The Official FI Mapping Area

Someone said there is and described where it is but when I tried to find it... you can barely even see the throttle body, much less get to it. Another way to increase your idle a bit is to go in to the CO adjustment mode and adjust it while looking at the RPM output. When its optimal, it will idle a bit higher. Sofar though I am just dealing with the fact that my bike idles very low and sometimes cuts out when its warm (After the initial auto enrichment to help cold cranking turns off)

Hi folks,

I'm trying to sort out my WRR and get the FMF programmer set.

The bike:

2008 WRR
FMF Programmer
FMF Megabomb
FMF Q4
Flapper screwed down
K&N Filter

FMF Settings were at 3, 2, 0.5, 8, 4, 4 and it would stall it the throttle was blipped or opened rapidly off of idle.

I changed to 3, 2, 1.5, 4, 1, 2 and the stalling is much better. I'm trying to figure out what setting most affects this stalling off idle. It still has hesitation off idle especially when cold.

Drives my wife crazy when I'm sitting in the garage revving it, trying to test the settings. She keeps asking if I think it's a Harley.

Gotta love a smartassed women.

RJ

what settings would anyone recomend for the FMF programer with this set up

- FMF Powercore 4
- FMF Megabomb header
- Flpper removal + cutting nice open hole on the top of air box to allow max air intake
- K&N Air filter
- AIS remooval
- Servo removal

ive decided to go with this set up, would like to have an idea of what settings would be best for it, so i dont have to mess aroud to much to get good.

thanks in advance!

Just picked up an 09 wr250r that had been modded by the previous owner.

He warned me that it had a dieing/surging issue "once a week", well its more like once every few miles.

His mods are:

FMF Powerbomb header
FMF Q4 pipe
ALL emissions have been removed
Airbox uncorked
FMF EFI Programmer

Pretty basic mods from what I understand


When i bought the bike he said he thought it was running a bit rich.

The settings were

3
5
3
4
4
4

I called the performance shop that makes these and the very helpful guys said I should try changing setting 2 from 5--> 4 and setting 4 from 4 --> 8.

so now i have

3
4
3
8
4
4

The bike still surges, nothing is fixed. Usually happens at high cruising speed and requires the throttle to be closed before running again.

THE MOST ALARMING THING HOWEVER, is that I averaged my fuel economy and im getting 50mpg, am i running too rich across the board???? Any guidance would be appreciated.

My dr650 gets about 45mg with a kein carb and it hauls ass compared to this bike. I would have thought the wr250 would have been much better with fuel economy. I guess i was hoping for around 60mpg or so?

Its not the biggest deal but it would be nice. My major concern is for the bike to run properly, without dead spots at high speed. But moderate fuel economy would be nice also.

Thanks for the help.
-Evan

Setting number 5 - move that from 4 to to 6 or higher.

It's a known issue with FmF units.

See if that helps.

Many of us get 50-60 mpg-ish. Not uncommon at all.

If you think you're too rich, drop your numbers. See how that feels.

Try 2-3-2-7-6-3


If you really want better mpg's you can always use better control of the throttle.

Do you know what gearing you're running?

motokid wrote:

Setting number 5 - move that from 4 to to 6 or higher.

It's a known issue with FmF units.

See if that helps.

Many of us get 50-60 mpg-ish. Not uncommon at all.

If you think you're too rich, drop your numbers. See how that feels.

Try 2-3-2-7-6-3


If you really want better mpg's you can always use better control of the throttle.

Do you know what gearing you're running?

gearing is stock, tires are stock.

I bought the bike for the intention of setting it up as a good single/double track woods enduro. There are alot of great places to ride in wisconsin. I was hoping to do it though without getting a bigger tank which would throw off the handling characteristics. I guess im not ruling that out though as of now since I hit reserve at 80miles indicated.

I'll try your settings and see what happens. Most likely I can run an external fuel cell, or a couple 30oz. bottles in the woods, i guess that would get me another 25 miles or so.
That last MPG read was with pretty lazy throttle usage, just burping along.

80 miles on a stock tank is about right.
The 3.1 plastic tank available is just about right.
I got about 140-150 last ride.
Smart to carry a fuel bottle along anyway...

well I tried the 2.3.2.7.6.3 settings.

Really took alot of power out of the bike on the top end, but I no longer have surging/dieing issues up high either.
Pulls fairly good to rev limit but its missing what it "had" before. I think for single track woods riding I'll run previous settings for more power since I wont be droning on the highway. But for all around street riding the 232763 settings work better for all around.

My Fuel economy changed slightly from 50mpg to 55mpg also.

