is there an LED or HID bulb available for R/X headlight?

been trying my hand at google to no avail.. are these bulbs available (just the bulbs, for the stock headlight)?

you mean something like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTgkEcUKfC8

(what are the chances of randomly finding one on a WR???)

Check ebay under H4 LED and you will find plenty of options. Just had a thorough read on a german forum about them, and opinions are split if the led headbulbs really improve anything (especially if the headlight wasn't designed for led bulbs)... also, check if they are legal in your area. (they are supposedly illegal in germany, since the WR head light wasn't built for LED bulbs. the reflection angle and reflective coating needs to be designed to house a LED bulb to be legal here... like the headlights in the R8, in which only LEDs are used)

DDM Tunning H4 Hi/Low kit. approx $50 for the 55W kit. Plug and play. Worth every penny

chuckP wrote:

DDM Tunning H4 Hi/Low kit. approx $50 for the 55W kit. Plug and play. Worth every penny

I bought the DDM kit. After about a month the high beam worked intermittently, and shortly thereafter it stopped working completely. No idea what the issue is, but I think maybe these kits are cheap for a reason.

Is there a better one?

pbnut wrote:

chuckP wrote:

DDM Tunning H4 Hi/Low kit. approx $50 for the 55W kit. Plug and play. Worth every penny

I bought the DDM kit. After about a month the high beam worked intermittently, and shortly thereafter it stopped working completely. No idea what the issue is, but I think maybe these kits are cheap for a reason.

Call them, they wil replace it free of charge. I have a buddy whose ballast went dead after a year. They took care of him. I've used 5 of their kits now in autos and motos, never had one single problem. Some are over 5 years old at this point.

I got on their website last night and submitted a warranty claim. We'll see if they respond.

The High/Low HID kits use a electro-magnet connected to the bulb. For a street bike / car this may work fine, but for a dirt bike that's going to get abused, I didn't trust it one bit. I bought a H4 'low beam' kit instead. It acts like a single filament bulb, so I lost my high beam. Works for me thought, now the low is twice as bright, and when I flip the switch to High, it acts like an off switch.

My plan is to get a LED flood/spot light and wire it as the high beam, but I haven't gotten around to it.

Well PBnut...I went to ride the WR for the first time in weeks today. And I have no headlights.. crap. I haven't touched anything, so my guess is it took a crap on me. Seems odd that it would do that while just sitting though.

On a side note. My HIDs have caused the chrome housing to fade into a milky white color. Has yours done this? Mine are 55w fwiw

I also have the 55w kit. I just recently noticed that I have some milky-ness happening on what appears to be the glass. I don't think it's the chrome, but now that you mention it I might dig a little deeper this week and investigate.

Also, I had an instance where the headlight would not come on at all. After turning the bike off and starting it about a dozen times it finally lit and I was able to ride home.

Recently purchased not one, but two HID H4 kits..neither of which would fit the WR headlight. Am returning both and have placed order with Xenonrider. Pricey, but I bet they get it right.

pbnut wrote:

I also have the 55w kit. I just recently noticed that I have some milky-ness happening on what appears to be the glass. I don't think it's the chrome, but now that you mention it I might dig a little deeper this week and investigate.

Also, I had an instance where the headlight would not come on at all. After turning the bike off and starting it about a dozen times it finally lit and I was able to ride home.

I'm pretty sure it's the chrome paint in my case.

I might be going crazy though.... The HID has worked flawlessly ever since I mentioned it failing. I am now second guessing myself. Maybe it was too bright out to notice the light output on my garage door? And i can't remember for the life of me if I got off the bike and looked at the headlight. Either way, I have been nervous of it cutting out on me during a night ride. I did a little research and some say the plug that mates up with the OEM H4 plug needs to be taped tight. Apparently it wiggles loose. Couldn't hurt to check.

I've had a few instances where one of my ballasts in my car doesn't ignite initially. I've have to turn them off and on a few times to remedy it. It's a rare occurrence though.

thelandman wrote:

Recently purchased not one, but two HID H4 kits..neither of which would fit the WR headlight. Am returning both and have placed order with Xenonrider. Pricey, but I bet they get it right.

What make? What was the problem?

FWIW I've had to modify the rubber grommet to fit the HID bulb/plug in the WR. I've actually had modify the grommet or housing on every car i've ever installed them in, factory HID or not.

I just recently bought a WR250R and I will be addressing lighting the same way I did on my DR 650.

I tried an HID kit which really put out the light but the beam pattern really sucked. On high beam I had a dark hole right in front of the bike. So I went back to the halogen bulb.

So I went another route. I order an H4 Headlight relay kit from Eastern Beaver (www.easternbeaver.com) to get the headlight off the starter circuit. This helped a little with the brightness since there was not as much voltage drop. When I ordered the relay kit I ordered an extra power lead off the high beam circuit. I used this to power two ADVMonster LED's that I mounted on a bracket I made from some rescued aluminum.

So now when I hit the high beams I get the two LED's coming on with the High beam. Each LED throws out about as much light as the headlight but they only use 10W each.

