Reversing sprocket bolts...

This might sound like a silly question, but is there anything wrong with putting the bolt from "inside" the wheel, and having the nut on the "outside"? Reason I ask, the bolt uses an allen wrench, while the nut is... well a 6 sided nut lol I only have torque wrench for 1/2" sockets, not for allen wrench, and that's the only way I could use it...

I wouldn't worry about the torque wrench. Just throw a little blue loctite on there and tighten them nice and snug.

BWA wrote:

This might sound like a silly question, but is there anything wrong with putting the bolt from "inside" the wheel, and having the nut on the "outside"? Reason I ask, the bolt uses an allen wrench, while the nut is... well a 6 sided nut lol I only have torque wrench for 1/2" sockets, not for allen wrench, and that's the only way I could use it...

I'll bet it would be easier to just buy a 1/2" drive hex bit socket socket... cost you about $12 for the right size Craftsman socket at your local Sears. I'm sure Lowe's or any of the other places also carry them.

Fortunately, neighbor down the street came to the rescue with an adapter.

For a while I had problems with the sprocket bolts. I finally ditched both the torque wrench and the lock-tight as neither was working. The bolts would come loose after each ride no matter what I did. I finally got a new set of ny-lock nuts and just put them good and 'snug' feeling with an allen key and wrench on the inside. Haven't touched them since.

ZED wrote:

For a while I had problems with the sprocket bolts. I finally ditched both the torque wrench and the lock-tight as neither was working. The bolts would come loose after each ride no matter what I did. I finally got a new set of ny-lock nuts and just put them good and 'snug' feeling with an allen key and wrench on the inside. Haven't touched them since.

That's just a little disturbing... I guess I'll make sure to check in few days... No offense, but I hope yours was an isolated situation. Though next time I mess with the sprockets, I'm definitely thinking about getting new set of sprocket bolts. ny-lock nuts you say? Is that just nuts or bolts too? If ya got a link, don't hesitate to post it

I should probably clarify something. I had this problem after re-using the stock ones. Ideally ny-lock nuts are only good for one application. I have used them in other applications a few times before changing them with good success, the only previous ny-lock failure I've had is another whole story. However, the stock ones only seemed to work once, then they needed replacement. If I recall, the sprocket bolts and nuts are a common M8x1.25 so should be available at any metric fastener supply place if needed. The stock nuts are likely fine if undisturbed. The stock bolts are likely fine for re-use, but I replaced mine because the new sprocket required it.

just curious what kind of sprocket did you put on your bike? stock uses flat head bolts and some others you will need oval shape like these http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/382267/bolt-sprocket-fasteners---mxoff-road.html I have a sunstar 48 sprocket on the rear and use the bolt fasteners .. i use blue loctite and tighten the bolts nice a snug, careful not to over tighten .. it would be nice to use my torque wrench but Im not sure what adapter to use.

cryptomundo wrote:

just curious what kind of sprocket did you put on your bike? stock uses flat head bolts and some others you will need oval shape like these http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/382267/bolt-sprocket-fasteners---mxoff-road.html I have a sunstar 48 sprocket on the rear and use the bolt fasteners .. i use blue loctite and tighten the bolts nice a snug, careful not to over tighten .. it would be nice to use my torque wrench but Im not sure what adapter to use.

This: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/viewLargerImage.do?prodFamilyId=5937&navType=type

In 44 tooth flavor. They had the bigger holes with a "slant" (been drinking rum for few hours, forget my pathetic vocab), but they also had the stock sized flat holes that fit the bolt pattern. The latter ones are what I used.

I am currently running Vortex sprockets on mine and my wife's WR250X wheels. These require a FLAT HEAD bolt (counter sunk against the sprocket). The stock WR sprocket uses a PAN HEAD bolt (flat surface against the sprocket). On our dirt wheels we have stock style WR2250R/X sprockets which use the stock WR style sprockets.

In my searching I have found it easier to get the WRF style sprockets which use the FLAT HEAD bolts (counter sunk), hence the reason I changed my bolts. Still whatever the reason for removing the bolts, I would replace the ny-lock nuts with new ones whenever un-fastening the sprocket. I no longer bother with a torque wrench for tightening mine and just use an allen key wrench (about 4" long) and just go until if feels good and 'snug'. The worst you can do on the over tightening side (provided you tighten them evenly) is to strip a bolt. This is unlikely with an un-sniped allen key on an M8 bolt of any quality (even grade 5). The worst you can do on the under tightening side is have the sprocket come loose. You'll know it when you stop if this happens. Hence, the reason I don't worry about a torque wrench any more, but use fresh ny-lock nuts.

Buy an allen wrench set, you will find it good to have. Once you tighten the bolt/nut, hold the allen side and apply your final torque to the nut as this will pinch the nut to the hub, this should eliminate the "coming loose" situation.

oldirt wrote:

Buy an allen wrench set, you will find it good to have. Once you tighten the bolt/nut, hold the allen side and apply your final torque to the nut as this will pinch the nut to the hub, this should eliminate the "coming loose" situation.

I have 3 sets of both SAE and metric allen wrenches. Doesn't change the fact that with allen on the outside, and nut on the inside, neither one of my torque wrenches could fit to make the final tightening. However, with 3 different adapters, I was able to use a 1/2 inch torque wrench to tighten it up to specs with an allen wrench attached to it.

Sorry, what I was suggesting was to torque the nut, not the allen side. I have found in numerous applications that involve a thru bolt and nut was torquing the bolt itself would usually end up loosening. Sounds like you pieced together enough tools to get it done.

That means play time !!! What size sprocket did you put on the back ?

oldirt wrote:

That means play time !!! What size sprocket did you put on the back ?

Indeed!
I went with 12T/44T