"Tamer" Throttle tube

Anyone using one of these ? - http://g2ergo.com/shop/catalog/G2-Tamer-Thottle-Tube-for-Yamaha-223.html

Instead of a round throttle tube it's non-linear, more like a cam, intial throttle openings are on the smallest diameter part,
then the diameter increases at larger throttle openings. Supposed to give a finer control at low throttle openings and offset the instant on/off of FI, and make my r2 as smooth as the mighty TW200 I rode at the Team Oregon riding school *grin*

I'm assuming a new piece of rubber thingie needs to be slid onto the tube (dunno what you guys call it...). Do you try to match the left hand grip or what ?

The only thing I dislike about the r is my inability to ride it smoothly at low speeds and small throttle openings

I have the G2 and like it, just remove your OEM throttle sleeve and install this one. Mine came with the "400" cam and so far i like the way it feels. The Delrin bushings installed make this a very smooth throttle. I think it helps the jerkiness, but it is not a dramatic difference as adding a new sprocket setup, adding a EFI tuner like the FMF or Dynojet...but it has helped...USA made and built great. You may want to get a new set of grips if you get any throttle sleeve as the OEM are glued on pretty good....and they suck anyway...

looks like something that could help my KTM 690. for the WR, i'm going to wait for the auto clutch to come out this summer.

Bob wrote:

looks like something that could help my KTM 690. for the WR, i'm going to wait for the auto clutch to come out this summer.

Tell me more???

so is that the model we use for the wr?

Shoot off an e-mail, tell them what you have and they will set you up with the right one. Many sites who have things for Yamaha bikes don't show stuff for the WR, but if you ask they will tell you. DRD pipes is a perfect example. They don't show the slip-on for the WR but upon asking, they most certainly carry it.

SteveRed wrote:

Bob wrote:

looks like something that could help my KTM 690. for the WR, i'm going to wait for the auto clutch to come out this summer.

Tell me more???

Rekluse will have the auto clutch in late summer. just have to wait for it to come out. i sent them an email, but got no response. you can try it too. the clutch for the 250f will not work.

i called Rekluse today and it seems they are dropping the ball with the clutch for the WRR. Revloc is more than willling to make custom auto clutches for any bike for just a bit more $$. they all ready made one for the WRR and i'm going to call them back tomorrow. they told me they might even make it into production since more people are calling about our bike. so give Revloc a call and maybe it will go into production soon.

PQRS... wrote:

so is that the model we use for the wr?

i called about this too. they said the one for the YZ250F is the same. i'm thinking the tube might help more than changing the cam. what do you guys think that have tried this?

the guy said alot of guys are going with the slower cam for our bikes. he didn't understand why until i told him the WRR is a 90 mph dirt bike. now that i have the auto clutch, i'm not so sure i need a slower cam.

i went a head and got the G2 throttle cam system. the problem is now the throttle cable housing is too tight. if i tighten the bolts all the way, the throttle stickes wide open. any one else have this problem? do they make a bigger throttle housing for the WRR? maybe from the WRF?

i had to put the bolts at less than tight just so i can go riding tomorrow.

I would double check your work, you should have some red of the tube sticking out from the grip to the housing... As I recall you could put the housing over the tube wrong and have issues, mine is as tight as it can go and zero problems...smooth as silk....make sure you are not clamping down on it somehow when you tighten it up.

yeah, i'll take it off and give it a look. this is the only time i've ever had so much trouble getting the 2 pieces of the housing back together. but i do have some of the red tube sticking out like it should be.

it was the alignment pin. i forgot to grind it off when i changed the bars.

That will do it, glad you found it. How do you like it so far?

So received a throttle tamer from another in the forum. I have installed it on my WR and there seems to be no way to get the throttle housing reassembled that it would move freely. I see one cable hole is round and one os oblong. Both cable ends are round on my bike. I have assembled and reassembled it three times but cannot get it working. The paperwork says it is for FJR1300A 05-12 part number 40-4y-142. the cam number is Y400. Do I have the right product?

littleblue wrote:

So received a throttle tamer from another in the forum.  I have installed it on my WR and there seems to be no way to get the throttle housing reassembled that it would move freely.  I see one cable hole is round and one os oblong.  Both cable ends are round on my bike.  I have assembled and reassembled it three times but cannot get it working.  The paperwork says it is for FJR1300A  05-12  part number 40-4y-142.  the cam number is Y400.  Do I have the right product?

That part # is for a street bike.  You want the "Dirt Tamer" tube #40-4Y-HYK, as indicated on the G2 Ergonomics web site.  See my recent post here for notes on my recent installation.

