Fuel Programmer with stock exhaust air box mod AIS and EXUP

I plan on adding a fuel programmer and to  do the full air box modification. Is it necessary to  remove the AIS and the EXUP motor and the flapper valve? I plan on keeping the stock header and exhaust system at least for now till I find a quiet light weight version .
I rode a friends WR250R with an FMF Q pipe and FMF fuel programmer and liked the enhanced performance a lot, but didn’t like it being so loud. Even the Q version is too loud and gave me a headache after 30 minutes of riding.
I understand that removing the AIS and the EXUP motor and valve will reduce weight, but will it have any effect on performance? Degrade performance?

Thanks for the help.

You don't need to remove anything...install the programmer and have fun, hehe

Don't need to remove either the AIS or EXUP. In fact, some would advise you to not remove either as they both serve a purpose relating to the stock exhaust and should remain installed until the exhaust is replaced.

I ran mine with just the airbox modified and programmer for a few months before putting on an exhaust and removing the AIS and EXUP then.

Thanks JKroes, I will do the same for now. I do want to get a full exhaust system and remove the AIS and Exup mainly to lose those extra pounds in the future.
I assume performance would be enhanced with the fuel programmer and airbox mod alone.
So that begs the question, what is the quietest full exhaust system out there?

Thanks,

I felt a small increase in power and a smoother throttle response with just the airbox and programmer but the bigger increase came with the full exhaust.

As for the quietest exhaust, Im probably not the best person to answer that question as I don't have experience with different ones. I run the power bomb header and Q4 exhaust and its louder than stock but I don't find it too loud. Thats all subjective though, whether there is a quieter exhaust i'm not sure...

jkroes wrote:

I felt a small increase in power and a smoother throttle response with just the airbox and programmer but the bigger increase came with the full exhaust.

As for the quietest exhaust, Im probably not the best person to answer that question as I don't have experience with different ones. I run the power bomb header and Q4 exhaust and its louder than stock but I don't find it too loud. Thats all subjective though, whether there is a quieter exhaust i'm not sure...

Leo Vince exhausts are typically pretty quiet and very well made as an FYI...

eram310 wrote:

Thanks JKroes, I will do the same for now. I do want to get a full exhaust system and remove the AIS and Exup mainly to lose those extra pounds in the future.
I assume performance would be enhanced with the fuel programmer and airbox mod alone.  
So that begs the question, what is the quietest full exhaust system out there?

Thanks,

You could always try a DB dawg or similar insert in a louder pipe to quieten down...

Thanks guys,
Jkroes, what programmer do you use?

eram310 wrote:

Thanks guys,
Jkroes, what programmer do you use?

I use the FMF Programmer

Thanks again Jkroes
One last question
I see FMF has a recommendation setting on their website for stock setup with the air box mod and recommendation settings for a full exhaust and air box.
Why are there so many other suggestions on this forum for these settings? Isn’t the FMF recommendation good enough?

On my old dirtbike, I had an FMF slip on and rejeted the carburetor according to FMF recommendation and was happy with the improved performance. I thought this is similar principle.

Because people can't leave well enough alone, lol. I have Q4 and flapper mod, exup and AIS removed etc. etc. I did the EJK (same as FMF) recommended settings and the bike has been perfect.

Theoretically it is the same principle.

There are several reasons that lead to everyone running different settings on their programmer.

1. My understanding is there is two different versions of the fmf programmer, an older and a newer version. The older version supposedly requires a higher setting to achieve the same effect as a lower setting on the newer versions. I don't know this through experience, simply through research so maybe someone can confirm it.

2. Certain glitches, for lack of a better word, has been found in the stock settings leading to people adjusting them. The most notable is the yellow/blue setting being increased from the recommended 4 to 6. At 4 most people are experience a cut out while cruising at highway speeds and the increase to 6 fixes that.

3. Almost everybody is running slightly different bikes in different areas/altitudes. These differences account for changes in the settings.

4. Rider preferences account for changes as well. Some are mindful of fuel economy and may choose to add less fuel (lower settings) with that in mind while others are looking for pure power increase and run a higher setting.