Here are some pics:

Looks good man. Although it's obvious the exposure has been manipulated on the second pic...

chuckP wrote:

Looks good man. Although it's obvious the exposure has been manipulated on the second pic...

Yep. Ran both of them through the auto correct on Windows Picture viewer.. could not get a decent pic on the cell phone camera at night.

thelandman, you said you purchased a kit from XenonRider.com, how did the length of the bulb's light turn out? what colour temp. did you choose? what would you suggest as to a colour temp. and was it worth the $120?

http://www.xenonrider.com/products/h4_xenon_hid_kits.shtml

The WR250 headlight reflector is plastic. HIDs can melt it or flake off the coatings, plus HID are not reliable. Nor will they give you the proper light patterns, and they're illegal.

Don't even think about putting in an H4 with higher watts.

I have a relay kit that will give you maximum brightness out of a stock H4 bulb.

As mentioned some have already install this Kit. I just put one on my new WR.

If you lose all headlight it's possible a switch or connector in the circuits has melted down. That is because without relays all the power is going through all the circuit components. HIDs really need full Voltage and that's why they get flaky, Voltage loss without relays just happens over time.

With relays installed, the stock headlight wiring will only see low currents and won't have any problem. The wiring size used looks very thin to me, marginal to carry the power for a headlight when new, and getting less with age.

This is your best solution. But the stock light housing stinks...

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3000-Lumen-H4-H6-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html

[quote="bracky72"]This is your best solution. But the stock light housing stinks...

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3000-Lumen-H4-H6-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html[quote]
will I need the rectifier? and what does it do?

I'm really pleased with this solution. Two ADV Monster 3600 lumen 30 degree floods, 28 watts each on high. Ridiculous amount of light.
With the rotary dimmer, it only lights up one on low & it's adjustable, on high it bypasses the dimmer for WFO on both.
Fully reversible.

Endurodude41 wrote:

bracky72 wrote:

This is your best solution. But the stock light housing stinks...

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3000-Lumen-H4-H6-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html

Quote :

will I need the rectifier? and what does it do?

No rectifier required on our wr250r. You just need the bulb.

bracky72 wrote:

Endurodude41 wrote:

bracky72 wrote:

This is your best solution. But the stock light housing stinks...

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3000-Lumen-H4-H6-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html

Quote :

will I need the rectifier? and what does it do?

No rectifier required on our wr250r.  You just need the bulb.

I'm planning on getting one of these (actually two as my wife also has a WRR). As mentioned, no rectifier needed. Apparently some of the receptacles need a minor mod requiring the bending of a couple of tabs. There is a fan at the base of the LED unit and on some bikes the added depth requires that you make a bit more space behind your headlight mask - either moving wires or rotating the top of the mask forward a half inch or so. I don't know if either of these issues apply to the WRR/X.

I'm in the process of converting a KTM XC to XCW (just adding lights) for plating reasons. As I researched this the afore mentioned issues came up, again, not necessarily a WRR problem. I called and spoke with the owner of Cyclops - he was very helpful and my subsequent order of a rectifier (for the KTM) showed up quickly.

sanluissound wrote:

bracky72 wrote:

Endurodude41 wrote:

bracky72 wrote:

This is your best solution. But the stock light housing stinks...

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3000-Lumen-H4-H6-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html

Quote :

will I need the rectifier? and what does it do?

No rectifier required on our wr250r.  You just need the bulb.

I'm planning on getting one of these (actually two as my wife also has a WRR). As mentioned, no rectifier needed. Apparently some of the receptacles need a minor mod requiring the bending of a couple of tabs. There is a fan at the base of the LED unit and on some bikes the added depth requires that you make a bit more space behind your headlight mask - either moving wires or rotating the top of the mask forward a half inch or so. I don't know if either of these issues apply to the WRR/X.

I'm in the process of converting a KTM XC to XCW (just adding lights) for plating reasons. As I researched this the afore mentioned issues came up, again, not necessarily a WRR problem. I called and spoke with the owner of Cyclops - he was very helpful and my subsequent order of a rectifier (for the KTM) showed up quickly.

The KTM uses A/C for the headlight therefore a rectifier is needed. The WR does not need one because the headlight uses D/C.

I don't think you can move the headlight plastic forward, as it sits into grooves in the fender at the bottom. Moving it forward would tilt it down severely. You can move some wires around behind the bulb, just be careful.

I didn't think an LED bulb produced much heat. The ones I have at home stay very very cool. Perhaps the fan is to keep the rectifier cool

Just to be clear - they all start as A/C. Some bikes use bulbs that run off A/C, others use D/C bulbs - the latter requiring a rectifier to convert A/C into D/C. The WR already has a rectifier since there's a lot of need for D/C on a modern dual sport (fuel injection being way up there on the list). I installed a D/C mask/bulb on my KTM as well as an LED tail light assembly so the rectifier was needed (powering a usb type charger is now also possible as well).

I agree that rotating the mask forward is not ideal but on the KTM the amount is (anecdotally) minimal. I don't know if it's needed on the WR.

Yes, LED's are inherently cool and I wondered about the fan (good point). The concern about water damage has also been raised. All that being said the folk on KTMTalk have been very happy with the LED bulb. At some point I'll try one for my WR.