oil question

I wanted to do the oil pressure bolt thing, but I could not get my socket in there and I didn't want to scuff up the bolt with my wrench ... its still running great

I don't think anyone really has used it, I never have and no problems.

Do so many of you really not use that weep plug?!? Why not? Too hard to get to? Messy? Lazy?
Just curious why you would want to forgo an easy step that ensures proper function? Ive worked on cars, bikes, trucks, and heavy machinery. I have never heard of such a thing as this plug, that being said it must be there for a reason or it wouldnt be there at all, just like every other motor. Its funny how people think they know things just because "nothing has happened to me" or " Ive never heard of that, it must be there for looks."
Call me crazy....... but for the price of a rebuild kit or new motor, fuk that Ill just take 15 sec. and crack this lil plug.

Also, Mobil oils are shitty. Use a good oil after break in, its the life blood of your bike. As mentioned before, NO CAR OR TRUCK OILS!! OIL FOR MC ONLY DUH!!
But on the other hand, if all yall slack in maintenance, there will be lots o stuff for me to bid on on Ebay!!! HAHAH JK kinda...

Well, in 40,000+ miles of WR250R ownership I've never touched that plug on my oil changes. Never even looked at it, and couldn't rightly find it if my life depended on it right now. If I ever tear down my motor completely and need/want to check that my oil pump is pumping, i'll give it a go. Till then I'm not digging to the back of my engine for a hard to find, harder to retorque, easy to forget, not really needed bolt every damn time I do an oil change (which is about every month).


Additionally, the only specification for oil in the manual is for JASO MA or API SG rated 20w40 or 10w30, if you have a 2008 manual. Funnily enough, you can't even buy factory oil in those weights anymore...

Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w40, its current and newest formulation, maybe be big rig Diesel truck oil, but its Jaso MA rated and is API SH (superceeds SG, but is an old enough rating to not require moly and other gunk formulated to make car motors more efficient and cause motorcycle transmissions to slip) rated. Its $20/gal at Walmart or any well-stocked truck stop or auto store, or $6/qt, and lasts as long or longer than any motorcycle oil I've tried (typically I change when the shifting quality goes clunky) for half the price.

I dont know man. I am more of a "I did because it says..." not a " I should have so I will..."
I am a machinist, so I am a little overboard on by the bookness!!! It drives me crazy sometimes!! But thats great about 40k on your ride! Do you ride it hard, or is this a bike you got to pamper?
I like to rip on mine!

I switched in some Rotella diesel 15/40 and the bike shifts a lot smoother. It's sunny today and I'm gonna go for a rip. I also don't use that little plug. Even the Yammie techs said it's not necessary and they only had it there for the initial build of the engine.

You do it your way, I'll do it mine. No one can fault you for going by the book.

Hey Dave...don't forget to tighten up your plug...

personally I wouldnt trust a yamaha tech fully. I worked at a Yamaha shop and they would employ people that didnt have any formal training in bikes!! It was FU@@ING OJT!!! Thats right, your baby is being wrenched on by a first time wrench and your paying high dollar to do itI!! Craziness if you ask me. I would take my bike to a independent shop before any stealership IMO. I have always worked on all of my toys and I just couldnt blow by a simple safety/ function check and feel 100% about crankin on lil blue. I just like to look after my toys/ money more carefully than taking advice from a guy that just used a pair of channel-locks on your drain plug!

onelove wrote:

Do so many of you really not use that weep plug?!? Why not? Too hard to get to? Messy? Lazy?
Just curious why you would want to forgo an easy step that ensures proper function? Ive worked on cars, bikes, trucks, and heavy machinery. I have never heard of such a thing as this plug, that being said it must be there for a reason or it wouldnt be there at all, just like every other motor. Its funny how people think they know things just because "nothing has happened to me" or " Ive never heard of that, it must be there for looks."
Call me crazy....... but for the price of a rebuild kit or new motor, fuk that Ill just take 15 sec. and crack this lil plug.

Also, Mobil oils are shitty. Use a good oil after break in, its the life blood of your bike. As mentioned before, NO CAR OR TRUCK OILS!! OIL FOR MC ONLY DUH!!
But on the other hand, if all yall slack in maintenance, there will be lots o stuff for me to bid on on Ebay!!! HAHAH JK kinda...

I don't use that stupid bleeder, and never will.

It's useless and a waste of time.

If my engine blows up because of lack of use of that screw I'll buy a KTM and never look back.

