Engine doesn't start right up!

Hello all,

I'm a new here, I got a brand new 2010 WRR about a week ago.

My bike is Japan version (I live in Japan), I dunno the differences between other versions.

The bike now has about 250km, changed oil and filter at 200km. I know what I'm doing with the break-in....

Here are some questions I wanna ask.

1. The engine doesn't start right up sometimes, especially after a ride, engine off for 10 min, then the engine doesn't start, crank it for 10 sec, not starting. But eventually the engine starts at 2nd attempt. Since it's a brand new bike, I expect it could start right up! I had it for many times, sometimes had it in a morning cold start. I own couple of Yamaha's bikes, they all start right up. no problem at all!

2. strange noise on corners (pavement road), the bike had some metal hitting noise on conrners at speed 70km/h over, I don't know where the noise came from, but I really want to fix it. I suspect it's coming from the chain.

Do you guys have the same problem?

Thanks!!

Hot starting can be difficult. I believe there are threads on this forum which blame it on the fuel pump not building up fuel pressure when you have briefly turned off the engine while it is hot. I always kill mine with the key, so the pump always runs a bit when I turn the key back on. It's generally only a problem for me when I stall it out and don't cycle the key before trying to restart.

The grinding sound could be the valve train, brakes scrubbing or about anything. I've noticed on all my bikes that you can hear a lot reflecting off of the pavement that you normally can't hear while riding straight up. Riding by walls often times gives you the same effect. My FZ1 sounds like it is going to explode if I stick my knees out as opposed to keeping them tucked against the bike. Oh well. Good luck.

Hey, your in Japan. Simply ride it over to Yamaha and ask. Just Kidding.

Regarding starting, my only thought is to confirm that you are allowing the fuel pump to fully cycle on before hitting the start button. I found that it take longer to start if I get to eager and hit the button before the pump finishes its cycle. With my 2010, it starts hard if I stall it, or even when cold if I ride a short distance and not allow it to warm up. If I shut it off and restart it takes longer for it to catch and fire up.

I agree. Try this to confirm: Cycle the pump twice before starting, and see if it "cures" the problem. Do this by turning the kill switch on before you turn the key on. Then turn the key on until the pump stops (about 2 - 3 seconds). Turn the key off, then repeat. Then hit the start button WITH THE THROTTLE CLOSED.

If this gives you reliable starts, it's normal. It may get better with more use.

Thanks for the replies, good to hear that I'm not the only one who has the same problem.

I always wait for the fuel pump fully cycled before starting the engine. Little disappointed, as I expect a fuel injected engine could start right up under different conditions, that's why I choose this bike.

Also, I have one more question. As per service manual 3-12. The manual says I have to check oil pressure after oil change, I really don't understand why do I need to bleed the oil after oil change. What is the catch? What if I don't do it, am I gonna break something? Can anyone tell me?

I didn't bleed it, coz I think it's not necessary.

Bleeding is not needed. I've done it 0 times, and have 10,000 miles on the WR with no trouble.

The metallic noise could be a lot of things... the stock chain and sprockets are noisy and mine clattered a lot... possibility?