Swing arm unders side groves from chain

I see your point about a 12ct vs 13 or 14ct sprocket, but honestly I think it would make VERY little difference. Chain tension has to be the major problem.
-I also agree this is another "design flaw" of the wr250r-

*Who was the dealer/guy that said a wr250F chain guard would work on our rr? That one was a wrap around style that would protect better then our stock one, would it not? Granted, you have to disassemble the swing arm, but thats a good thing with having to grease it and all.

OK, then we pack the swing arm (o/s) w/ BTV & buy the F guard & we should be good for another 3,000 or so?!?

Just kidding for those who just tuned in.

But tension on the chain was increased by the factory early on & now it may be in part the reason for our swing arm scaring. That & harder riding?!?

Just widening the discussion.....

I check my tires and chain tension before every ride, just because. Better to catch it then than after you're out in the bush or on the road and notice that silver dusty coating on your slider and chain.

i put on a 14t front sprocket when i first got my wr.. it fits with no rubbing or problems. But it was too high with the stock rear sprocket, so i went back to the 13. When i replace chain & sprockets, i'm planning on getting a bigger rear sprocket to go with the 14 front.. i'll also need a few more chain links with the new chain.

I'm with the stock 13 front, & have not had an issue with the chain cutting into anything. Early on i had the chain slip issue, but i tightened the chain up & that was resolved.

scotty, did you lower your mono shock a bit at the tri-link?
Am trying to find a link as to what I have adjusted & the under swing grinding problem.
wolfgang

I did the stock lowering bit, & added the yamalink. I have the sag at about 3.5". I don't recall my shock clicker settings.. i think they are a couple of clicks softer than the default factory settings. No other changes or mods from stock.

It almost sounds like a 12t issue, except that not everyone who has gone to the 12 has it. very perplexing.

I can vouch for that. Still have the 12, still have the same chain, still have no swingarm chewing. Just the slider wore a bit, but it hasn't penetrated the swingarm. Mine's lowered as far as it can go.

The reason why I asking about the shock adjustment at the bottom &/or any additions like the tri-link & the yamalink is that when the swing arm flex in the upwards direction there is a wrap around of the moving chain happening at the swing arm.

I know, this is extreme but it is still happening. It is happening even w/ 300+ lb riders. I had a bud sit on my x & ride it a bit & then stand up on the foot pegs & bounce up & down. The chain would not flex but the swing arm sure did.

My thoughts are even when a lighter rider is riding hard & encountering small jumps w/ pancake lands, the swing arm is moving so far upward that the chain has to wrap around the front of the swing arm.

This area of the bike was designed to flex at the middle downward under a heavy load. That heavy load can take the form of dead weight or a very lively drop/compression.

Here is why I removed my lowering tri-link just before going to Moab. If ever there is a ride which requires clearance & a skid plate this is it. I still ate up the chain slider. So I'm going to put the adjustment back to stock at the bottom of the mono shock.

Think I'm going to need some platforms mounted under my cross fires.

Some bikes take to lowering w/ little issues. Our wrr/x are indeed a very tight package w/ a wide range of usage.
We just need to keep in mind some of these limitations as we go about adjusting & subtracting parts just to be a little more comfortable when coming to a stop.......OUCH!

It sounds like posting here has helped a few others to our common problem, yet unseen by many.

I'm putting the Black RTV under my chain slider just for that extra protection....thanks

SheWolf,
You are a kinder, gentler soul & therefore we could all take a lesson as to how best make our wr(s) last longer.

If you rode w/ Sir Scotty & myself you'd be either hating us or ready to join the dark side...........actually........never mind.

Just stay that sweet girl w/ a pocket full of matches, that we all respect & want as our first responder when the alarm goes off.

I have no intentions on changing. I is what is is. I know not everyone agrees with things I say, and that goes the other way. But you can be damned sure that if I come across a fallen rider, regardless of who they are or where they came from, I'll be the first one to lend a hand. If I have a spare part that someone needs, I'll be the one handing it over or better yet, helping them fix it.

I have 1200 miles on a stock set up. The underside rear section of my guard is grooved maybe 3/8" deep. No grooves on the front near the samll sprocket. The top side has some wear, but seems minor. Chain tension is set as specified in the manual for a 2010. Tried loose and tight and see no evidence of more or less grooving. This post got me worried so I rode it to the dealer to ask. He looks at it, pushes the chain, and says "dude, this is normal" .

Sorry for bumping this thread...just a quick question.

Has anyone found a replacement for the chain guide? Better them OEM?

Not sure if it's called a chain guide but here is the Yamaha Part #3D7-22151-00.
I took this # from the Yamaha parts sticker on the part bag.

There are other #s on another sticker next to the bar code.

Glad to post them if anyone wants.

If there is a good group buy, post it here & it may be worth it to ban together.