Most throttles with push/pull cable sets have throttle tubes with one round and one oval hole.  The circular hole is for the acceleration "pull" cable and the round hole is for the deceleration "push" cable.

wwguy wrote:

littleblue wrote:

So received a throttle tamer from another in the forum.  I have installed it on my WR and there seems to be no way to get the throttle housing reassembled that it would move freely.  I see one cable hole is round and one os oblong.  Both cable ends are round on my bike.  I have assembled and reassembled it three times but cannot get it working.  The paperwork says it is for FJR1300A  05-12  part number 40-4y-142.  the cam number is Y400.  Do I have the right product?

That part # is for a street bike.  You want the "Dirt Tamer" tube #40-4Y-HYK, as indicated on the G2 Ergonomics web site.  See my recent post here for notes on my recent installation.

Most throttles with push/pull cable sets have throttle tubes with one round and one oval hole.  The circular hole is for the acceleration "pull" cable and the round hole is for the deceleration "push" cable.

I have heard from the seller and he has agreed to take it back but insists it fit perfectly on his bike. I think my problem may be a small "relocating tab" in the housing that I havnt filed off.

Do you have any experience with the "tab?

exactly what is the difference between the street and dirt version?

I have checked fitment on the website and it only lists one for the 2016 WRR.

Are not all the WRRs the same? I will try and call the maker of the device tomorrow.
Thanks
Larry

littleblue wrote:

wwguy wrote:

littleblue wrote:

So received a throttle tamer from another in the forum.  I have installed it on my WR and there seems to be no way to get the throttle housing reassembled that it would move freely.  I see one cable hole is round and one os oblong.  Both cable ends are round on my bike.  I have assembled and reassembled it three times but cannot get it working.  The paperwork says it is for FJR1300A  05-12  part number 40-4y-142.  the cam number is Y400.  Do I have the right product?

That part # is for a street bike.  You want the "Dirt Tamer" tube #40-4Y-HYK, as indicated on the G2 Ergonomics web site.  See my recent post here for notes on my recent installation.

Most throttles with push/pull cable sets have throttle tubes with one round and one oval hole.  The circular hole is for the acceleration "pull" cable and the round hole is for the deceleration "push" cable.

I have heard from the seller and he has agreed to take it back but insists it fit perfectly on his bike.  I think my problem may be a small "relocating tab" in the housing that I havnt filed off.

Do you have any experience with the "tab?  

exactly what is the difference between the street and dirt version?  

I have checked fitment on the website and it only lists one for the 2016 WRR.  

Are not all the WRRs the same?  I will try and call the maker of the device tomorrow.
Thanks
Larry

I also see that the cable ends on my bike are both round. I am being told that one of them is round and one is oval.

Is that your experience?

The PO says nothing has ever been don with the cables and he is the only owner!
Larry

littleblue wrote:

I have heard from the seller and he has agreed to take it back but insists it fit perfectly on his bike.  I think my problem may be a small "relocating tab" in the housing that I havnt filed off.

Do you have any experience with the "tab?  

exactly what is the difference between the street and dirt version?  

I have checked fitment on the website and it only lists one for the 2016 WRR.  

Are not all the WRRs the same?  I will try and call the maker of the device tomorrow.
Thanks
Larry

The tab on the throttle cable housing fits into a corresponding hole in the stock bars to keep it from rotating at an inconvenient time.  With aftermarket handlebars and/or anything that requires relocating the controls you have two options:
1) Drill a new hole in the bars at an appropriate location (my personal preference) or,
2) File or grind the tab off and rely on friction etc. to hold the housing in place.

If you drill a new hole in aftermarket aluminum bars there's no need to drill all the way through.  Just enough to seat the tab will suffice.  Some riders say that drilling holes in the bars weakens them.  I suppose this is technically correct but it's worth pointing out that the OEM bars come this way and I've never, ever, heard of premature bar failure as a result of this.  My Pro Taper bars currently have 3 holes in them and I ride my bike off-road aggressively without issues.

littleblue wrote:

I also see that the cable ends on my bike are both round.  I am being told that one of them is round and one is oval.  

Is that your experience?

The PO says nothing has ever been don with the cables and he is the only owner!
Larry

Yes the cable ends are both round.  Only the throttle tube holes for the push cable are oval.  In this case a round peg fits nicely in an oval hole.

WWguy

What is the difference between the street version and the dirt version?

littleblue wrote:

WWguy

What is the difference between the street version and the dirt version?

I don't know. I just know that there are two different versions. The street tamer is more expensive and doesn't show fitment for our bikes.

Just got mine last night when we got home from work, so of course had to install it.

Feelings on it are mixed from riding it around for 15 minutes around the property. Still doesn't cure the "throw the anchor out" compression braking with the throttle closed, and still has a bit of a light switch effect when opening the throttle a little. Also, the throttle cable badly needs to be adjusted after the install as it adds a bunch of slack to the cable when you install the G2. The cam is smaller that stock initially, which adds play. It was getting dim out when I quit riding it around, so I'll iron it out this weekend.

