Help with FMF Programmer Settings ASAP

Hey guys. I just joined the forum and I've been reading around for some FMF settings. I can't find anyone that has the same settings as me. I have removed the air box flapper, Opened exup, and have an exhaust tip to open it up. I started with 2,4,2,8,2,6 but the bike died on the freeway. So I changed up the settings, and it bogs and tries to cut out so I have to pull the clutch in and it runs fine again. First time it died on the freeway I was cruising in 6th gear. Other times it tried to die I was hard on the throttle. Anyone have some suggestions on what numbers I could run with my setup? This is the first time I've played around with programmers. Any help would be awesome. I have a ride this weekend and would like to get some numbers asap. Thanks in advanced.

FEATURES: GREEN FUEL YELLOW FUEL RED FUEL GRN LWR SW PT YEL LWR SW PT RED LWR SW PT NONE
Initial recommended base settings for stage 1 modifications.
GRN @ 3 YEL @ 2 RED @ 0.5 G/B @ 8 Y/B @ 4 R/B @ 4
Athena Big Bore 290 kit with slip-on and stock air box setup.
GRN @ 5 YEL @ 3.5 RED @ 3 G/B @ 0.5 Y/B @ 4 R/B @ 4
Athena Big Bore 290 kit with slip-on and air box top eliminated.
GRN @ 5 YEL @ 4 RED @ 4 G/B @ 0.5 Y/B @ 4 R/B @ 4
Settings for stock exhaust and air box top eliminated.
GRN @ 2 YEL @ 0.5 RED @ 0.5 G/B @ 8 Y/B @ 7 R/B @ 4
Alternate Stage 1 settings for FMF Q4, Stock header, air box flapper removed, and stock foam air filter.
GRN @ 3 YEL @ 2.5 RED @ 0.5 G/B @ 4.5 Y/B @ 3.5 R/B @ 2

You sound like option 4 with stock exhaust

Awesome. Thanks for the info. Where did you find this information? I just changed my settings and but haven't ridden to try them out yet. I switched to 1.5, 4, 3, 8, 7, 4.5. From what I know these bikes run lean from the factory So I figured if I'm adding more air I would want to boost the fuel delivered. The 4th option says to run stock programming for acceleration and full throttle. Wouldn't you want more fuel if more air is being delivered to the engine? I found out why I was bogging bad on the way home and it's because I accidentally changed the 5th number to a 1. I have been searching online for hours and found someone that contacted the manufacturer and they said not to run below a 5 and that 7 was ideal. The first time it bogged only on the freeway in 6th gear and did it once, that's when I had it set to 6. My buddy has the same issue and just deals with it but I didn't pay money for something that half works so I want to get this tuning down to a T.

These are available two places I know of. FMF has a listing on their site which is not quite a comprehensive as the manufacture of the controller, Dobeck. Dobeck sells the same unit under the EJK ( Electronics Jet Kit ) name and manufacture the unit for FMF and several other companies. The initial settings will be a little light ( But at least it will run ) and you may need to add some fuel. Since no one know how much restriction was taken away by your modifications of the exhaust you need to play it by ear.

You don't need to add any fuel at wide open throttle on the red or third setting, leave it on .5.
The WRR is lean while cruising and a hair lean accelerating but a touch rich wide open stock.

This is why you run the first setting on 1-4 (this adds fuel while cruising), the second on 1-4 (this adds fuel while accelerating), the third on .5 (wide open throttle), the 4th setting controls how soon the cruise fuel gets added, unless you have a big bore kit leave it on 8, the 5th setting controls how quick it switches from cruise to acceleration mode, this needs to be 6-8 or it will cut out while cruising and the 6th setting can stay on 4 like it was out of the box as your not adding any fuel there anyway.

I found it was a lot easier to tune the tuner once I knew what every setting did.

Unless you have a big bore you can leave the last 4 settings at .5 8 6 4 and just mess with the first two to dial it in for your mods IMO.

I would try 2 2 .5 8 6 4 for your close to stock set up.

Lee_533
The reason I said that you cannot know how much restriction was reduced by changing the tip is from what you described nothing was done internally to the chambers and baffles inside the muffler. You may have only helped a slight percentage. Likewise you opened the air box flapper but you are now limited by the next constraint, the air filter. Part of the stage 1 modifications is adding a higher flow filter like the No Toil.
The goal is to remove all the air inlet restraints and all the exhaust restraints ( After market exhaust ) to the point that the engine itself is now the next constraint. Stage 1 is usually sufficient for most because the next stage is where the big expenses came in with the flow through the engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URYYx6arwdE

Sorry forgot to mention I do have a no toil air filter. I threw the stock one out right away. I know I still need to open the exhaust which means new pipe but upgrades come when the money allows it. Thanks for the info on how the bike ran. I thought they ran lean all around so I'll drop that 3rd number to .5 and give that a shot. I'll try the settings and let you know what I think. I'm in the process of trying to find a used powercore 4.

Sorry forgot to mention I do have a no toil air filter. I threw the stock one out right away. I know I still need to open the exhaust which means new pipe but upgrades come when the money allows it. Thanks for the info on how the bike ran. I thought they ran lean all around so I'll drop that 3rd number to .5 and give that a shot. I'll try the settings and let you know what I think. I'm in the process of trying to find a used powercore 4.

Lee_533 wrote:

Sorry forgot to mention I do have a no toil air filter. I threw the stock one out right away. I know I still need to open the exhaust which means new pipe but upgrades come when the money allows it. Thanks for the info on how the bike ran. I thought they ran lean all around so I'll drop that 3rd number to .5 and give that a shot. I'll try the settings and let you know what I think. I'm in the process of trying to find a used powercore 4.

High Five had a really good write up on his site when he dyno tested his bike with different settings. http://www.wrrdualsport.com/ how ever his site is down

His conclusion was the wr is starved for air and needs the flapper remove and more air. He got his best results with:
3-5-0.5-8-4-4
where the stock is:
3-2-0.5-8-4-4

I've got mine on 3-4-0.5-8-4-4. With the full FMF pipe and flapper removal and extra 2 x half inch holes in the airbox.

This is good info on what each number does on the docs:
http://fmfpowerprogrammer.com/instructions/9310072_WR250.pdf

FMF changed the programmers at some point a few years ago, the newer ones need to have the second setting/acc mode on 2-3 not 5, this was done so you don't need to get it reflashed to work with a big bore kit, the original programmer wouldn't add enough fuel on acc mode for the big bores.

So highfives settings don't work so well anymore, he had the old programmer.

I tired his settings it didn't run that great so I started backing the second setting off one # at a time until it ran its best and ended up with it on 2, I have a fmf pipe and very open airbox too.

Biglake wrote:

FMF changed the programmers at some point a few years ago, the newer ones need to have the second setting/acc mode on 2-3 not 5, this was done so you don't need to get it reflashed to work with a big bore kit, the original programmer wouldn't add enough fuel on acc mode for the big bores.

So highfives settings don't work so well anymore, he had the old programmer.

I tired his settings it didn't run that great so I started backing the second setting off one # at a time until it ran its best and ended up with it on 2, I have a fmf pipe and very open airbox too.

Really good to know. I ran it on 5 and noticed my gas usage was out of control! I did 40miles off road and my reserve light came on. I also thought it was running a little hot.
So I put it down to 4, but now based on what you're saying I'll put it back to the stock setting of 2 ;)