There is no black or white when it comes to picking your settings, just a whole lotta grey

I run mine similar to the recommend settings 3-2.5-0.5-8-6-4 and they seem to work well for me.

CRFan1 wrote:

Because people can't leave well enough alone, lol.  I have Q4 and flapper mod, exup and AIS removed etc. etc.  I did the EJK (same as FMF) recommended settings and the bike has been perfect.  

And because of this as well...

Thanks guys.
Jkroes, you have been very helpful with your answers and this actually makes sense to  me.

Maybe this explains the cut out I experienced with my friends WR250R. I was running it on the trails and the bike worked flawlessly. When I was cruising on pavement at 60MPH and I am sure higher than 4000 RPM (The bike is geared down) I felt the cut out. Like the bike is running out of gas. It was fine afterwards.  As I understand, this is the RPM # when the cruise mode gets engaged. I noticed that on a stock pipe with the air box mod, the recommended setting by FMF for that value is at 7 = engages at 7000 RPM.

I wouldn't be surprised if that was the reason. Ask him what his settings are, if his yellow/blue is less than 6 than he might want to bump it up a bit.

eram310's friend here.  I have removed the entire flapper assembly and AIS, and added an FMF Q4.  My FMF programmer settings are 3.5, 4.5, 1.5, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5.  I'll try changing the 5th setting to 6 and see if that eliminates the high speed cut out problem.

Also, I would agree that the Q4 on my bike is A LOT louder than stock, especially at high RPM.  When I read on here that people think that the Q4 isn't much louder than stock I wonder if I got a faulty pipe or something.  Maybe I just have a lower tolerance for it. I also think my skid plate amplifies the engine noise a bit.

Everyone's idea of loud is different, I have a Q4 without any baffle in it to try to get as much power as possible, its quite a bit louder than stock but quieter than the other bikes I ride with so I don't worry about it.

At one time I was riding on the road and near neighbors houses early in the morning often so I had a modded baffle in the Q4 to quiet it down a bunch, it honestly didn't affect power much at all but kept the neighbors happy. If/when I start using the bike for more road work and less trail I will put the stock pipe on it as the bike is quieter to ride fast down the road with a stock pipe, that's about the only place I notice the extra noise from my Q4, its a non issue trail riding, which is mostly at low to mid rpm.

I would agree with Biglake, everyone's idea of loud is different which makes analyzing exhausts difficult. The q4 is definitely louder than stock but overall I don't find it too loud. I grew up on mx bikes that were much louder so maybe I'm just use to it.

I do try to ride as quiet as I can when leaving or returning to my neighborhood though, to keep the neighbors happy

As a side note..

Been there done that.. now back to stock. For how I use the bike I enjoy the stock setup.

For me the biggest bang for the buck was changing the gearing - I am running 13/48 and it works well for me.

Best Expensive change was sending the suspension out to GoRace and having it set up for me and my riding. The Renazco seat wasn't too bad either.

Hey there, have not chimed in for a while but I am on my second WRR now and still loving the bike. Gave my 2012 to my son a couple years ago (currently at 14,000km) and picked up a 2015 (currently at 3600km). All the usual mods (again), flapper delete, AIS removal, full exhaust (FMF power core 4 and power bomb), air box door removed (why hack a perfectly good air box when all you gotta do is pop two pins back in, adjust programmer settings, and go water crossing/mudding), twin air filter with high flow cage and 14/51 gearing (makes a nice quick swap out for the warp 9 "X" wheels with 44 tooth rear). Here is the magic numbers I run for programmer settings at 1500 ft.
Box door off "X" set up   3-5-1.5-2-6-4 (2 value in the 4th mode moves the cruise setting to the idle area and all but eliminates the hesitation acceleration is crisp)
Box door on "R" set up   2-3-1-8-6-4  (8 value in 4th mode moves the cruise setting higher but uses less fuel and when in the dirt we tend to do a lot of throttle blipping (which tends to burden the lower rpm range).

And yes occasionally the dread cut/bog happens.......with either set up or bike.
A side note: two different years of bikes many km's difference and both make horrible engine noises since new.......lol. Some same, some different. As a poster somewhere out there said "noises like two skeletons screwing in a garbage can".
I just quit worrying...

These bikes rule!

ACDSWRR