electrical gremlins

i just installed a top clamp with risers, new bars, levers, grips, and a rad guard on a 2020 wr. the only intentional change i made to the electrical system was to bypass the clutch safety switch with a wire nut and shrinkwrap.

when i put it back together everything worked except the turn signal, hi temp, hi beam, and neutral indicator lights on the display unit (the switches all worked, just not the indicator leds lights) and the speedo and odo are not functioning.

if move the headlight switch to the hi beam position while the bike is in neutral it blows the 15a fuse and the headlight goes out and turn signals stop working, the other fuses and relays are all good.

the fact that the hi beam switch only kills the 15a fuse in neutral makes me wonder if it's related to bypassing the clutch switch but my understanding is it's fairly common to bypass both it and the kickstand switch without these issues. anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

i also cannot enter diagnostic mode

74796a wrote:

the only intentional change i made to the electrical system was to bypass the clutch safety switch with a wire nut and shrinkwrap.

What exactly do you mean by "bypass"? In order to delete the clutch safety switch just remove it from the clutch perch and tuck it as is behind the screen.

The electrical problems you mention sound like a live wire getting grounded; is it possible that with the risers you installed, the wire loom is now too tight and some connector got unplugged when the handlebars were turned?

thanks for the suggestions, when i took it apart i thought all the couplers behind the headlight were different shapes so i didn't label them. as it happens two of them are the same and i reversed them when i put it back together despite the fact that one is black and one translucent.

when i said i bypassed the clutch switch i meant i left it closed since it's a momentary close to start with the stock clutch perch. you could also leave it open but that might prevent starting in gear, i didn't check to see.

The switch needs to be in the open position; closing it prevents you from starting in gear.

74796a wrote:

thanks for the suggestions, when i took it apart i thought all the couplers behind the headlight were different shapes so i didn't label them. as it happens two of them are the same and i reversed them when i put it back together despite the fact that one is black and one translucent.

I'm confused, are you still talking about the clutch safety switch? Which one did you take apart and reverse? Did you put it back the way it was afterwards?