The Official FI Mapping Area

JohnnyBeagle wrote:

does anyone have a PCV map for AIS/EXUP/flapper/airbox door removed/Graves exhaust?

I'm running the PCV map for the Graves with the airbox door removed but I feel like it might be too lean and the autotune is a little out of my budget right now

email is bsajeevan@gmail.com

Are you assuming that there would be a difference between maps #1 & #2 ????

#1) AIS/EXUP/flapper/airbox door removed/Graves exhaust?

#2) airbox door removed/Graves exhaust?

The AIS has nothing to do with anything.
The airbox door being removed negates the flapper mod completely.
The EXUP stuff is moot as well regarding what you are looking for.

Why do you think you're running lean?

motokid wrote:

JohnnyBeagle wrote:

does anyone have a PCV map for AIS/EXUP/flapper/airbox door removed/Graves exhaust?

I'm running the PCV map for the Graves with the airbox door removed but I feel like it might be too lean and the autotune is a little out of my budget right now

email is bsajeevan@gmail.com

Are you assuming that there would be a difference between maps #1 & #2 ????

#1) AIS/EXUP/flapper/airbox door removed/Graves exhaust?

#2) airbox door removed/Graves exhaust?

The AIS has nothing to do with anything.
The airbox door being removed negates the flapper mod completely.
The EXUP stuff is moot as well regarding what you are looking for.

Why do you think you're running lean?

Sorry, I was unclear with my request.

The map I'm running is the PCV map from the Dynojet website: 22-043-003 Graves full exhaust, stock air filter.
My bike currently has the Graves exhaust with the airbox door removed and the flapper taped down.

I'm looking for someone's custom map that has been tuned for the Graves exhaust and the airbox door removed and the flapper taped down. Ignore the EXUP/AIS list above, I was just trying to list everything done to my bike.

Why not try the 22-043-006

It's not for a Graves exhaust - but it is for an after-market (Leo Vince) exhaust AND an open airbox.

Custom maps are tough unless the person supplying you with it lives at same altitude and has the same general climate (temp and humidity) as you.

I finally got to go for an easy ride yesterday with the new mods.

FMF Programmer
FMF PowerBomb
FMF Q4
Ultimate Airbox Mod
K&N
AIS delete

Programmer settings as per HighFive (3-5-0.5-8-4-4)

Temp yesterday 11c / 52f

Bike was hesitating (bogging?) when I rolled on the throttle (not WOT).

I should add that I still had half a tank of fuel from last November and just topped it up with new fuel at the beginning of the ride (probably didn't help ...) and it was REALLY windy out yesterday.

After a lot of reading, I decided to try out 3-4-0.5-8-6-4 (from 3-5-0.5-8-4-4).

I lowered #2 down to 4 instead of 5
I raised #5 up to 6 instead of 4

Hopefully I can get out on Wednesday for a ride and see how it rides with these new settings....

Need help getting this baby dialed in!

Yoshimura RS4
FMF Programmer
K&N Filter
Flapper Screwed Down
Vacuum Removed
AIS Removed

Anyone with similar mods please reply with programmer settings!!

Thanks everyone for the help!!!

 

need some tuning advice here.

2009 wr250x at around 1300 feet above sea level

mods
Ultimate airbox mod
AIS delete
FMF powerbomb header
FMF q4 exhaust
FMF programmer
13/47 sprockets
CO set at +4

Current programmer settings are 3  5.5  .5  8  4  4.5 (steveakus settings)

it pulls very strong but around 6700-7100 rpm's it bogs and hesitates.  which happens to be around 60-63mph in 6th gear on the highway.  When cruising at 60-63 in 6th it will actually bog so much it will almost flame out.

any suggestions?

2006kj wrote:

Current programmer settings are 3  5.5  .5  8  4  4.5 (steveakus settings)
it pulls very strong but around 6700-7100 rpm's it bogs and hesitates.  which happens to be around 60-63mph in 6th gear on the highway.  When cruising at 60-63 in 6th it will actually bog so much it will almost flame out.

Change your 5th setting to a value of 6 instead of 4 and the bogging should be gone. I had the exact same problem.

--------------------------------

I had been running 3-4-0.5-8-6-4 for a couple weeks after my last post and I had noticed something.

Fuel economy is HALF of what it was before the mods. Literally half.
I used to get about 190-200 km's per tank before the light would come on and now I'm only getting 95-100 km's.
I knew it would burn more fuel, but holy crap !!!!
Not the end of the world, but it does mean I can't go far without gassing up at every gas station I see...

--------------------------------

Here's my update after putting on about 2000 km's this summer:

I changed my settings from 3-4-0.5-8-6-4 to 2-3-0.5-8-6-4 (first 2 numbers are 1 lower now) and the performance has gone up.

With the above settings...

Bogging is gone now.  
Front lifts up at stops now.  
Fuel light still turns on around the 100km mark.  
My face when I ride --->   
 

i ended up changing my 2nd setting from 5.5 to 4.5 and my last setting from 4.5 to 4. no more bogging but i think it could run better still. im going to try lowering the last two settings from 4 and 4 to 1 and 1 and see if theres a noticeable difference. makes sense that you would want that fuel sooner rather then later.

For whatever reason, the 5th number seems to like a value of 6..... This is as per many other riders searching for the same solution to the same problem. I tried it and it worked. Let us know it going down to a value of 1 works for you.

I've been digging through, but didn't see exactly what I'm running.  Anyone have some settings they can share with me?  I haven't opened the air box or removed the AIS yet, but I will.  Thanks!

