The Official FI Mapping Area

Just installed an FMF Mega Bomb, a Q4 pipe and an FMF Programmer. I'll be doing the airbox mod today.

I've searched this thread but have only seen other folks asking for settings, no answers. Does anyone have a good set of settings for the above setup? Altitude is 6000' or LESS.

Thanks!

When I installed that same stuff on my 2008 WR-250X last year, the as-delivered settings the FMF programmer came with were just fine.

i started with 3.5 4.5 1.5 8 4 4.5 and went to 3.5 4.5 1.5 8 6 4.5 which seemed to be a little less abrupt, i guess that's because it's a bit later.

i need to play around more, yesterday i was losing light. i did try 3 or 4 other settings before realizing my red was screwed up so my results were not reliable.

i think the biggest thing is you need to try different settings for yourself. also i didn't find that all of a sudden i had adde 200cc to the engine. the bike is more 'alive' but it's still a 250 keep that in perspective.

wes

hey guys, i have a wr250r, with a fmf powercore4, fmf megabomb, ais/exup/airbox-flapper removed, stock gearing and wheels, and right now my settings are 3, 6.5, 3, .5, .5, .5 and it sometimes interrupts the gas flow at high speeds... anyone have any tips? and if anyone else has the same bike specs as me, i'd like to hear what numbers you're running... thanks i appreciate it!

Rapid Dog wrote:

Do you or anyone here know what the base settings (factory defaults) are from the factory?

factory settings are: 3-2-0.5-8-4-4

after having my 08 R for four years i just now got around to pulling the exup/ais/flapper removal. FINALLY!

fmf pc4 + programmer on stock header

i justed changed a couple of settings to 3-4-2-8-6-4 (i think) and did a quick lap around the property. definitely noticed some pep but i'm going to have to go on a ride tomorrow and start playing with the settings some more. can't wait!

once summer rolls around i'm going to be heading up into the mountains (9-10k ft elev) from my house at 4500ft and was wondering if anyone has any input regarding that kind of altitude change.

I have a 2009 WRR bought it new in 2010 april... tons of mods... i run the fmf programmer with mega bomb and powercore 4. I have played with the settings. This is what I like.. 3 4 4 1.5 1.5 1.5 What a difference!

Hope this helps

I have got a Gyt-R Slip On (with the silver endcap: Us version!?), rwmoved the Airbox lid and the Ais. I dont know which Pc5-map to use. Tried many maps, Stock exhaust, Airboxlid removed seems to work best (I make every negative point to a zero).

Have anyone a better map(Pc5)???? Have somebody tried the Leovince's maps?

IAmABug wrote:

oic0 wrote:

*edit* Never mind, not touching it. It has explosive hit now (compared to before). Driving the same as I always do, I keep popping little baby power wheelies. Sofar they've just been scaring the crap out of me as the bike jerks when the front tire reconnects, but its got to signify good tuning lol.

Are you at 2.5-3.5-0-0-0-0 now?

I had been running the more gas efficient stuff for a while. Now I'm at 3.5-4.5-0.5 -0-0-0. No stalling or stumbling when cold, worse gas mileage, seems to change the tone of the motor, make it louder / more thumpy at cruise, and make it more snappy. I'm not sure but I think setting that fourth number to 0 just about bypasses the CO setting because it changes my idle.

oic0 wrote:

I had been running the more gas efficient stuff for a while. Now I'm at 3.5-4.5-0.5 -0-0-0. No stalling or stumbling when cold, worse gas mileage, seems to change the tone of the motor, make it louder / more thumpy at cruise, and make it more snappy. I'm not sure but I think setting that fourth number to 0 just about bypasses the CO setting because it changes my idle.

I have the same mods as you and am experiencing the same stumbling issue when cold... Now that you have eliminated that problem are there any remaining when you have the programmer set to 3.5 / 4.5 / 0.5 / 0 / 0 / 0 ? I think I am going to try this setting tonight when it's nice and chilly out to see if it gets rid of the bogging when the bike is still cold.

foofighter wrote:

oic0 wrote:

I had been running the more gas efficient stuff for a while. Now I'm at 3.5-4.5-0.5 -0-0-0. No stalling or stumbling when cold, worse gas mileage, seems to change the tone of the motor, make it louder / more thumpy at cruise, and make it more snappy. I'm not sure but I think setting that fourth number to 0 just about bypasses the CO setting because it changes my idle.

