Lose power while cruising

Yeah, no mods during these two years, also winter riding without any problems.
Yeah, when i purhased Commander, adjustment of map was done while tested in dyno.
Yeah, air filter is clean.
Orginal battery 2008, how it can be issue in this case ?
Commander is PCIII
I might want to play with map's ;-)

It would be worth having the battery load tested (on a MOTORCYCLE battery load tester set for that size of battery) if there is even a hint of it not having enough juice to turn the bike over as it should.
Wouldn't be a bad idea, regardless.

A couple of riders reported batteries not at 100% health causing running problems, and some reported that the battery lead securing bolts being loose caused trouble.

The bike has electronic fuel injection and needs the correct amount of electrical power to run the electronics.
Sure, the bike's generator supplies electrical power, but it might not be enough it low engine revs without a battery at 100%.

The air filter is clean, but how long ago was it serviced?

I charged my old battery and ride 200km today.
New battery is coming.

BUT now it died four times in high speed, not anymore in low speed !
Just driving, nothing with clutch or throttle, just BOOO and started normally after that.
Is this now fuel pump issue ?

With new air filter and new battery same problem occurs, while cruising and with higher speed.
Lean angle sensor ? How it can be bypassed for test ride ?
I will disconnect Commander ?
Any other hints ?

Anyone else have this same problem ?

Today: noticed that bike do not start untill "engine" warning light shuts off.
Is it so that some of sensor tells to ecu to shut down this bike ?
I check the lean angle sensor and it behaves just like that,
When it is active "engine" light is on untill it is in right position,
But what other sensors shuts down the bike ?

I've got a 2015 WR250R and I've done the typical mods including the FMF PP, AIS, flapper, FMF Q4 exhaust - and I've got similar cut-out issues - very seldom does it but it ONLY happens when cruising at highway or near highway speeds and when being steady on the throttle. Cuts out - causes me to be surprised, I let off the throttle and it comes back to life.

I don't have a record at the moment of my FMF EFI PP settings but I'll take a look and give a shot at these mods. It really un-nerves me wondering if it'll leave me stranded one day. I was assuming fuel pump until this thread and all the commonality here says it must be the FMF - I've considered taking it out of the loop for a few months too - but I like the settings change given what I'm seeing from others.

Anyone else have happy/sad reports using the settings change?

Thanks,
bob

robobob68 wrote:

I've got a 2015 WR250R and I've done the typical mods including the FMF PP, AIS, flapper, FMF Q4 exhaust - and I've got similar cut-out issues - very seldom does it but it ONLY happens when cruising at highway or near highway speeds and when being steady on the throttle. Cuts out - causes me to be surprised, I let off the throttle and it comes back to life.

I don't have a record at the moment of my FMF EFI PP settings but I'll take a look and give a shot at these mods. It really un-nerves me wondering if it'll leave me stranded one day. I was assuming fuel pump until this thread and all the commonality here says it must be the FMF - I've considered taking it out of the loop for a few months too - but I like the settings change given what I'm seeing from others.

Anyone else have happy/sad reports using the settings change?

Thanks,
bob

Pull the the FMF Power Programmer and you will not have the cut out issues.

I ran a modified exhaust and intake like your bike for awhile with the FMF and only got rid of the cut out when I set the last 3 numbers all to 8. My buddie has a 2015 and has not been able to completely get rid of his cut off even with setting changes and has learned to live with it.

I also ran a PCV and never had issues with cut out.

Right now I have been playing around with the bike (2012 - 16,000 miles) and am running a Q4 Megabomb setup with all the air box mods and no programmer. Contrary to popular internet lore the bike is not lean in it's stock form - actually a bit rich at WOT.

However, while the bike is not lean it is also not optimized for it's best performance (emissions not withstanding) in it's stock form. The only way to do that is to hit the dyno and have them adjust the fueling. A good dyno guy will dial the bike in for power, throttle response, and power delivery. Just don't be surprised if your fuel economy takes a hit.

Then again you need to ask your self is all that headache worth the extra 1 or maybe 2 hp that you will get.

rsteiger wrote:

Pull the the FMF Power Programmer and you will not have the cut out issues.

I ran a modified exhaust and intake like your bike for awhile with the FMF and only got rid of the cut out when I set the last 3 numbers all to 8.  My buddie has a 2015 and has not been able to completely get rid of his cut off even with setting changes and has learned to live with it.

Good stuff - thanks for the input. I'd actually be fine just "living with it" if I knew for certain it was just a glitch in the FMF and therefore I wasn't afraid of winding up stranded somewhere. So, I suppose I take the FMF off for a few months and prove out that it never happens - and then put it back on with confidence whether different settings solve it or not.

THANKS!
bob

robobob68 wrote:

rsteiger wrote:

Pull the the FMF Power Programmer and you will not have the cut out issues.

I ran a modified exhaust and intake like your bike for awhile with the FMF and only got rid of the cut out when I set the last 3 numbers all to 8.  My buddie has a 2015 and has not been able to completely get rid of his cut off even with setting changes and has learned to live with it.

Good stuff - thanks for the input. I'd actually be fine just "living with it" if I knew for certain it was just a glitch in the FMF and therefore I wasn't afraid of winding up stranded somewhere. So, I suppose I take the FMF off for a few months and prove out that it never happens - and then put it back on with confidence whether different settings solve it or not.

THANKS!
bob

If I remember correctly all you need to do is unplug the FMF controller from the injector and stock wire harness then plug the stock wire harness back into the injector. No need to physcially remove the unit from the bike. That way if things are good and you decide to live with it then all you need to do is plug those connections back in.

Also try to set those last 3 numbers to 8. All that does is impact when (what RPM) the FMF kicks in on. The cut out problem is fairly well documented on the FMF programmer. Basically at larger throttle openings the WRR runs a bit rich without adding a programmer. The problem is that with the FMF you can only add fuel - you cannot take it away. With the FMF, given the right circumstances the A/F ratio becomes too rich and the mixture will no longer burn due to lack of air. The motor stalls out and usually most people release the throttle at that point and pull in the clutch. Now you are at a different throttle and load setting so the motor fires back up because the A/F ratio is correct.

It may also help to check your air filter and make sure it is clean.

rsteiger wrote:

If I remember correctly all you need to do is unplug the FMF controller from the injector and stock wire harness then plug the stock wire harness back into the injector.  No need to physcially remove the unit from the bike.   That way if things are good and you decide to live with it then all you need to do is plug those connections back in.
....
It may also help to check your air filter and make sure it is clean.

Yea - the harness was the plan. I didn't realize the likely culprit was "too rich" though but it makes sense - every time it happens, I let off and then it's fine.

And I just cleaned the air filter after returning from Moab so it's all spiffy.

bob

FYI, I've had this problem since I bought the bike with 2500 miles. I am now at almost 17k miles. I've changed all the settings on the FMF programmer and it got better, but still very occasionally cuts out when cruising in 6th at around 70-75 mph. I have learned to live with it, just blip the throttle and it comes right back.