Im not switching out tanks on this bike though. Im pretty much just using it for woods stuff. I have a Dr650 with a big tank i use for long camping trips and such. Although the much higher wattage of the wr250r has me thinking about running full heated gear and such in winter. Not sure yet.

Anyway this forum has been very helpful.

motokid wrote:

Setting number 5 - move that from 4 to to 6 or higher.

It's a known issue with FmF units.

See if that helps.

Many of us get 50-60 mpg-ish. Not uncommon at all.

If you think you're too rich, drop your numbers. See how that feels.

Try 2-3-2-7-6-3


If you really want better mpg's you can always use better control of the throttle.

Do you know what gearing you're running?

OK motokid, I just tried your numbers tonight. Those #'s are spot on. I'm still running stock gearing till next week. But man, I had a blast around town and even on the highway running 65-75mph. I did about 30 miles on the highway tonight and the rest around town. It's a bike night tonight so a new fuel map gave me a reason to put in some miles and hit all three events. Total mileage on a topped off tank, 64 and I ran it to the red for another mile till I hit my gas station. I had been getting 75-80 miles per (stock) tank. But it wasn't near as peppy and balls out fun. Got any more numbers I can try?

3 - 5 - 0.5 - 8 - 4 - 4

FMF programmer
FMF Megabomb
FMF PowerCore
AIS Removed
Airbox Opened
No-Toil air filter

New plug with 1,000 miles. Seems a bit lean to me, but I'm not sure exactly which setting to change to richen it up across the board. Maybe the 3rd 0.5 to 1?

rjudge wrote:

Hi folks,

I'm trying to sort out my WRR and get the FMF programmer set.

The bike:

2008 WRR
FMF Programmer
FMF Megabomb
FMF Q4
Flapper screwed down
K&N Filter

FMF Settings were at 3, 2, 0.5, 8, 4, 4 and it would stall it the throttle was blipped or opened rapidly off of idle.

I changed to 3, 2, 1.5, 4, 1, 2 and the stalling is much better. I'm trying to figure out what setting most affects this stalling off idle. It still has hesitation off idle especially when cold.

Similar mods to me (except I have stock header) and I am having the same issue. I am currently running 2-3-1-8-6-4.

My present theory is the 5th number, which you went from 4 to 1 and noticed an improvement. This is the time delay for acceleration to kick in. Other posts suggest this should be 6 according to mfg to prevent cutouts at cruising at higher RPM. But that means it is waiting longer to add fuel when accelerating, leading to the hesitation.

I also tried messing with the C1 settings, thinking that this may affect the off-idle fuel mixture more than the FMF pp. (https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t3769-wr250-r-x-built-in-programmer) I went from -11 stock to 0, +5, +10, and +15. No significant difference in the off-idle bog, especially when cold. I have been trying to figure out if it is a lean bog or a too-rich bog.

I'm going to play with the FMF PP numbers for the next few days to see if I can get any improvement.

Does anybody happen to know what the stock setting of the CO mode is? Please let me know, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

pretty sure it varies from one bike to the next.

Mine was -2

Yeah, I think it is different for every bike. I can't say that it was the stock value as I wasn't the original owner, but I don't think the PO messed with it at all and mine was at -11. I played with different numbers while riding around, and found that +2 felt the best at that time with the mods my bike has (see sig).

Just a quick question on the FMF PG ...

If the 3rd number is set to .5 (meaning no fuel added to WOT, I think)... Then does the 6th number (when fuel is added to WOT?) come into play at all?

I have been trying all the great info and others maps and have settled on a set that works great for me so far...was just wondering maybe the 6th number doesn't affect anything if the 3rd is set to .5. .?
If it does, how do those two numbers interact?

Anybody know if my thinking is wrong here? Any replies much appreciated...

Also most maps seem to have the 1st # at 3 and 4th # at 8. For me bike was a little "dead feeling" while cruising and felt more responsive when set to 3.5 (1st) and 4 (4th)... Any known problems with this?

I realize there are many different set ups and options, just looking for a general idea, like keeping the 5th # at 6 or above completely stopped the engine cutting out at higher speed issue I was having (thanks all!)

My Best feeling map so far is 3.5/5/.5/4/6/4.5. With this set up...

2010 WR250R

FMF Power Core
FMF Power Bomb
Flapper/Solenoid removed
AIS removed
K&N Filter
Stock Gearing 13/43
CA bike 300ft above sea level
CO setting +3

FTWeather wrote:

Just a quick question on the FMF PG ...

If the 3rd number is set to .5 (meaning no fuel added to WOT, I think)... Then does the 6th number (when fuel is added to WOT?) come into play at all?

I have been trying all the great info and others maps and have settled on a set that works great for me so far...was just wondering maybe the 6th number doesn't affect anything if the 3rd is set to .5. .?
If it does, how do those two numbers interact?

