Newby - Modified Exaust - Check engine light

New guy here. I was wanting a Honda CRF250 but stumbled upon what I think was a good deal on an 08 WWR in what seems to be like new shape with 700 miles on it so I'm happy as can be because I got a much hotter bike for about what I thought a Honda would cost.

It's got the Q4 pipe, the FMP programmer, ( Yep, I've plugged a good one in ) and the good looking DRC led taillight and turn signals. It runs like a dream & I'm having a lot of fun.

Question; My check engine light is on. The previous owner said that it because of the aftermarket exhaust and from doing a lot of lurking and searching on here that appears to be true. No code is showing up on the display, just the orange light is on.

I've found the Exup Servo Eliminator modules for sale online that are supposed to mimic the stock exhaust and make the light go off. Do I need to do that? If something else popped up I wouldn't know it since the light is already on.

I've got the led DRC 601 led turn signals on the back & the stock ones on the front. My blink rate is a bit high... I've read on here that LED's cause that. Would the rate be even faster if they were also on the front? I've found modules that are supposed to correct it, but will they work ok with LED's only on the back or will the blink rate be a little too slow until I put LED's on the front as well?

Is there a way to make the display show the RPM's?

My previous dirt bike was a KTM & it offered more engine case protection there around the front sprocket. I've found the Sandman's aluminum engine guard and his Case Saver Kit which look like a good investment. Anyone here use them?

I've read all about the ~8% speedometer error & that's about what I appear to have. I know almost all speedometers read a tad higher than actual, but isn't 8% excessive? Why did Yamaha to that to us? Is there no adjustment that can be done to make that closer to accurate?

Thanks for any of your thoughts.

I only know the answers to a few of your questions, a little more info could help as well.

The CEL is probably due to the exup servo motor being removed, unfortunatly if it has been then its likely that you need to plug one in, reset ECU to turn it off, and plug in one of the few servo eliminators options, which could be home made(7-10k ohm .25 watt resistor) and once done that you could leave it off for good.

LED's do indeed cause the faster blink rate, no the rate will not increase with the fronts being changed. you have 2 options for the flasher rate, 1st being an elecronic flasher module that doesn't rely on the resistance of the lights, meaning they will work with proper timing regardless of light style.
2nd option is wiring resistors inline with the led's which i wouldnt recommend, cause i believe the light output of the led's would be slightly less and its more work.

In diagnostics mode you can see the rpm's but there is no setting or way too see them while riding the bike, as far as i know.

lots of people use the sandman and its probably the best one there is cause the others dont protect the case from the chain if it were to snap.

There are 2 products that correct the speedo, the speedo drd and the speedo healer, the drd is tiny and takes water like a champ the healer didnt like water so much last i checked but a condom would probably work lol. A gps would work as well... thing is people say you cant correct the odo and the speedo at the same time, which i still dont understand, unless its the 8% difference you mentioned, either way its not a big deal for most .

There is a servo motor that works the butterfly valve in your stock exhaust. The ECU thinks the servo motor is malfunctioning now that the EXUP valve is gone with your stock header.

Follow this link and read your options >>> Servo Bypass

sdowiat wrote:

Question;  My check engine light is on ...... No code is showing up on the display, just the orange light is on.

^^ Ok mate from what i can read into on the above i'd say that you are not actually accessing the correct / full Diagnostic Mode, (DIAG MODE ), to extract and read the stored code/s. Basically if the orange CEL is staying on then there will be a DTC logged / stored. This code is not displayed on the "normal" digital display, so you must access the DIAG MODE and relevent function to read the stored code/s.

Do a search here as there are a few threads with some good info on how to initiate the DIAG MODE functions. ( Or if you can get a Workshop Manual it has all the info regarding DIAG MODE and reading / clearing codes ).

Sorry i don't have time right now to "walk" you thru the process, but other members here may be able to post the directions here if you can't find it via a topic search.

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Smashey wrote:

In diagnostics mode you can see the rpm's but there is no setting or way too see them while riding the bike, as far as i know.

^^ This is correct for showing the RPM's in a certain function of DIAG MODE, and yes it is possible to have this display whilst riding....but there will be no speedo or ODO display, so therefore it will not accumulate any of the distance travelled whilst riding in DIAG MODE.

Cheers guys,   

so i can say screw the od and run a gps for speedo while having a tach... sweet!

Smashey wrote:

so i can say screw the od and run a gps for speedo while having a tach... sweet!

I'd like to do this as well, but I wonder if there is any downside to running in DIAG MODE.

ezrdr55 wrote:

Smashey wrote:

so i can say screw the od and run a gps for speedo while having a tach... sweet!

I'd like to do this as well, but I wonder if there is any downside to running in DIAG MODE.    

I am pretty sure it doesn't log miles on the odometer when in DIAG mode, but I may be wrong. Meaning you could ride all day without putting any miles on the bike!