves after reading that lapping Ti valves will wear through the thin hard coating and lead to valve wear.

The manual says that you use new valves to lap the valve seats, then you throw them away and use another pair of new valves as final replacements. Essentially, you sacrifice one pair of valves in order to use them as a lapping tool. Anyway, too late for that now, eventually the new valves will seat themselves.

Hope you recuperate fast!

Thanks John. Knee is feeling a teeny bit more stable every day with ice and braces. I skipped the rings against your advice. I figured "one variable at a time" as far as my learning curve goes. And I'm too much of a dirtbag to waste expensive intake valves for the lapping. Other reports say that perhaps the hard valves will seat themselves quickly against the softer seat material. I can always do it all over if if doesn't work. I will send a report after some miles.

I'm a big proponent of only-one-change-at-a-time, but in a case like this where an additional change takes so much time and effort, I would have made an exception; kudos for sticking to this principle!

Let us know how it goes.