I have the same mods as you and am experiencing the same stumbling issue when cold... Now that you have eliminated that problem are there any remaining when you have the programmer set to 3.5 / 4.5 / 0.5 / 0 / 0 / 0 ? I think I am going to try this setting tonight when it's nice and chilly out to see if it gets rid of the bogging when the bike is still cold.

None that I can detect. First three numbers I did not change, in fact they are probably a bit rich from when I was trying to eliminate the stumble without touching the last three. Its the last three that seem to get rid of the stumble for me. Don't know which specific one or ones though. I've always change em as a group. You may be able to narrow it down to just one of them. Probably the 4th one in the sequence.

I tried your settings this morning before heading to work. Got rid of the bogging completely! It does feel slightly weaker in the top end now but I would trade that for ridability any day. I might try tuning #4 in CO mode like some people have done... I really cannot believe the difference the bike feels from stock until now!

Okay I finally decided that I couldn't live another day without ordering something else for the bike. So my FMF programmer is on its way. Here are my mods/accessories/farkles, any suggestions?

WRR Setup
Delta Barrel 4 full exhaust (Low-Noise or Standard Insert)
Flapper, AIS & EXUP Removed (Obviously)
EXUP Emulator (12 O'Clock Labs)
No-Toil Filter
13/46T
****EDIT****
And I'm in St Louis (elev. 465ft)

Tested with the 0s on the end. Managed 60mpg in my normal stop and go commute. Even with my fat arse and heavy hand. Guess it doesnt hurt mileage that much.

I am assume many of you didn't know much about underground of FMF tuning procedure :) Or lazy enough to repeat posted numbers. I did some research in this topic and found visual explanation of all 6 numbers we exchanged here.

At the bottom of http://www.electronicjetkit.com/default.asp
or separate appication www.electronicjetkit.com/demos/HPCurve.swf (find + - and MODE position by cursor pointer change)

These made by guys that bring FMF/WISECO/Altitude/... EFI controller to the masses - Dobeck Performance (and their own brand EJK)

Great find! I found the site very interesting. Only a couple more hours until my programmer arrives. I am seriously debating skipping out early for an afternoon install and test run before dark. I hate waiting for this kind of stuff.

ueyteuor wrote:

hey guys, i have a wr250r, with a fmf powercore4, fmf megabomb, ais/exup/airbox-flapper removed, stock gearing and wheels, and right now my settings are 3, 6.5, 3, .5, .5, .5 and it sometimes interrupts the gas flow at high speeds... anyone have any tips? and if anyone else has the same bike specs as me, i'd like to hear what numbers you're running... thanks i appreciate it!

Dobeck told me to bump up #4 to 8. The fuel cut-out stopped after that.
Current settings 3/4.5/2/8/5/4.5

stock pipe w/upper plug removed
EXUP/all smog/flapper removed
FMF programmer of course
K&N filter
runs like a snotted cat with the airbox cover removed.

I'm setting up my FMF Programmer and I'm looking for a little more of an indepth description regarding the colors...

1. Green: Amount of Fual added under "cruise conditions" (what are cruise conditions? is that Idle?)
2. Yellow: Amount of Fual added under Acceleration
3. Red: Amount of Fuel Added at Full Throttle
4. Green/Blue: Point in the RPM Range, when in "cruise mode" is turned on. (Need explanation please)
5. Yellow/Blue: Fuel Delay in Acceleration Mode
6. Red/Blue: Fuel Delay at Full Throttle

whitea42 wrote:

I'm setting up my FMF Programmer and I'm looking for a little more of an indepth description regarding the colors...

1. Green: Amount of Fual added under "cruise conditions" (what are cruise conditions? is that Idle?)
2. Yellow: Amount of Fual added under Acceleration
3. Red: Amount of Fuel Added at Full Throttle
4. Green/Blue: Point in the RPM Range, when in "cruise mode" is turned on. (Need explanation please)
5. Yellow/Blue: Fuel Delay in Acceleration Mode
6. Red/Blue: Fuel Delay at Full Throttle

1. I believe this is at steady throttle at any speed.
2. what it says but for steady at a acceleration curve, amount of fuel is adjustable, so if you have a bog maybe more fuel is dialed in here
3. same same except at WFO.
4. where you would like the cruise mod to start, lower RPM? Like around town if it surges, probably more fuel needed.
5. I'd suspect same as #4 but the point (RM) at which more fuel is added when twisting the grip.
6. same as #5 but at WFO.