FMF Programmer
FMF Powercore 4
Stock Headpipe
Opened Airbox
AIS Removed
EXUP Removed
No Toil Air Filter

Hello All,

Need some help I have done all the normal mods, except a different air filter. I have not ordered it yet.
AIS Delete
Flapper glued down
Mega bomb hearder
Q4 Exhaust
FMF programmer.

I am currently running the 3-5-0.5-8-4-4 and I tired 3-4.5-0.5-8-4-4. I am still gettng the cutout when giving it thorttle around 59-63 miles an hour. If I let off the gas and then reapply then all is well. Will the new air filter clear this up or should I try a different setting.

Read my post above. The 5th value needs to be 6 instead of 4. Try it and let us know how it works for you.

Even with that 5th digit at a 6, my bike still very occasionally cuts out. Usually at the worst time, in 6th gear when trying to merge onto a freeway or something. I know now just to momentarily release the throttle, but it can still be startling.

Mine does it once in a while too when trying to speed slowly up at 60ish mph.

I have the 5th setting on 6, with it lower the bike cuts alot on the road not just once in a while at 60, I never bothered trying it set to 8 tho that may fix the cutout completely.

I dont ride that speed much tho as I stick to back roads with 50 mph speed limits or go 70 mph on the highway, which is why I dont bother messing with the programmer.

Evol wrote:

Read my post above. The 5th value needs to be 6 instead of 4. Try it and let us know how it works for you.

Thank you for the info. I am going to do a little test run with the 5th value at 5, 5.5, and finally 6. I am sure the 6 will be the magic number, but reading about your fuel milage going down sucks.

beefcakemorris wrote:

Evol wrote:

Read my post above. The 5th value needs to be 6 instead of 4. Try it and let us know how it works for you.

Thank you for the info.  I am going to do a little test run with the 5th value at 5, 5.5, and finally 6.  I am sure the 6 will be the magic number, but reading about your fuel milage going down sucks.

What?

How can slowing down how quickly the the acceration mode kicks in (thats what the 5th value does) hurt fuel milage? if anything it will be better on gas with that setting at a higher # which is a slower setting.

The last 3 settings on the programmer adjust when and how fast it adds fuel not how much it adds.

Exactly... It's the first 3 values that add extra fuel to the mix.

My fuel economy wasn't just from that change. It was comparing a stock bike to a modded one. I did all the mods at the same time.

I went back and reread a bunch of your post, now I get what your talking about lol.

I get 130-150kms per tank with a similar setup on the road or off road on fast easy trails, yours really likes its gas if you only get 100kms per tank.

Does your gas have a lot of ethanol in it? that stuff hurts mpg.

No ethanol.

Another thing that probably isn't helping is the 12oClockLabs SpeedoDRD to correct the speed. That is also playing a factor in my mpg reading.
But yeah, she's a thirsty bitch.

2010 wr250x:
Yoshimura RS4
FMF Programmer
Flapper Screwed Down
Vacuum Removed
AIS Removed
13/48 sprockets


I used to run: 3, 5.5, .5, 8, 4.5, 4.5

If it was hot out (20-40c) my bike was great, I found my last 30% of a gear the bike would take of and rev limit.
At lower temps my bike would have a mid range flat spot. After reading through here a bit , I tried out:

2, 3, .5, 8, 6, 4

The temp here has been 10-14c, The bike run goods, no flat spots but it does not rush to the rev limiter any more.
It actually balanced the bike out compared to what it was before. Better settings for my wife to ride the bike.
I think I will keep tweaking it for myself though.

Sorry if this has been covered, but I just installed a PCV (fuel and ignition) along with removing AIS, taping flapper down and removing solenoid. I have loaded the PCV M22-043-001.pvm map, but noticed it's pretty basic and doesn't modify ignition at all. Does anyone have a better map for what I have? Thanks!

HiQ wrote:

Sorry if this has been covered, but I just installed a PCV (fuel and ignition) along with removing AIS, taping flapper down and removing solenoid. I have loaded the PCV M22-043-001.pvm map, but noticed it's pretty basic and doesn't modify ignition at all. Does anyone have a better map for what I have? Thanks!

Is there a reputable dyno near you? Sure it will cost a little money and time but you will be really happy with the end result.

rsteiger wrote:

HiQ wrote:

Sorry if this has been covered, but I just installed a PCV (fuel and ignition) along with removing AIS, taping flapper down and removing solenoid. I have loaded the PCV M22-043-001.pvm map, but noticed it's pretty basic and doesn't modify ignition at all. Does anyone have a better map for what I have? Thanks!

Is there a reputable dyno near you?  Sure it will cost a little money and time but you will be really happy with the end result.

I haven't really looked, but I did purchase the AT-200 as well. I'm waiting to hook it up until I get my PB/Q4 setup, but maybe I should just weld the bung to the stock header and use it now? I could always buy another bung for the new PB when I finally pull the trigger on it. I was more looking for something to tide me over until next year on the stock header/exhaust. Thanks!

Just got the EJK fuel controller in the mail and wanted to get some advice on settings:

2008 WR250X
Stock gearing
Pro Circuit T-4 exhaust
Airbox door removed

Location: Calif - around sea level.

I think the consensus I noticed is 3-4-0.5-8-6-4 seems like a good way to go...any input is appreciated!

-Dan

Stock Gearing
550 Ft above Sea Level
Sig Says the rest-- Any input on my numbers for these mods? I kind of just went one notch richer from the stage 1 mod FMF recommended settings (located here)--> http://fmfpowerprogrammer.com/viewproduct.asp?custnumber=014403