bogging a little when cold

hey everyone, so i just picked up my 2011 wr250x the other day. I dont have any expirence on these bikes, so i dont know if this is just normal for a stock bike.

when cold it takes about 2-4 crank rotations for the engine to actually fire up...but then runs fine. idk if thats normal or not

when the bike is cold, theres a slight hesitation when accelerating right when you shift. but once warm its okay....normal?

the bike is stock besides some of the do it your self mods.....

from what i found out about the bike and the mods on it are the air box flapper is tapped open, theres a open hole on the top of the air box (servo) hole for flapper i believe.

and he drilled some small holes i the air filter box door...

would any of these mods, or shal i say wanna be mods affect anything negatively with the way the bike performs?


also found two small hoses hanging down in the front of the motor, idk if they came from something or if they are just some vents or something.


please help me out

Evan

I'm not sure about the hoses, but the wr does stumble when it is cold. When I ride my bike during more wintery and fall weather, the bike will stumble if you try to accelerate "hard" ish within say the first 5 min of firing up. Apparently the fuel injection system just does that when it is cold so nothing to worry about :)

You in California?

Do you still have charcoal canister on bike?

That might be the hoses.

Here's a California model below. See the canister behind front wheel.



Is there an aftermarket fuel programmer anywhere on bike?

My 2011 stumbles for the first minute or two when cold. Otherwise no problems after the engine has a little heat in it.

My 2013 has done that since day 1. It's not really a problem. When it's cold, I let it idle for a couple minutes while I don my gear. The bogging seemed to improve after installing a fuel commander.

okay thanks guys! just wanting to make sure it was normal. and yes about 5 min into riding its all good. so thankyou for all the input..


and yes im in california.

and yes he gave me the box of all the stock parts and the AIS system is in the box and the charcoal can..... so im guessing there just the hoses for the can....

should i remove them completly and plug the ports or is it okay to just leave them how they are?

ill go take some pics and post em up

motokid wrote:

You in California?

Do you still have charcoal canister on bike?

That might be the hoses.

Here's a California model below. See the canister behind front wheel.



Is there an aftermarket fuel programmer anywhere on bike?

no aftermarket fuel programer........yet

I have an FMF programmer, and it still does the same bog when cold, like below freezing, until the bike gets nice and warm. I can make it a little better by leaning out the idle/cruise mixture.

Okay yeah I would like to get a Fmf programmer eventually and a full exhaust. But I pretty much spent all my money on this bike. :/ lol prolly not to smart. Oh we'll. so I looked at the hoses and yes they were from the charcoal can. One hose goes to throttle body, and the other one looks like it goes to a check valve then to the tank.
Is it okay to just leave these hoses? Or do you guys remove them and plug the holes.?

G'day there, just found and read your thread now, and in relation to the above post = you have stated that with the charcoal canister for your CA model now removed, there was one hose that went to the throttle body..... So the question now = with that outlet fitting on the TB, has it been capped off ? If not then it will be drawing excess & "unmetered" air from this port. This in turn will cause a lean running condition, which in turn may exaggerate the already existing "factory" bog / stumble / hesitation / flatspot.

Other concerns could be with unfiltered small dirt particals, etc.

I would look at removing all of the un-needed hoses just on visual appeal only - so yes cap all dis-used ports. Just check what other parts may be different for CA model in regards to fuel vapour venting. ( Such as fuel cap breather etc - AFAIK the "non charcoal canister" bikes don't have a fuel vapour vent in the fuel cap ? ).

The "factory" cold stumble that my bike had now seems considerable reduced by a combination of replacing the stock spark plug to iridium needle tip, slight tweek of TPS to now be at 19/99, and also i changed my idle progression CO reading to "8". ( Was at "0" from factory - so have now gone to a slightly richer base "mixture" ).

It's still a fine tuning process to try and compare different settings, and i'm yet to actually "hook up" to a proper exhaust gas & CO "sniffer" machine - but there does definately appear to be some slight but noticable improvements by "seat of the pants" feel.

In any case the up-graded spark plug is a must in my book. Due to providing increased ignition performance, characterised by better fuel ecconomy & crisp response....also the added plus of longer service life due to the much harder materials that it's made from = win, win, win.


Cheers.

Okay cool. Ill get a cap and cap off the one port at the throttle body today. !

my bike is fully stock and it starts on the first click, i run premium and i live at 5300 feet. i also store my bike inside but even for cold starts it has no hesitation

Yeah once I capped off that hose, there's no bogging now wen cold. I don't romp on it when it's cold any ways :)

^^ Good work on above, and for posting the results.

Cheers.