Is it an improvement? To an extent. Yes, the throttle responds a little better down low. It's a little smoother at low throttle openings, but I'm not calling it cured. Also, you have to twist it a bit more to get moving, and you have to whack it a bit more to try to get the front end light. That's a learning curve thing, and I'll get used to that. Just wanted to point out that it's there, and you will notice it.

I think I'm going to get access to the throttle body this weekend, crack the throttle blade a little, then adjust idle with the bypass. I think it's the only way I'm going to address the light switch on and off effect. I think about half of it is that the engine has good compression, and combined with the throttle closing all the way at idle, there's a lot of compression braking that makes it feel even more harsh.

I try not to ride in that throttle area, but every now and then I end up in a narrow, tight rock garden that requires finesse and low speed. I'd like it a bit more balanced. The adjustments will continue.

I find it interesting that so many different WRR riders have so many unique experiences with throttle operation on these bikes.  The variety of mods, adjustments, and workarounds that affect this are pretty complex.  Some that quickly come to mind are idle speed, gearing, throttle cable play, TPS angle adjustment, CO adjustment, and aftermarket EFI controller programming (which opens up a whole new can of works or opportunity, depending on your programmer of choice and the map you select.)

For me TPS angle adjustment to 18-100 made the most impact reduction in twitchiness, with some additional minor improvement by reducing throttle cable free play and playing with idle speed (currently around 1750 RPM.)  The G2 hasn't made the remaining twitchiness disappear, but it did help smooth it out by making it occur more slowly at the sensitive range near idle.  It was one piece in a puzzle that's probably more complex than it should be.

Traveller wrote:

Also, the throttle cable badly needs to be adjusted after the install as it adds a bunch of slack to the cable when you install the G2.   The cam is smaller that stock initially, which adds play.

Interesting.  Mine only had a little bit of slack, which I was able to quickly adjust out via available range in the cable on the handlebar end.

Traveller wrote:

Is it an improvement?   To an extent.   Yes, the throttle responds a little better down low.  It's a little smoother at low throttle openings, but I'm not calling it cured.   Also, you have to twist it a bit more to get moving, and you have to whack it a bit more to try to get the front end light.  That's a learning curve thing, and I'll get used to that.   Just wanted to point out that it's there, and you will notice it.

I think I'm going to get access to the throttle body this weekend, crack the throttle blade a little, then adjust idle with the bypass.  I think it's the only way I'm going to address the light switch on and off effect.   I think about half of it is that the engine has good compression, and combined with the throttle closing all the way at idle, there's a lot of compression braking that makes it feel even more harsh.  

I try not to ride in that throttle area, but every now and then I end up in a narrow, tight rock garden that requires finesse and low speed.   I'd like it a bit more balanced.   The adjustments will continue.  

I do enjoy and aspire to ride narrow tight rock gardens... perhaps more than is practical for a 300 lb. dual-sport.  As part of my practice and training I frequently putt around the driveway and street in front of my house after work doing tight full-lock figure 8's in 13/51 1st gear at idle or near-idle speeds.  In this environment, and in similar situations on the mountain, I really noticed fine-tune nuances in the EFI twitchiness and associated engine braking.  The G2 tamer has improved the first for me, but not the latter.

The engine braking on this bike is really something else.  It's great when you need it, but a major PITA when you don't... like when I need to take my hand off the throttle for a brief instant to scratch my nose or push the record button on my GoPro.

Speaking of GoPro and G2 tamer... If interested you can see and hear how my throttle operates in this trail ride from last weekend (same as previously posted over on my photo thread.)  No need to watch the entire video.  I think you can get a pretty good idea from the first minute or two.

I got mine installed fine. I also didn't remove the handlebar pin, ARGH! Operation is smooth and no throttle cabe adj. was necessary. I did stay with the silver "street tamer" (I got it for a good price) with the correct cam. It is longer than I like but was able to make it work fine. If I like it, I may go ahead and order the red "dirt Tamer" that is the shorter length. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet.

Just a quick note after adjusting the cable at the throttle end and riding it this weekend. The throttle action is improved from my initial ride. Evidently the opening cable having quite a bit of slack in it really threw off the response curve. I still have too much slack in the cable, but the adjuster is out to the last couple threads. It was already adjusted way out from the factory. It needs to be adjusted out more at the throttle body end to where the handlebar adjuster is in the center of the range.

Bottom line, it rode better and felt better at low RPM yesterday than it did initially. Once the slack is gone, I think it will be pretty decent combined with cracking the blades just a tiny bit. Since I have to take things off to get to the cable at the throttle body, I might as well crack the blades a little. I think it's going to be a worthwhile mod.