cooling fan override switch

i have a buddy with a drz with a cooling fan override switch...
dose any one have one on a wr250 or have any idea how to make one?
i might not be able to since its a smart bike (FI) instead of a dumb one (carb)
haha

i think it would be nice in the summer to just switch it on when you hit traffic since our bikes will just shut off when they get hot

bobbytohn wrote:

i think it would be nice in the summer to just switch it on when you hit traffic since our bikes will just shut off when they get hot

Do you still have the stock radiator guard on it?

Heoz wrote:

bobbytohn wrote:

i think it would be nice in the summer to just switch it on when you hit traffic since our bikes will just shut off when they get hot

Do you still have the stock radiator guard on it?

yes??

It's not very friendly to the radiator when it's really hot out. It sends hot air up and forward which in turn makes the gas tank hot to the touch - I could even feel the heat of the tank though my riding gloves. This has caused mine to stall out many times while woods riding and I've even had to wait for it to cool off before it would start at times. I've seen many recommendations to delete the stock guard so the radiator can breathe.

It's the back part of it that seems to be the problem - not the part that protects the front of the radiator.

As far as an actual switch. Jumping the fan relay with a switch in line looks like an easy solution.

fan relay br/g (brown/green) -> wire -> switch, other pole of switch -> wire -> fan relay L (blue). SPST that can handle 7.5A at 12volts.

Don't try it unless someone else agrees that this will work and would be safe. Use at your own risk.

Heoz wrote:

It's not very friendly to the radiator when it's really hot out. It sends hot air up and forward which in turn makes the gas tank hot to the touch - I could even feel the heat of the tank though my riding gloves. This has caused mine to stall out many times while woods riding and I've even had to wait for it to cool off before it would start at times. I've seen many recommendations to delete the stock guard so the radiator can breathe.

It's the back part of it that seems to be the problem - not the part that protects the front of the radiator.

i thought that guard was to help the air get sucked tho the radiator?

Heoz wrote:

As far as an actual switch. Jumping the fan relay with a switch in line looks like an easy solution.

fan relay br/g (brown/green) -> wire -> switch, other pole of switch -> wire -> fan relay L (blue). SPST that can handle 7.5A at 12volts.

Don't try it unless someone else agrees that this will work and would be safe. Use at your own risk.

sounds great!!!! thank you
with that and some ice fuild... i could do burn outs all day in summer haha

bobbytohn wrote:

i thought that guard was to help the air get sucked tho the radiator?

That may be true but, take a good look at it and take note of the parts that are open where the air can flow out. My take on it is that it directs air up and it directs it at the engine. Why direct the hot air that was pulled through the radiator at the engine? Seems like a very counter productive place to direct it.

And I've had trouble with heat on both ends of the speed spectrum with that thing in place. I already described the slow speed issue. The high speed one is droning on the superslab when the temps are 100F or greater. Somewhere around the 2 hour mark I can just about count on the engine overheat light coming on. I pull over right away but it goes out before I even get to a full stop. In this case the air that the fan is trying to push up/forward ends up fighting the wind that is caused by the speed that I'm driving. Leaving only one place for the air to go... right at the object that the radiator is there to cool off.

As far as it directing air up/forward. Assuming that you have not removed the stock guard, the next time your fan is on while you're stopped, place your hand an inch or two above the radiator cap and you'll feel that hot air blowing up/forward. That air cooks the gas tank if you're stopped or moving relatively slow - any time there is not a head wind that overpowers the air the fan blows up/forward.

I don't know if they designed it that way just to keep the air off of the riders leg or if there are other reasons.

Slow speed - hot tank/bike stalls/tough to start and even refusing to start. High speed - engine light. Two strikes in my book. And just to be clear, both of these only happen when it's around/over the 100F mark. A third strike is simply the lack of impact protection the stock guard provides.

Heoz wrote:

As far as an actual switch. Jumping the fan relay with a switch in line looks like an easy solution.

fan relay br/g (brown/green) -> wire -> switch, other pole of switch -> wire -> fan relay L (blue). SPST that can handle 7.5A at 12volts.

Don't try it unless someone else agrees that this will work and would be safe. Use at your own risk.

After looking at my post, I thought it would be a good idea to make sure that the term jumping as used means to just add another route to the existing wires without causing a break in the existing wiring/connections. If one were to cause a break in the existing line, the fan would not turn on by itself.

And I'd like to add that the power on that line is not switched off by the ignition. You'd want to be certain you didn't leave that switch in the on position when you're done riding. It also means disconnect the battery before you make the mod.

thanks for the info..
i think i will just try removing the guard and new engine ice fluid and see how that goes

i already have a lot of aftermarket wiring...just not sure if it will be worth it

but if i do make a switch i will post it up

ok so this is the what i think i am going to cut off
i think it is only there to keep hot air off the riders leg but also slows air flow though the radiator
is whole piece is only 23 bucks to replace so im not too worried

what you think?? agree?

I removed the entire piece - bike runs cool on trails.
Oh, I use Engine Ice also.

ramz wrote:

I removed the entire piece - bike runs cool on trails.
Oh, I use Engine Ice also.

well i dont have a radiator guard then
yes when spring come i will getting the ice

I can't recall having seen anyone just cut that part off. I have to agree that it would improving the efficiency of the cooling system. I believe most remove the entire thing and replace it with an aftermarket guard. You'll probably be a pioneer if you go that route - let us know if it fixes the issue.