For the fork, the compression clicker (adjuster at the bottom under a rubber plug) and the rebound clicker (adjuster at the top in the center) are both set at 10 clicks out from full closed.
You can dial the rebound clicker out 24 clicks, or anywhere in between.
The compression clicker can be dialed out 20 clicks, or anywhere in between.
Just keep both fork legs adjusted the same.
I would also double-check to make sure my bottom right-hand fork leg axle clamp wasn't tightened down with the bottom of the fork leg too far inward or outward.
This would cause binding, giving a harsh ride.
I believe that folks looking to relieve what feels like too much compression damping would just turn the compression clicker out until it suited them.
The rear shock compression clicker comes set at 7 clicks out, and can go all the way to 12 clicks out from fully closed.
The rear shock rebound clicker comes set at 13 clicks out, and can go all the way to 25 clicks out.
Same here - dial out the compression clicker and experiment.
Would be a good idea to see if your weight in the seat compresses the rear suspension 3.5 inches as compared to the rear being fully extended.
That's a big deal.
If you want to know my suspension settings on my 2008 WR-250XX:
Fork compression clicker: 12 clicks out.
Fork rebound clicker: 10 clicks out.
Fork oil: KYB 01
Fork oil level: 115mm
Fork tube height raised 3mm (dropped ride height 3mm).
The rear shock was overhauled and revalved by Go Race Suspension in Virginia, so I doubt the clicker settings and what not would correspond to a stock shock.
I can tell you it works very well, indeed.
When I rode a 2008 WR-250R last year, I actually turned the compression and rebound clickers in a fair bit, especially the rebound, which I set at the maximum of 3 clicks out.