Now I'm open for corrections...

I changed to 4.5 - 4 - 3 - 0.5 - 4 - 4

First two numbers I'm not sure about. Probably need to be lower. I "feel" like it has more top end oomph with that 3 though. Needs more testing.

Also worth noting. Changing that 4th number to 0.5 is suggested for big bore kits to make them run right on the bottom end. I don't have a big bore kit but mine was running like ass off idle and now it runs much better. Still occasionally stalls but only when rolling to a stop with the clutch in. It was feeling a little dead trying to cruise at 70mph though, hoping changing the last two numbers helps that. Perhaps it was transitioning out of the 2nd stage and in to the third too soon leaving it with a lean spot? I dunno. Here's hoping its fixed.


On that note, I find it funny that almost all tuning advice on forums say the first number should be smaller than the second, but the manufacturers of the tuner suggest the opposite for everything from piped to fully uncorked big bores.

To clear up any confusion about what each mode actually does. Here it is word for word from FMF...

Intro:
Start the motorcycle. The green LEDs should scroll across for a few seconds and then go to flashing or solid green. If the #1 green and #8 red LEDs continue flashing after startup check to make sure that the connections are plugged in all the way and that no pins are pushed out of the connectors. If this doesn't fix the problem please contact our tech support department. It is recommended that the pre-programmed settings of the FMF Power Programmer be used. However, the FMF Power Programmer can be adjusted to suit different engine modifications, states of tune and environmental conditions.

To begin this process, press the mode button. To enter each successive mode, just press the mode button again. Note that every mode will be identifiable by the color(s) of the flashing LED(s) on the LED display. there are six modes that are distinguished by an LED color or color combination. The 6 modes are as follows, respectively: Green, Yellow, Red, Green-Blue,Yellow-Blue and Red-Blue. You are now ready to manually program each mode. Consult the base settings supplied with the unit. To Program the FMF Power Programmer, the bike must be running in order to supply power to the FMF Power Programmer. Simply press the mode button to activate the first mode. IF at anytime you stay in the adjustment mode for longer than 5 seconds without pressing any buttons, the FMF Power Programmer will exit the adjustment mode and will return to the operational mode. To save setting in a particular mode press the MODE button which goes to the next adjustable mode or wait for the FMF Power Programmer to exit back to the operational mode. The settings in each mode are adjusted by pressing the (+) and (-) buttons located on the right and left side of the mode button, respectively.

For easy reference the LEDs are numbered 1 through 8. However, the LEDs can be adjusted to the following positions: 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8. For example, in a particular mode, if LED 4 is flashing then the LED display is set to 4 in that mode. If the (+) button is pressed once then LEDs 4 and 5 will flash simultaneously and the LED display is set to 4.5. If the (+) button is pressed once again, only LED 5 will flash and LED display is set to 5. The LED display can also be set to 0.5 by pressing the (-) button and scrolling the colored LED to position 1 and then pressing the (-) button once more until the LED in position 1 is flashing twice as fast as normal.


MODES:
1. The first mode (Green Mode) represents an additional amount of fuel added under cruise conditions. A flashing green LED should appear on the LED display. To add more fuel, scroll the flashing green LED to the right using the (+) button. To add less fuel, scroll the flashing green LED to the left using the (-) button. If you set the flashing green LED to the 0.5 position on the LED display, no fuel will be added to the stock fuel curve.

2. The second mode (Yellow Mode) represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration. A flashing yellow LED should appear on the LED display. To add more fuel, scroll the flashing yellow LED to the right using the (+) button. To add less fuel, scroll the flashing yellow LED to the left using (-) button. If you set the flashing yellow LED to the 0.5 position on the LED display no fuel will be added to the stock fuel curve.