Anybody know if my thinking is wrong here? Any replies much appreciated...

Also most maps seem to have the 1st # at 3 and 4th # at 8. For me bike was a little "dead feeling" while cruising and felt more responsive when set to 3.5 (1st) and 4 (4th)... Any known problems with this?

I realize there are many different set ups and options, just looking for a general idea, like keeping the 5th # at 6 or above completely stopped the engine cutting out at higher speed issue I was having (thanks all!)

My Best feeling map so far is 3.5/5/.5/4/6/4.5. With this set up...

2010 WR250R

FMF Power Core
FMF Power Bomb
Flapper/Solenoid removed
AIS removed
K&N Filter
Stock Gearing 13/43
CA bike 300ft above sea level
CO setting +3

The first three numbers are how much fuel is added, the second three numbers are various delays to those transitions. I can't remember which ones are which but stuff like how long it waits before adding more fuel when you crack the throttle, stuff like that. You can google around and find out exactly which ones do what, but if you get em wrong you really aren't going to run too rich or too lean, the bike just runs less crisp I guess you could say. Some people prefer that, they prefer it to be a little more mellow. Others like me want it to be super responsive.

My bike mods pertaining to tuning:

All the common mods - no big bore kit.
some good improvement with these popular? settings:

3-4-1-8-6-4.5

edit; unnec text rem

Im having an issue with my bike hesitating when I twist the throttle quickly from idle, it does it everytime untill the bikes totally up to temp and a little bit after its fully warmed up.
If I roll the throttle on a touch untill the revs are up a tiny bit then twist the throttle quickly its fine.
I also have a stalling issue when starting the bike for the first time in cold temps, if its below freezing the bike will start then stalll a couple of times before idling, once runing it works well.
I have a fmf Q pipe with stock header, very open airbox and the fmf programmer, my settings are 3-5-.5-8-6-4
I messed with the settings for a bit today and only made it worse, so I went back to those settings.
The one thing I did that made it a bit better was adjust the idle speed up as high as it will go.
The bike is very rideable im just nit picking it, im basicly riding around my yard trying to make it act up lol.
It may also be a cold weather related issue, as its below freezing here.
Anyone else have these issues?
Do I need to adjust to co setting?

Biglake, based on my experience though only with my one bike, yes, that is what appears indicated.

As the title says, the new NGK CR9EIX iridium spark plug did not improve the cold low rpm/low throttle soft spot.

Common widespread web info indicates that the CR9EIX actually HURTS low end torque and esp when cold. Going back to the CR9EK.

I'll bump up the CO setting next weekend, I wont have time to mess with it untill then, I havent checked it yet so I have no idea what its at right now.

been swapping emails with Matt at Dobeck. will post if any surprises.

I mounted my programmer on the bars so I could actually see what's going on while riding. Here are a few thoughts:

The scrolling lights on the FMF PP are not a tach. They seem more like a TPS readout, or possibly a combination of things to give a 'load' reading. They also seem to lag a bit.

The 'timing' that you adjust in settings 4,5,6 is related to this 'load' reading. Again, it seems closely related to throttle position. So adjusting the 5th number lower makes it switch from cruise mode into acceleration mode sooner, or with less throttle. Adjusting the 6th number down means it will switch from accel mode to WOT mode sooner, as LightFoot noted above.

The programmer can only be in one mode at a time, so if you have the 6th number set too low, it will switch from your richened accel mode to the not-so-richened WOT mode at lower throttle positions or lower loads or whatever algorithm it uses to determine the range. This is also the problem with having the 5th number below 6, it seems like it wants to kick into accel mode too soon when you are trying to cruise, so it adds fuel and causes a bog.

To get a nice smooth power curve, the numbers all have to work together with each other. I tried lowering the 1st (fuel added at cruise) number to 2 to maybe bump up the fuel economy, since I spend a lot of time at the cruise range. Also my backpack smelled like rich exhaust after a 45 minute ride. But it made things choppy going from cruise to accel (set to 3), since when it switches modes it suddenly added much more fuel. I didn't want to lower the fuel added during accel, since it pulls really nice where it was set. So you can adjust the timing to make accel kick in under less 'load' but then you run into possible bog issues.

I have my CO set to +2, which was really nice when the temps were 60 to 70 deg F. Now that it is below freezing, I am wondering if the stock ECU is overcompensating and making the base map run richer leading to the smelly exhaust and off-idle bog when it's cold.

Too many things to mess with... I am still playing around with things in an attempt to understand them better and get the best feel out of the bike.

dmmcd,

Thanks for input. I didn't know the unit applied only one mode at a time. Your observations of the unit during actual operation cleared up some things for me.