I had a 14,000rpm FZR400 and no bleeder screw.
I had an R1 and no bleeder screw.

I've been around motorcycles and racebikes for decades and never once heard about a bleeder screw.

I might only use that device if I did a complete engine tear-down and rebuild.

For routine oil changes....FUCK IT.

But that's just my philosophy. You are free to use it until the cows come home.

onelove wrote:

personally I wouldnt trust a yamaha tech fully. I worked at a Yamaha shop and they would employ people that didnt have any formal training in bikes!! It was FU@@ING OJT!!! Thats right, your baby is being wrenched on by a first time wrench and your paying high dollar to do itI!! Craziness if you ask me. I would take my bike to a independent shop before any stealership IMO. I have always worked on all of my toys and I just couldnt blow by a simple safety/ function check and feel 100% about crankin on lil blue. I just like to look after my toys/ money more carefully than taking advice from a guy that just used a pair of channel-locks on your drain plug!

The guys I deal with have been wrenching on Yamahas all their lives. We have one guy on here who did it for years, and is now a rep with Yamaha, so I will trust them well before anyone else.

Thank you for your permission to use the bleeder screw on MY bike.

Man, this site must have everyone thinking the same way, cause if you think different you will get jumped on.
Ill be the independent lemming on here and do as I please, and I can because I live in the USA baby!!!

I will try not to post to much on here because I dont want to upset the herd... I thought this site would be good for very specific info on the bike and to meet good people. But Im not really finding much of ether.
Oh well, lesson learned.

It's all good. Everyone has their way of doing things, and most of us don't screw with that screw. Trust me, we don't all think the same. You haven't met Jager yet, have you.
I'm very independent and I don't live in the USA AND I do whatever the hell that I want. I'll stick to my backyard in the sticks and dammit, if it isn't that bloody peanut again...

Onelove, I am 100% with you.. Everything goes buy the book.. Every bolt gets torqued as required etc. I come from a road race back round. 125 and 250 GP to be more specific. HUGE maint. with GP bikes. When you do your $3-5K rebuild and follow the book through its life it is amazing how the parts wear just as the book says over its 15 hour life. It will say to check something at 600 miles and sure enough its on its way. It has saved me COUNTLESS $$ over time. A piston lasts 4 hours or 350miles. I cannot tell you how many guys have bought a new $1000 cylinder (no i do not re-plate) and the $250 top end because they wanted that extra hour and a half. Yamaha spent a LOT of time and money to figure all this stuff out. Its worked for me for years and I am not changing now. But that is just me...

Yes there are a lot of personalities here. Keep asking questions. The good ones PM you in the back round. There is some really good information within the membership.

I had a plug like that on my Yamaha xt550., but it was handy. Right next to the oil filter cover, so I would loosen it up till the oil started coming out and then close it. I always thought it was to prevent an air lock. Why else whoud you have it. I think it was just bull shit instead.

onelove wrote:

Do so many of you really not use that weep plug?!? Why not? Too hard to get to? Messy? Lazy?
Just curious why you would want to forgo an easy step that ensures proper function?

Kind of all of the above. But mostly because the local Yammy shop says they don't bother, 99.9% of the other people here don't bother and I don't think we've heard of a blown engine yet - for any reason - on the this and the other related WRR forums. I fire it up, the oil in the sight window instantly drops - success. I doubt most people even eyeball the sight glass.

Quote :

As mentioned before, NO CAR OR TRUCK OILS!! OIL FOR MC ONLY DUH!!

Well, here's where we could go sideways into an oil discussion. I got a little brother who's a petroleum engineer and a middle brother who's been wrenching over 30 years on everything from Harleys & two stokes and race cars, to the biggest haul trucks in the world and now Challenger main battle tanks. They both give the big seal of approval to Rotella T for the scoot; I use it in both the Ram 2500 Cummins diesel and in the bike. I think between the two of them, they're sufficiently qualified both by training and by their occupations to give me good advice on what oil to use.

The thing about motorcycles is that it is one of those "Do whatever you think is right" things, doesn't matter what other people think you should or should not do. If you're right, you're right; if you're wrong, you get the bill.

I'm not going to tell you you're crazy to use the weep plug or to use nothing but motorcycle oils. But I won't be unless things start happening.

onelove wrote:

Man, this site must have everyone thinking the same way, cause if you think different you will get jumped on.
Ill be the independent lemming on here and do as I please, and I can because I live in the USA baby!!!

