WR250R Built in Diagnostic has my battery at 11.9, this ok?

I looked in the service manual but it's not clear what is ok and what is not for a battery. They mention 15 amps aftyer a charge and 12 amps means you should charge it (I think). My bike is used (2016 1500 miles) but new to me. I haven't had any issues with the battery in the couple weeks I've owned it and I put in a battery tender lead and have it sitting on a tender at all times. Is 11.9 ok? The guy in the youtube video showing how to do the diagnostic tests said his is 12.2. I wouldn't change the battery for any other reason since it is working great. Just concerns me since there is no backup kick starter. If the battery goes and you are miles in the woods, what do you do? Anyway, just wondering what a typical and safe range is for the diagnostic test of the battery amps.... Thanks!!

jamiemm18 wrote:

If the battery goes and you are miles in the woods, what do you do?

Just get it rolling down hill with it in second or third gear and pop the clutch! Sometimes it takes a couple tries and is a pain, but it does work.

If the battery consistently starts the bike you should be fine. I personally only charge mine if it’s going to sit for a while. I wouldn’t worry about the voltage, sometimes too much info is just that.

Ride it and have fun!

No, 11.9V is not what a good battery should be showing; it should be putting out more than 13 Volts (mine shows 13.2).

What is the reading while the motor is running at about 5k RPMs? You should be seeing more than 14 Volts.

Not sure if you can run the diagnostic while the bike is running. I was using the built in diag rather than a meter tool

I have no idea what kind of battery charger you have.   I am a boater and have ruined batteries using cheap battery tenders.  (Not saying thats what you have. Just mentioning.) They heat up the battery it seams.  If you have a cheap charger that could be the problem.  The battery charger I have now cost about $200 but it charges 2 batteries.  But you get my point.  I leave this charger hooked up all the time and haven't ruined a battery in 20 years.  I wouldn't have a problem leaving the charger I have now hooked up to my bike all the time but I would not leave a cheap charger hooked up.

I usually don't replace my car batteries until they die but, I replace all my boat batteries about every 3 years so they don't leave me stranded many miles from the dock.  The same could apply here.   I don't know how long motorcycle batteries last yet since I have a 2017 WR. Batteries aren't that expensive and easy to replace.  If you do a lot of back woods riding I would start thinking about a replacement coming up.  If your bike is a 2016 you could be coming up on the 3 year mark or close to it.

Good points, thank you. I have 2 completely different tenders. Maybe I'll throw it on the other one for a hour and then test it using the WR diags again...

jamiemm18 wrote:

I looked in the service manual but it's not clear what is ok and what is not for a

The service manual is pretty clear about procedures for checking battery voltage.  See "Checking and Charging The Battery" on page 8-68.

jamiemm18 wrote:

Not sure if you can run the diagnostic while the bike is running. I was using the built in diag rather than a meter tool

This is not it.

jamiemm18 wrote:

I have 2 completely different tenders. Maybe I'll throw it on the other one for a hour and then test it using the WR diags again...

This is not it either.  With a healthy battery and charging system you should only require a battery tender/charger for occasional charge up after the bike has been sitting unridden over the winter etc.

Below is what the service manual says about battery voltage measurements, which should be checked with a voltage meter with the battery disconnected from the bike:

In diag mode you have a load n the battery, thats why voltage is not so high.
Meassure with a multimeter with ignition off if youre concerned.

Thank you both. I’ll rent a meter and try it. Do I have to disconnect the battery wires from the bike? I saw those #’s in the manual but the manual does not mention diag mode at all so I didn’t know if the battery should read the same under diag as it would under other conditions. I’ll see if I can grab a meter from auto zone or maybe just ride the bike there tomorrow and have them test it with their tool :) thanks

Jens Eskildsen wrote:

In diag mode you have a load n the battery, thats why voltage is not so high.

True, but the load should not reduce the voltage all the way to 11.9; even when I crank the bike the voltage does not drop below 12.6V.

jamiemm18 wrote:

Thank you both. I’ll rent a meter and try it.

Rent a voltmeter? Harbor Freight gives them away for free.

It depends on how long it sits with ignition on ect, but yeah, should be over 12v.

Over 12,6 when cranking seems almost too good to be true.

I rode the bike down to an auto parts store (autozone) with a 8mm for the seat and 5mm allen wrench for the side cover. I took the cover off and removed the strap to the battery to give them enough room to get the battery tester clamps on. It measured 12.6 and 91% charged. This is a good option for someone who wants to test their battery, maybe after the winter, and who doesn't have a meter. Also note: the built in diag of the computer said it was between 11.8 - 11.9 yet the store showed 12.6. Thanks for the help.