3. The third mode (Red Mode) represents an additional amount of fuel added during full throttle conditions. A flashing red LED should appear on the LED display. To add more fuel, scroll the flashing red LED to the right using the (+) button. To add less fuel, scroll the flashing red LED to the left using (-) button. If you set the flashing red LED to the 0.5 position on the LED display no fuel will be added to the stock fuel curve. NOTE: If the flashing green, yellow, and red LEDs in modes 1 through 3(Green, Yellow and Red) are set to the 0.5 position on the LED display then the FMF Power Programmer will not add any fuel to the bike's stock fuel curve. This setting will essentially turn off the FMF Power Programmer even though it is still attached to the bike's fuel injection system. The bike will run as thought the FMF Power Programmer is not installed. The FMF Power Programmer LED's will still operate normally even though no fuel is being added.

4. The fourth mode (Green-Blue Mode) is an adjustment to determine the point on the RPM range when the cruise/Green Mode fuel turns ON. A flashing green LED appears on the LED display while at the same time a flashing blue LED appears on the 8th LED. The cruise/Green Mode fuel can be set to turn on at idle or just above idle at a point selected by the user by adjusting the green LED in this mode. The Green-Blue mode is RPM based ONLY. Each LED position represents a specific RPM on your bike. In this case, LED 0.5 will turn ON the cruise/Green Mode fuel at 1,000 RPM and LED 8 will turn ON the cruise/Green Mode fuel at 2,800 RPM. Each LED setting in between 0.5 and 8 will turn ON the cruise/Green Mode fuel in between the above-mentioned RPM points. You can calculate what RPM corresponds to what LED by interpolation. If at idle, the Green LED is solid, then Green Mode is active and Green-Blue LED is set to a RPM that is lower than the idle RPM of the Motorcycle; Green Mode fuel is being added at idle. If at idle the Green LED is slowly flashing, the the Green Mode is NOT active and the Green-Blue LED is set to a RPM that is higher than the idle RPM of the Motorcycle; Green Mode fuel is NOT being added at idle.

5. The fifth mode (Yellow-Blue Mode) is an adjustment to determine the time when acceleration/Yellow Mode fuel amount turns on. A flashing yellow LED appears on the LED display while at the same time a flashing blue LED appears on the 8th LED. To increase the sensitivity and therefore cause the Yellow Mode fuel to turn on sooner, scroll the flashing yellow LED to the left using the (-) button. To decrease sensitivity and therefore cause the Yellow Mode fuel to turn on later, scroll the flashing yellow LED to the right using the (+) button.

6. The sixth mode (Red-Blue Mode) is an adjustment to determine the time when the full throttle/Red Mode fuel amount turns on. A flashing red LED appears on the LED display while at the same time a flashing blue LED appears on the 8th LED. To increase the sensitivity and therefore cause the Red Mode fuel to turn on sooner, scroll the flashing red LED to the left using the (-) button. To decrease sensitivity and therefore cause the Red Mode fuel to turn on later, scroll the flashing red LED to the right using the (+) button.


FMF recommended settings:
Stock Setting with exhaust:
Green 3, Yellow 2, Red 0.5, Green/Blue 8, Yellow/Blue 4, Red/Blue 4.

Big bore 290cc settings with exhaust and lid opening:
Green 5, Yellow 3.5, Red 3, Green/Blue 0.5, Yellow/Blue 3, Red/Blue 4.

Big bore 290cc settings with exhaust and airbox modification:
Green 5, Yellow 4, Red 4, Green/Blue 0.5, Yellow/Blue 3, Red/Blue 4.


FMF Racing
18033 S. Santa Fe Ave.
Rancho Dominguez, CA 90221
Phone: 310-631-4363
Website: www.fmfracing.com
Installation or warranty questions?
Contact Dobeck Performance at 877-764-3337

...to increase the sensitivity and therefore cause the Red Mode fuel to turn on sooner, scroll the flashing red LED to the left using the (-) button.

wow, that is news. Thanks for posting this!

Thank you thank you thank you for the In-depth post!
That was exactly what I needed to read. Afterward, I tweaked my #4 (Green/Blue) from 8 to 3.5 and she no longer surges at idle. Also, the single green light stops blinking and two green lights come on solid, which I believe to be a good sign (per FMF).

Current setting: 3, 3.5, 0.5, 3.5, 6, 4
Mods: airbox lid removed plus some, delta barrel 4 exhaust, 500ft elev. (st Louis).

You're very welcome! I was struggling myself to understand what all the modes actually did. So I went searching through my bike stuff and found the instructions that came with my programmer. Instead of trying to paraphrase I just took the time to copy it word for word. So hopefully it helps everyone out as much as it has me!