Was anyone able to confirm that the 250F swingarm chain slider would work? If so, I am getting one. I just wore through a brand NEW chain slider in less than 150 miles
Yes, the chain was probably too loose but damn, 150 miles? I'll definitely be adjusting my chain and keeping a close eye on the tension

Poncho V, that part number is the Yamaha stocker.
I've emailed these guys to ask if they have anything for the WRR http://www.tmdesignworks.com/

Oh, I'm sure that Yamaha probably makes a $75+ special tool that you are supposed to use to put the 36lbs of pressure on the bottom of the chain to check the tension per their TSB. I found these........ http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Door-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B001C7N0KC from Amazon. They are used to check the pressure it takes to open the doors on a commercial building to see if they comply with ADA (I work for a commercial glass company and we use these to check if a door is in compliance or not). They only go to 35lbs but I'm sure that is close enough.....They are still $28 but if you want the right tool to do the job, this is it. One of them is going to find it's way from my office to my toolbox........

Scott P.

I bought a used 2010 WRR in December. I just came across this thread and went into the garage to take a look. This is what I found.




Am I screwed?

KC

NO not screwed, unless you do nothing.

If it were mine & that looks like mine, I'd clean the area after removing the old slider & layer the are w/ UTRA BLACK.

Press the damaged area (grooves) to fill them smooth & layer it up just before putting on the new factory rubber slider.

Hope this helps to de stress the feeling of buying a grooved scoot.

as long as it hasn't gotten into the bearing yet you're cool. mine was at least that bad. it was deep enough the the chain pins were rubbing the area between grooves.

I took f/sprocket guard off every wash but got slack and didn't for more than a couple of washes and when I next did I found deep grooves. I was kicking myself only had it from new a few months purchased Dec 10. Front of slider looked to have broken off and chain was loose. Im handy with a spanner but wasn't knowledgable. Mate and self installed yamalink and chained tensioned. I'm a novice. Was coming home from work and watching motox for weeks. EG, Thurs nite decided that next day buying a bike. Missus went out for the day and I bought 250r. She came home and well the 3 weeks of pain she gave was and still is worth it. I still ify with chain tension call into local yam dealer to get a quick check up. Could say bit paranoid. Could someone point me somewhere to easy understanding of a tensioning my chain myself. I have w/s manual but obviously didn't get it right. Bugs me I don't do this myself. I removed the front guard so I can have a quick look anytime. I run a 13T/50T. Im determined to master keeping it on the back wheel. I put a GYTR b4 left dealer and a 48T rear. Find the 50T makes it easier to lift the front, haven't mastered but always trying, not getting to enjoy as much these days due to commitments. If got any pointers do tell. Lastly is there a metal open guard available. I also use 12oclock speedoDRD, works great. Asked a couple of Yam dealers in area (Australian) told could fix calibration. I was persistent and found it. Anyway sorry for going off track but just thought give bit of idea y I ended up with grooves. LEARNING. I've learnt heaps since I joined tonight..

"Lastly is there a metal open guard available."

You mean, like this?

KC0514 wrote:

I bought a used 2010 WRR in December. I just came across this thread and went into the garage to take a look. This is what I found.




Am I screwed?

KC

Just replaced my chain and sprockets, took a wire brush and cleaned off the area and found that mine looks pretty similar.

As long as it doesn't get any worse it should be fine right? Is it possible for me to just have it TIG welded up?

What's the long term effects?
I would think that if this is such a bad problem that Yamaha would have issued a recall.

BTW: I had to scrape grease out of the grooves so I know it was caused sometime before I bought the bike. I keep my chains kind of tight.

xathor wrote:

Just replaced my chain and sprockets, took a wire brush and cleaned off the area and found that mine looks pretty similar.

As long as it doesn't get any worse it should be fine right? Is it possible for me to just have it TIG welded up?

What's the long term effects?
I would think that if this is such a bad problem that Yamaha would have issued a recall.

BTW: I had to scrape grease out of the grooves so I know it was caused sometime before I bought the bike. I keep my chains kind of tight.

Click here: click me now You need a new one of those.

You should buy a new chain slider immediately and replace whatever worn out piece of crap you currently have.
Please post pictures of whatever it is you remove.

Also - a tight chain is your enemy.

Please refer to the sticky on chain adjustment.

A chain that's too tight is more likely to cause this kind of damage than a chain that's too loose.

Others who have has this issue have simply filled the grooves with JB Weld and been happy as clams from then on.

check out my photo page "i bleed blue" , it seems to work. a few hrs of cleaning and fixing

[quote="motokid"]

xathor wrote:

Also - a tight chain is your enemy.

Please refer to the sticky on chain adjustment.

A chain that's too tight is more likely to cause this kind of damage than a chain that's too loose.

Others who have has this issue have simply filled the grooves with JB Weld and been happy as clams from then on.

+1 imo. I have seen this, and agree. My bikes have never suffered slider wear from running a loose chain. In fact it's better to do so, as any trash running inside the chain and over the sprockets is less likely to cause damage eg small rocks.

The other thing that is guaranteed, again imo, to chew out the bottom slider is soggy suspension setting. On the other hand, I've munched out a top slider from too-hard suspension.