Replacing Cam Chain Tensioner

Looking at the service manual , it looks like you have to remove the starter in order to remove the the cam chain tensioner. In order to remove the starter looks like the exhaust has to come off.

Anyone done this?? Can the starter be pulled back without removing the exhaust.

Just thought I would ask before tearing in to it.

Sounds like I am getting more noise in the cam chain area and there is a ticking noise. Thought I would put the manual cam chain tensioner in to see if that quiets things down.

I have not, but I know Bigdog has done it http://www.bigdogadventures.com I think he frequents advrider but on his site you can email him. I'm sure there's a few people around here who have done it too.

Thanks for the reply.

And the answer is.... Yes. You really need to remove the exhaust to get the bolts off the starter. Someone with smaller habds than mine may be able to get in there to pull those bolts.

Manual cam chain tensioner on the way. Will see if it quiets down the engine a bit.

I'm excited to hear how this works out. From what I've read that should fix it. How many miles do you have on your WRR?

Potentate wrote:

I'm excited to hear how this works out. From what I've read that should fix it. How many miles do you have on your WRR?

I have 20,000 miles on the WRR. I still need to do a test ride. Just finished getting the bike back together yesterday. But so far it sounds like the ticking noise is gone. The cams still make noise as all of these type engines do.

I messed up installing the new cam chain tensioner. I pulled the bike apart and removed the old tensioner before the new one was delivered. As a result I did not have the installation procedure for the new tensioner. You are supposed to put the bike at top dead center before you remove the old tensioner. I did not. As a result my cam chain slipped when I was trying to install the new tensioner.

So,,,,, I had to pull the cam cover off the top to re-align the timing.

Since I had the top end opened up I decided to go ahead and adjust the valves. The valve gaps were still in spec but at the low end. Decided to do what Big Dog does. Picked up a digital micrometer and a diamond sharpening block/stone from Harbor Freight for about $50 total. This let me mill down the old shims to just the right thickness. All valves now measure at the maximum allowed gap. I should never have to check the valves again.

So this turned in to a pretty big job because I DID NOT WAIT TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS !! LOL.

However, it all turned out good. In the end I am glad I did all of it. But I was sure kicking myself when that cam chain slipped and messed up the timing.

Follow up. I took a ride to get the bike good and warm. The clicking noise had gone away. But I could hear a good bit of chain noise and a sound like an exhaust leak. Got back to the house. Could not detect any exhaust leaks. I tightened up the tensioner some more and all the chain noise and the exhaust leak sound vanished. The engine sounds better than it has in quite a while!

Good stuff!

Glad to hear you fixed it. I usually manage to make every job three times the work because I don't follow instructions. Here's to your next 20,000 miles!