Turn signal relocation.

Before



After



Right Signal



Left Signal



Remove the green bolts first to remove the headlight and fairing to gain access to the wiring harness, 8mm.







With these six bolts out, then the fairing and fender will drop down. I found the H4 socket was very tight on the bulb, otherwise I would have disconnected it to remove the minimal strain on those wires. I rested the back of the headlight bucket on the lower triple clamp and the front of the fender on the tire.



With the wiring harness exposed, I was able to release the wire tie so I could reuse it and that gave me access to the covered turn signal plugs.



Once the wires are unplugged, unbolt the turn signal brackets with a 10mm socket from the triple clamp. When I pulled the bolts, I put them back in to place as they also held up other brackets on each side, so they wouldn't fall down.

If you were to just swap the signals from side to side, you will end up with this look



Yea, they are pointing way up in the air, not good. This is why you need to do the following things.

The rubber part of the signals (yellow) are pushed through the bracket and held in place by a black plastic piece (green).



You need to lift up the two rubber pieces that hold on to the plastic piece



Once you pull the plastic away, you can pull the wire and plastic piece through the mount (sorry for the blurry photo)



Bracket free of the signal



Here is the right bracket mounted on the right side of the bike (stock position)



This is the left turn signal bracket mounted to the right side of the bike; quite a bit closer to the center line of the bike.



Make sure you mount the signals right side up. There should be no screw showing on the top



This is the bottom of the signal, keep this pointing down.



Here is the right signal mounted on the left signal bracket, with the rubber pushed through the bracket, but the plastic piece isn't locked in to place.



Right signal mounted in the bracket, ready to bolt on.



Right signal mounted up to the triple clamp again.



Right and left signals are all mounted up, in their tucked in position. Make sure you plug the connectors back in (grey to grey, black to black) and pull the black plastic cover over them. Push the wire tie back together and bolt the fender and fairing back on.



Once it is all bolted back together, turn on the key to make sure your lights light up correctly.



So, it looks like each signal is sucked in about 1.5" on each side. Even if you aren't planning on getting the IMS 4.8 gallon tank, this could help keep your signals out of harms way in a tip over better than the stock position.

I hope this all makes sense and helps folks out.

John

Even if I never do that John, that was a very well done tutorial.

Well done and thanks a lot!

No need to drop the fender, the headlight shell will pop off it. If the grommets pull out replace them in the fender holes before popping back together.

I see you didn't rotate the brackets the way I did.

That's a great tutorial. Although, that's a lot of work to keep the ridiculous over sized flotation sized signals.

trav72 wrote:

That's a great tutorial. Although, that's a lot of work to keep the ridiculous over sized flotation sized signals.

Why keep the signals?

1. Help keep the bike upright in deep water crossings!
2. They are paid for.
3. Increase the frontal visibility of the bike with the built in running lights.

I was in my truck a month or so back, and saw a motorcycle coming towards me. It was a very tiny looking bike, thinking a 150cc scooter or something. When it passed me, it was an SV650, just like what I ride. I was shocked at how small the bike looked coming right at me. No wonder so many people try to pull in front of me. Any way for me to be seen on an even smaller bike, I will do it. I have been hit by a car on my SV650 before, and I still hurt from it. This was 9 years ago now. I work with the trauma orthopaedic surgeons for the northwest's only level 1 trauma hospital, so I get to see XRAYs of motorcycle accident victims while hanging out with the surgeons. I am trying to keep me from being one of their customers.

This modification should take about 30 minutes to do, start to finish, and costs you nothing.

John

+1 I can attest to that...that's how I lost my DT200 years ago. Old lady made a left hand turn in front of me, after 4 vehicles had already gone by and she decided to turn as I was going thru the intersection. 2 surgeries on my knee, and I still feel it when the weather changes or if I do a lot of climbing. That's why I went with the HID, much brighter . The low beam is a lot brighter than my stock high beam was!

trav72 wrote:

That's a great tutorial. Although, that's a lot of work to keep the ridiculous over sized flotation sized signals.

I think the intent was to get a ridiculous over sized gas tank on our bikes...SOON!!

speedfiend wrote:

I think the intent was to get a ridiculous over sized gas tank on our bikes...SOON!!

Yes I know that. I just think if you are going to all that work you might as well upgrade to some LED signals and kill two birds.....

I thought the oem's were led.

Anyway the only bird that really matters is the one that holds 4.8 gallons of gasoline and if a piece of paper with instructions on relocating the signals gets it to us than print up some copies and start shipping tanks.

speedfiend wrote:

I thought the oem's were led.

Anyway the only bird that really matters is the one that holds 4.8 gallons of gasoline and if a piece of paper with instructions on relocating the signals gets it to us than print up some copies and start shipping tanks.

No they are not LED.



Nice write up. I'd do it if i didn't already burn those hideous things.

You have to give Yamaha some credit on those turn signals. They are very durable. I have slammed mine into branches and small trees several times. They did not break.

No use in defending something functional against the fashion nazis, kewlness is what really matters. But I still remember the bad old days with the crappy baja designs dual sport kits and I'm also impressed with the WRR's durable lights. I haven't changed a bulb in three years vs. three rides with a baja kit.

speedfiend wrote:

No use in defending something functional against the fashion nazis, kewlness is what really matters.

Yeah, that's the reason people like to change to LED's. For the 'kewlness factor'.

Feel free to give a practical reason.

trav72 wrote:

ridiculous over sized flotation sized signals.

Hertz wrote:

those hideous things.

speedfiend wrote:

Feel free to give a practical reason.

LED's are brighter, no bulb replacement, less electrical draw.......are those sufficient enough practical reasons for you?

How about you keep yours stock and I won't. Everyone's happy.

This is an awsome idea...... I wish i'd thought of it (or seen this post) before I ordered the LED's.

trav72 wrote:

LED's are brighter, no bulb replacement, less electrical draw.......are those sufficient enough practical reasons for you?

How about you keep yours stock and I won't. Everyone's happy.

But then I'll have to put up with the fashion nazis calling them "ridiculous" and "hideous".

But those are lame excuses anyway, the stocks are plenty bright, haven't burned out in three years, and certainly don't dim my headlights as they blink the way the baja ones did before I changed to LED on my XR.

speedfiend wrote:

But then I'll have to put up with the fashion nazis calling them "ridiculous" and "hideous".

But those are lame excuses anyway, the stocks are plenty bright, haven't burned out in three years, and certainly don't dim my headlights as they blink the way the baja ones did before I changed to LED on my XR.

Debating stock turn signals is very stimulating. Follow the OP tutorial and keep the stock ones.