I just set mine to 3, 3, 3, 0.5, 0.5, 4. This is so far the smoothest I have gotten the bike!!! As far as I could tell from a short 15 minute test ride, no surging at low RPM's and no jerky throttle response. Here is a detailed break down of why I chose these settings...

Just to start I decided to set the first three modes all to 3. My theory here was that they would each add the same amount of fuel to each mode(Cruise, Acceleration, WOT)... Hopefully creating a smooth throttle curve.

I decided that I wanted Mode 1 (green) to turn ON right off idle, instead of kicking in later in the power band. Having it turn on later created a V-Tech like jump in power half way through the power band. For some people this might be desired because you can put around under the cruise setting and save fuel. Then when you want more power just rev the bike higher... However I ride the bike up near the rev limiter pretty much 95% of the time. So this made the bike constantly feel less responsive. Especially when accelerating through a corner only to have the back end kick out as the bike reaches the designated cruise turn on point in the rpm... I think having a smooth throttle curve is safer and easier to ride. Losing some fuel economy is not an issue for me...

The last two settings are slightly harder to tune. They are just the sensitivity of the acceleration mode and the full throttle mode respectively. I am going for the smoothest mapping I can get. So I don't want any hesitation in acceleration of the bike. So for the 5th setting (Yellow-Blue) I set it to the maximum sensitivity. This should in theory tell the bike that no matter how hard or soft I am applying the throttle I want the Yellow Mode to be adding fuel to the throttle curve. Then I decided that I didn't want the last little bit of fuel being added in mode 3 (Red) to always be coming on no matter how fast I was accelerating. I think setting Mode 6 (Red-Blue) to 0.5 makes the bike too jerky off idle because it is adding SO much fuel all at once. So setting it to 4 right in the middle seems to smooth everything out.

This is literally the first time I have attempted to tune the by using logic instead of just copying someone else's settings and hoping for the best. So I am not saying these settings are perfect, or that they will work for everyone. Just want to share them with everyone in hopes that everyone can get their bikes dialed in to where they want them.

FMF Powercore 4, Powerbomb Header, Ultimate Airbox Mod, Removed AIS & Flapper.

whitea42 wrote:

Thank you thank you thank you for the In-depth post!
That was exactly what I needed to read. Afterward, I tweaked my #4 (Green/Blue) from 8 to 3.5 and she no longer surges at idle. Also, the single green light stops blinking and two green lights come on solid, which I believe to be a good sign (per FMF).

Current setting: 3, 3.5, 0.5, 3.5, 6, 4
Mods: airbox lid removed plus some, delta barrel 4 exhaust, 500ft elev. (st Louis).

Bet your idle was right at the RPM level that 0.5 sets the fuel to change so it was continually going above then back under the limit. Bet increasing your idle a hair would have helped too, though if your bike isn't acting a fool when cold or stalling at lights etc... you don't need the 0.5 settings.

foofighter wrote:

You're very welcome! I was struggling myself to understand what all the modes actually did. So I went searching through my bike stuff and found the instructions that came with my programmer. Instead of trying to paraphrase I just took the time to copy it word for word. So hopefully it helps everyone out as much as it has me!

I just set mine to 3, 3, 3, 0.5, 0.5, 4. This is so far the smoothest I have gotten the bike!!! As far as I could tell from a short 15 minute test ride, no surging at low RPM's and no jerky throttle response. Here is a detailed break down of why I chose these settings...

Just to start I decided to set the first three modes all to 3. My theory here was that they would each add the same amount of fuel to each mode(Cruise, Acceleration, WOT)... Hopefully creating a smooth throttle curve.

In theory, if the motors demands were linear and the stock map were linear. But neither are linear and the stock map isn't really matched to the motors demands, its fat on top to increase reliability when running wide open but lean everywhere else to get good fuel mileage ratings and generate enough heat for the catalytic converter to work.

oic0 wrote:

Bet increasing your idle a hair would have helped too, though if your bike isn't acting a fool when cold or stalling at lights etc... you don't need the 0.5 settings.

That actually brings up a question I've had about these bikes... Is there an idle adjustment screw on our bikes? Or were you referring to increasing the amount of fuel delivered at idle?