We have a few differences of opinion on things here. Independent thought always welcome. I don't agree with you on the weep plug/oil thing, but I don't think for one moment it's for me to say you should do it my way. In fact, I'll agree that even though I won't do it your way, you're probably safer to some unmeasurable degree (but I'll still do it my way).

I wouldn't pay a lot of attention to anyone who feels the need to lecture you on how to properly work on or ride your bike. Chances are they've never met you and no idea of your background, experience, lots or little, etc. What works for one guy doesn't work for the next.

Quote :

I will try not to post to much on here because I dont want to upset the herd... I thought this site would be good for very specific info on the bike and to meet good people. But Im not really finding much of ether.
Oh well, lesson learned.

You won't upset the herd. If your opinion upsets them - well, sucks to be them, I guess. You won't get grief for telling somebody to bugger off, you'll do as you please, either. That's what I would do.

Lots of good WR info and people here. Most of us good and helpful. Some not so much. "Life is like a box of cherries... " etc. You probably have the wrenching and riding experience to tell the difference.

Enjoy.

onelove wrote:

Thank you for your permission to use the bleeder screw on MY bike.

Man, this site must have everyone thinking the same way, cause if you think different you will get jumped on.
Ill be the independent lemming on here and do as I please, and I can because I live in the USA baby!!!

I will try not to post to much on here because I dont want to upset the herd... I thought this site would be good for very specific info on the bike and to meet good people. But Im not really finding much of ether.
Oh well, lesson learned.

I assume you're being a bit sarcastic and mostly humorous in this response, but if not please let us know now so we can adjust our responses to your posts and questions accordingly.

This is the BEST site you'll find anywhere for R/X information.

If you're THAT sensitive perhaps a nice step-through scooter would be a better choice of motorcycle for you?




(last line is a joke - and all of my posts in this thread are 100% not typed in anger, or as attacks, or as condemnations of anyone's beliefs, theories, or ideologies. so please don't read some uninformed intent into what I've posted. In fact....almost everything I post at this forum has me looking like this behind the computer screen - )

And BTW Im not sensitive I just dont have time for stupid people, and there useless comments. Life is too short.

Jager thank you for staying on topic and giving some very interesting/ new knowledge. You seem like one of the guys that is sitting on a wealth of knowledge just waiting to be tapped into!! Thats great!!
I honestly think that most of the people on here are good, just like life. YOu just have to know how to weed out the bad/ worthless ones. Again, just like life.
And now I wait....

You still here? I thought you left !

I guess thats what you get for thinking!
Maybe you shouldn't try so hard, you might break a hip...

Whoa ok, let's just put a damper on the insults whether meant in anger, honesty or just sarcasm in here please. This is going off topic (AGAIN); if you want to start a thread on how you feel please feel free to in the Off Topic area.

BPG wrote:

surprised it hasn't been mentioned already - whatever oil you use, make sure it is NOT "energy conserving" (this info can be found on the little round logo on almost all oil containers - if the words "energy conserving" appear there, run away!)

Wet clutches and friction modifiers cause slippage. Thus don't use any energy conserving oil. Myself I use Mobil1 Synthetic 0-40. It is NOT energy conserving and most wear occurs when an engine is cold, thus the 0W.

I too am a big fan of the Rotella oils, both the 5W40 T6 or the 15W40 dino are excellent choices. I tend to listen and learn from folks who know more than I do about certain things, and the Rotella oils have been highly recommended by many of those people. I have run either variant in every single bike that I have owned and still currently own, nothing but good things to say about the stuff. Now as far as "SCAMSOIL" is concerned.......I think that shit is overpriced and over-hyped snake oil.

GreenStreet wrote:

BPG wrote:

surprised it hasn't been mentioned already - whatever oil you use, make sure it is NOT "energy conserving" (this info can be found on the little round logo on almost all oil containers - if the words "energy conserving" appear there, run away!)

Wet clutches and friction modifiers cause slippage. Thus don't use any energy conserving oil. Myself I use Mobil1 Synthetic 0-40. It is NOT energy conserving and most wear occurs when an engine is cold, thus the 0W.

+1 on the Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. It runs great in my WRR and is superior during the winter. Curiously enough, it didn't perform that great in my Triumph street bike- the shifting became "notchy". I quickly drained it out and went back to 20w-50, at least for the summer. I'll probably revert to 10w-40 for the winter for that machine.