Replacing front 13 toth sprocket

I would like to replace the front sprocket and replace the same with a 14 tooth.  I see that on the shaft, there is a nut and it is peened on two sides to prevent movement.  Okay, so if I am having trouble un-peening this thing, is there a way to remove it with out tearing the threads up on that counter shaft?  And which way do I turn it to loosen?  CW/CCW?
I just bought this bike from a PO and I do not yet have the manual.

To loosen go ccw. If you have an air impact tool, use it and don't worry about the indented area until you tighten it. Then just penne it back with a punch.

To unpeene the nut drive a small screw driver or punch in under the peened part with a hammer, you wont have to hit it very hard so dont go nuts on it lol. Unpeening the nuts optional if you have a impact to remove the nut.

If you dont have a impact put the bike in gear and hold the back brake on with one foot while you turn the nut with a long breaker bar, this methods pretty easy if you stand beside the bike on the brake side and reach acrossed the seat to pull on the breaker bar.

Thanks guys, I tried un-peening these tabs and what a PIA, still no luck.  What kind of retardo, dumbass method does Yamaha come up with for this?  When done, I will just locktitie this thing.

It's done that way so it won't come off while riding the bike.
That wouldn't be pretty.
Even having it just loosen a bit can do things like wear the splines out if you ride a lot in that condition.

I always used a new nut when putting mine back on.

Well, I understand that, what a mess it would create!  Bottom line is that a prevailing nut would do the same and be a lot less grief getting off and/or replacing.

Although many use an air impact on the countershaft nut, I am not willing to hammer my transmission like that. I sit on the bike with it in first gear, hold the rear brake and use a 1/2" breaker bar to remove the nut. I don't pry the peened areas up. Likewise, I hold the brake while torquing it back down with the torque wrench. I peen it just like it was with a small punch.

I have a 14 tooth sprocket sunstart sprocket listed as for a Wr250R/X 08-09, I have a 2013 WRR. 

1) Do you think this is a big deal?

Also, I noted that the chain slide is pretty beaten up so I loosened the chain maybe 1/8th inch using the adjusters, seems to be okay.  It does seem that the chain will be tightened up and I will have to readjust the chain slap again.  I am at the last adjusting notch on the rear adjuster. 

2) Would it not be a good idea to buy a chain that allows me to be approximately in the middle of the adjustment range?  That would make sense to me. 

3) If so, what chain and length should I buy?  This is stock 2013 bike.

Lots of chain and sprocket info here: https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t5-chains-and-sprockets

All years are the same as far as sprockets & chains (and pretty much everything else).

Looks like you need a 110 chain.

The chain slider is a wear part, and if wearing through, just replace it.  

14/43 gearing is really high.  Are you doing high-speed road stuff?  because it will be pretty bad off-road with that gearing.

I think 14/46 would put me just about like stock gearing.  What do you think?

If you have not read about BigDogAdventures and Marks' mods and experience with his WR250R you should take the time.  His link is here:  h.ttp://bigdogadventures.com/WR250R.htm

I am using 14/50 gears currently as recommended by Mark and am quite satisfied with them for the type of riding I do.  I might order in a 48 rear sprocket at some stage just to have another option.  Your needs will depend on the type of riding you want to do.  Good luck with your decision.

14/46 is approx. the same as stock.  Too high for me, but depends on what you do with it.  Check the chain length, as you may need 112 for that combo.  When I suggested 110, I thought you were doing +1 front only.

I am running 12/43 now (original owner), & have new 13/47 sprockets ready to install when the chain needs replacing.

if you do the math, your gonna have a 45 or a 46(can have a 1/2 a tooth lol), i ran a 14/43 and got bashed about how "not fun" my bike was now. a 14/43 works just fine but i will throw your spedo out quite a bit, ask the cop who gave me my last ticket  , i run a 14 to bring the chain out from the swing arm, due to lowering it....

Running a 14 tooth is mainly to keep the swing arm from getting eaten up.  Figure I can mess with the rear sprocket to adjust for riding conditions.  I think it would be a good idea to note what chain length is being used when the gearing is mentioned.  For instance: 13,47,112 and so on.  I always wonder what chain length guys are running when they do that.

i just started replacing my front sprocket last night and noticed that it didnt even have a peened nut/washer. it just a simple bolt, similar to what's on the rear axle.

i'm not the 1st owner of this wr250x, and i havent had any issues after 4000miles of ownership, 12500mi all owners told.

is this peened nut necessary?

i've replaced the oem w/ a renthal sprocket so it doesn't have the raised part like the oem does.

It is designed to ensure that the nut does not come loose, nasty consequences and all that. You could use blue lock-tite and be okay. The tabs to be peened in are a mechanical insurance policy to retard movement of the nut. Just keep an eye on it and use the blue locktite. If you go with the red loctite, ensure that you heat the nut and shaft to remove the nut, otherwise you may damage the threads. Next choice is to order the nuts from Yamaha, I just ordered 5 of them for the future. Others please chime in for more opinions.

i gotcha.

id also like to add that i looked at the diagram for OEM parts for wr's and and they show a washer/spacer. mine had no washer either. it's #28 in diagram below.

one more thing- the new sprocket i have doesn't look like #27 with the raised portions on both sides of the sprocket like the oem does. any particular reason for this?

Personally, I'd buy an OEM nut and peen it down as when the bike was new.
I'd also buy the missing washer.

The original sprocket has raised portions (rubber dampers) to reduce chain/sprocket noise for EPA sound regulations, believe it or not.

thanks for the help. never would have thought of those rubber dampers as an EPA thing

as for the missing washer, i'm ordering one today. but as for the lock washer (the one that gets peened onto the nut), i can't find that in any diagram for OEM parts. not even at the dealerships i've gone to. i suppose i could try to find one at a auto parts store or something

lvmonkey wrote:

thanks for the help. never would have thought of those rubber dampers as an EPA thing

as for the missing washer, i'm ordering one today. but as for the lock washer (the one that gets peened onto the nut), i can't find that in any diagram for OEM parts. not even at the dealerships i've gone to. i suppose i could try to find one at a auto parts store or something

There is no "lock washer that gets peened onto nut".

The nut itself has a "lip" that get's peened onto output shaft.

It's # 29 in the above schematic.

Don't do what I did. Sitting on the seat, holding the brakes, pushing a breaker bar trying to get the sprocket nut lose, and when it finally broke loose, I busted my nose on my handlebars. Blood everywhere.

sliprimitive wrote:

Don't do what I did. Sitting on the seat, holding the brakes, pushing a breaker bar trying to get the sprocket nut lose, and when it finally broke loose, I busted my nose on my handlebars. Blood everywhere.

     

Holy shit.....

sliprimitive wrote:

Don't do what I did. Sitting on the seat, holding the brakes, pushing a breaker bar trying to get the sprocket nut lose, and when it finally broke loose, I busted my nose on my handlebars. Blood everywhere.

Yikes! Yeah, you need to be pulling on a wrench when loosening tight fasteners.

motokid wrote:

There is no "lock washer that gets peened onto nut".

The nut itself has a "lip" that get's peened onto output shaft.

It's # 29 in the above schematic.

thanks for clarifying. i couldnt tell there was a notch on the output shaft since there was no washer raising the nut to expose the lip.

ill be ordering the washer that would normally come w/ it.